just becareful with pure water or higher percentages both my old 3.0 and this 3.4 someone filled with water and they now have rust problems. toyota engines dont seem to like straight water. havent seeen this happen in any other engine. but anyway

 

Yeah I don't think you ever want to go less than about 30% antifreeze.

When I raised the center bearing the driveshaft was slightly rubbing the top of the center bearing support (made a hell of a racket under high torque at low speeds):


So off it came to clearance that. I used a cutoff wheel and a grinder to remove enough metal to provide some room. I think it's important to keep the cuts as rounded and smooth as possible to prevent a stress crack from getting started. And of course only cut as much as absolutely nessesary.


Here's the way the bearing sits, with a very thick washer and the nut and flipping the bearing, it is about 5/8" higher now. That alone took care of about 95% of the vibration.


I had to get some longer bolts for it, and also put extra nuts on the top just in case that welded nut was to break loose later.


To try to get rid of the remaining 5% vib I lowered the transmission 1/2" to help some more with the driveshaft angle.

 

Dale,

You might want to use plate spacer in there as anything you hit will shove that cross member up and put dents where those nuts are.

 

Yeah I hadn't thought of that. I'll keep an eye on it, thanks. I never hit my stock crossmember though, and it was lower than this one.

 

Really???

either you watch it like hell or something cause i end up dragging mine across all kinds of things, stumps, gravel piles, rocks, wish i could get it up higher.

 

How high off the ground is your's? My Budbuilt skid plate is 20" off the ground now at it's lowest spot and where it bolts to the frame is 23". Yeah I'll probably hit it now that I got rid of that stock tin-can skid plate that covered the t-case. I usually try to put my tires on the big rocks and not straddle them. Maybe you're finding some harder trails than I am? Do you hit your drive shaft too?

 

never really hit the drive shaft ive drug the whole T/Case drop part thru stuff lots of times after coming to the crest of a hill and then droping down the other side. our trucks have such a long wheel base.

im also using the stock cross member. so yeah a bit low

 

I've been getting a PO420 CEL about every other time I drive the truck, so I'll be putting on the URD O2 simulator. I refuse to put 2 cats on a 93 truck The EPA should be happy I even put one new cat on.


$60, I hear you can build one for about $20 worth of parts from radio shack, but it's nice to have the URD vehicle specific install instructions that tell you what color wire and ECU pin# the box connects to. I'll just be using it for off-road use of course

Luckly that is the only CEL I've gotten, and I'm using the 3.0 evap can, hehe.

 

How goes the battle with the cooling system? I need to take a look at my coolant temps with my OBD tool to give us a comparison...

 

Yes that would help a lot Brian. I've been chating with Josh (tacohell) in PMs, he has a 5VZFE with an e-fan about 90 miles down the road. He checked his OBDII temps and his fan doesn't even kick on until the temps are up to 207-212 area. He has the same DCC controller as I do and the setting are about the same. But he does have a 180 deg T-stat.

Right now I'm trying to figure out the transfer case oil leak, it is definately coming from the shifter seat area on the rear case.

 

Well yesterday was a good day as I got some bugs fixed.

After lowering the tranny 1/2" and test driving there is no more drive line vib, it runs smooth as glass now.

After talking with Mike @ ORS quite a while about the transfer case leak it seems this is not a very common problem and I may have caused the problem myself by packing grease around the shifter ball. The gear driven transfer cases are new to me and I learned from Mike that the only breather vent for the gear driven t-cases to vent air as it heats up is through the shifter holes. When I packed grease around the ball and socket of the shifters I must have sealed up the breather on one or both. Appearantly I had sealed the front case better than the rear case because there was no leaking from the front case. My theory goes like this: When I sealed up the front case breather and was driving at highway speeds the air pressure was building in the front case and it pushed gear oil though the bearings into the rear case. There is a sharing of oil between the two cases. That overfilled the rear case with oil and caused it to blow out the top shifter hole breather vent which was breathing for both cases.

After taking all the shifters out and washing all the grease out in a parts washer, putting it back together and test driving on the highway the leak is gone or at least slowed down so much I can't see a leak yet.

Hats off to Mike for helping me with this problem even though it was Marlin Crawler that sold me the dual cases and had nothing to do with ORS kit. Marlin's customer service has really been the pits lately, repeated attempts to call them only resulted in no answer or a voice message saying to call back later. I know the loss of Deano has been a big blow to them (rest in peace Deano) but someone there needs to step up and handle things

The O2 simulator is about halfway installed before I had to pull myself away and called it a night.

