Thanks for the info Fallman, I guess I'll just have to wait for some hot weather to really know if it will handle it.

Another problem that popped up is the overdrive button doesn't drop the tranny out of OD. I used to use that button all the time with the 3.slo just to get up a slight hill. At least I don't really need to drop out of OD anymore for that reason.

 

Something else i plan on doing but ran out of time to do before i left washington was add aftermarket oil coolers for Engine, Tranny, and Transfer Case. and put Oil Thermostats on them. there are a few great ones out there made by perma-cool and by another company. Summit has them both.

Anyway they opperate just like the thermostat in you coolant system they recirculate the oil till it reaches 160 degrees then it starts to open at 160 and is fully open at 180 or 170 depending on the thermostat. this allows shorter warm up times in cold weather. Once they are open they circulate oil thru the oil coolers.


About the tranny O/D thing i can probably chase that down next week. mine works fine. i know i used the 3.0 tranny, but the O/D is actually computer controlled so its going to be in the conversion harness. ill look around first of next week and get an answer on that.

What year is the swap.

 

2001 engine, tranny and ECU, the OD light on the dash is visable all the time, but its not fully lit. When I push the button and light gets brighter but only stays fully lit while the button is depressed. Unlike the 3.0 shifter, the 3.4 shifter uses a momentary switch for the OD, so it doesn't stay up or down. The tranny does not shift in or out of OD when the button is pressed.

The ORS harness didn't have a lead for the OD switch, but it was wired per the ORS instructions. There were 2 sets of instructions for the OD switch, one if the ORS conversion harness had a lead and one for if there wasn't a lead.

 

ill look it up tomorrow night today is kinda busy for me

 

Glad to hear you got it up and running, Dale.

 

Thanks guys, yeah there are still a lot of bugs to work out. This isn't as fun now, there are no instructions for bug hunting.

Getting the AC going is looking to be expensive, 2 quotes so far for just evac and recharge were around $200. Everyone I'm talking to so far thinks the system needs to also be flushed to remove the R-12 oil. Whoever that was that figured out away to swap the motor and leave the 3.0 AC system sealed is looking pretty smart right now.

 

hey goat. no need to flush the system just did this with mine and converted it to R134. all i did was change out the canister up front in the grill. thats where all the junk collects. then i blew out the whole system with compressed Air. changed the side plate on the 134 compressor so that my old 3.0 hoses would bolt up to the new pump. then i took it in and had it recharged. cost me $85 for the recharge. but it was a friend that did it for me. he also vacumed it before adding anything just to take the air out which was smart. but it blows cold cold it got down to 45 degrees in my cab with outside at 78

 

no custom hoses the way i did it

 

Ok thanks, but how did you blow out the system? I mean where did you open it up to blow air in and where did the air & oil come out?

Yeah ORS didn't provide any custom hoses for the AC. All the AC is the 3.0 system except the compressor.

 

yeah if you use the side plate off of the 3.0 compressor on the 3.4 compressor your hoses will work
and i blew out each componant seprately

i opened the hoses at the firewall and blew out the evaporator by it self then the condenser, then the hoses.

Did you swap the a/c Amplifier boards yet????

 

No. Why would I need to do that?

 

same reason for the tach signal thing. the 2 A/C amplifier boards operate differntly and and use a differnt signal from the computer. the 3.0 board wont kick off the A/C under certian conditions when it should because. its not getting the signal from the Computer.

check out seans post at pirate on page 3 again its one of the last things on there right under the tach mod.

 

Yeah I've seen Sean's write-up, but I guess I thought he was wrong. ORS didn't say to use it. So what happens if you don't use it?

 

Actually there is very little on the AC part with the ORS instructions, and I don't think ORS's in-shop conversions (done in the Denver area) are usually concerned with AC because of the cooler temps there. So it could be that ORS instructions are incomplete. There seems to be as many different opinions as there are people you ask with this whole AC setup. I'm getting a little frustrated and confused with it.

When I look at the 93 FSM AC system circuit: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf

There are all kinds of things in that circuit Why can't I just have an on-off switch for the thing. I get hot I turn it on. I mean what the hell does the tail light control relay have to do with the AC?

 

Ill ask mike on monday what their take on that is. i have to go back over to ORS anyway to pick up a bracket for my truck. From my understanding it will work the way it is but it wont turn off if the engine is lugging down to much like at idle with a/c on. and possible a few other issues like it possibly wont shut off automatically when engine temps get to high. But like i said i will ask Mike on Monday

The switch over to a newer a/c amplifier is pretty simple i wired it up myself too. if you want i can scrounge around here in denver this week and probably come up with the parts and wire it up so all you have to do is pull your parts and plug the new one in.

Im just telling you what i found when i researched the swap out and what i did to make it work. I couldnt afford not to have the a/c when i was Moving 1200 miles with a wife that was 7 1/2 months preg. She would have SHOT ME.

the other reason that they may or may not be concerned about it is the fact that it has nothing to do with the engine running. seems thats their view cause when i asked about the tach mod they just shook their heads and said we dont know we have only done 1 of those. Same thing with water injection on supercharged 3.4. Seems they prefer to keep it simple. which i can understand totally. but it would be nice if they supported that a bit more.

 

That is just for the dash lights, like the one behind the a/c control panel

 

Yeah I'll have a bunch of questions for Mike tommorrow myself. I knew about the tach mod before I bought the kit, (the tach mod works great BTW) but they said the conversion kit was complete and everything else would work.

Thanks Jason, that makes sense about the AC dash light.

Thanks to Jason sending me the EWD and helping me read some of the symbols I think I've figured out why the overdrive button doesn't work. It doesn't appear ORS converion harness connects it up to the ECU. There are 2 wires that don't connect together like they should. The botton to the ECU and the ECU to the dash light.

 

I keep going back to what Sean said about the AC so I'm going to quote him from the Pirate board: When I'm looking at the 3VZ EWD together with the 5VZ EWD it looks like to me both AC amps recieve a positive signal from the ECU. Oops, I do see where the 3.0 amp receives a neg signal from the 3.0 igniter (which is no longer on my truck). I guess that could be a problem (unless Mike has worked that out with his conversion harness already).

 

I found that the wire going from the 3.0 igniter to the AC amp also goes to the tachometer. Since the ORS harness was wired to run the tach maybe Mike has also wired the AC amp too. I would rather not use the 3.4 AC amp, even though I have one on the donor truck. I'm still thinking about rebuilding that donor truck sometime and any parts off of it would then need to be replaced.

 

ill put up how i ran my wires tomorow for that part. and maybe a few pictures if i feel like tearing my dash apart to get to them