The repair on the ORS wirning harness to fix the OD on/off botton is done, Mike's instructions were very easy to follow on the fix. It basicly was cutting one wire on his harness and splicing it to another wire on his harness. The only thing that made it tricky was most of the ORS harness uses one or two colors of wire, but he provided me with the pin #s and pic of the plug involed. Haven't tested the fix out yet though, hope that works.

I also ran a test on the E-fan. On the highway running with the cruise set at 70mph and the coolant temp at 192, I switched off the fan and within a min or so the temps went up to 202 before I decided to stop the test. This was on a nice 70 deg day. If the fan running at highway speeds will make the engine run even 10 deg cooler I think I'll let it run. It may be next summer before I really know if this fan will do the job or not.

I was also having a laptop computer problem that I figured out. The FTC and OBDII reader both need a serial cable to connect to. For tuning they both need to be connected at the same time, but my laptop only has one serial port. URD had provided me with a USB to serial adaptor cable, but it wouldn't work after hours of trying everything and talking to Gadget. Gadget couldn't help and suggested I ask in the off-topic section of TTORA, which I did. Rather than repeat it all again here's the link for those interested in how I solved that: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ad.php?t=48388

 

My supercharged 3.4 runner only gets to 202 in the summer in stop and go traffic. I do have a stick though. I never did check it on a day over a 100 though (you guys had 30 of those this year?). I have an aftermarket replacement radiator, stock fan shroud, 3.0 fan, 3.4 clutch. My fan clutch locks up a lot at idle in 80+ weather. The only time I notice it on the highway was when I was towin my 2 quads up I-70 at 80 MPH.

Does it feel like you are in torque converter lockup on the highway?

Have you though about an additional tranny cooler? to reduce the heat load on the radiator, must be on the front side of the flow.

 

Hummm, that's interesting Mud. Thanks for the info, I guess that was measured with the OBDII? Do you have a hole in the hood?

I feel like the TC is locked up (with the valve body upgrade I don't think it slips much anymore), I have two extra ATF coolers and the ATF is running a cool 160 now right (measured before the coolers) . Although I have thought about bypassing the radiator ATF cooler altogether. Right now if my ATF is running 160 into the radiator it could actually be cooling the coolant unstead of the coolant cooling the ATF.

 

I did notice yesterday that I'm running a nice and cool 185 in stop and go traffic and the fan slows way down. I think it is a trade off with a very tight fitting fan shroud, if you want the best cooling at slow speeds it helps a lot, if you want the best cooling at highway speeds it would be best to not have a shroud at all.

 

Yea, I have a giant hole. Didn't even think about that before i posted. Obviously I have lots of airflow now. I have a OBD-2 scaner that hooks to my plam.

so you have confirmed you direction of flow to be through the cooler then to the radiatior(oil flow)? I've seen this overheat a 3.0 on occasion

I recall that some of the auto tacos I drive run around 205 on the data list. Next time I drive on at work I'll run the scan tool on it

 

Is this your truck?


No it goes from the tranny to the radiator cooler then the extra coolers.

Thanks that would be helpful.

 

Yes that is my truck, where did that picture come from?

you might try the coolers in the other direction, see if this helps with coolant temperature.

I did some driving on mine today, ambient temp 70 max temp was 198, withing 8 of my 190 t-stat. You said you were running a 180? I've been thinking of going that route when I get my 318 injectors and pulley.

Anyways, i would not be concerned with 202 as long as your fans are running strong, though you should be lower with a 180 t-stat

Brian

 

I'm the guy that ask to take pics of your truck at the chalkcreek campground in 2005 when the Yotatech group was there (Co4RJ05). I got a bunch of your engine bay too.

 

I have the URD (Napa) 170 deg t-stat.

 

Dale.... I still think its odd that your warmer at hwy speeds... I think it has more to do with water flow speeds than tight fitting shroud. Even thou the shroud may limit flow, its still a ton of flow.. at it really doesnt limit it that much, it will actually make it flow faster when it hits the engine, kinda a jet effect. You also have all the air flow around the engine increased. I would still wager a guess that the radiator is semi clogged and that at higer water speeds (higher rpm) it cant cool enough.. One way to test is to run your idle up to hwy rpm at when stopped in traffic and see what happens... I still dont think the fan should ever have to run at 60mph.