Talked to Mike @ ORS and his harness is wired to use the 3.0 AC amp, so that's a relief. There was a mistake with his harness for the auto OD button and he's going to help me with that.

Got the wideband A/F sensor installed beside the front O2 sensor:


I made a copper heat sink for it because the instructions said it was nessesary if the wide band probe threads got up to 900 deg F. My EGTs have been running about 1300-1400 deg F so I figure the wide band probe may be seeing 900 easy.

I found a good place to do driveline work in OKC, Blumenthal drivelines. Their shop is very clean:


Here's their welding room:


Larry, the owner has a rock crawling rig:


I got the rear shaft shorten about 8 inches and balanced for about $60. Here it is going on, I love that tranny jack adapter:


I have a bit of vibration with the rear shaft and after talking to Larry he said this is the problem:


The angle from the T-case to the center bearing is too extreme. So today I raised the center bearing support about 5/8 of an inch by putting the bearing on top of the bracket unstead of under it and using a spacer. That helped a lot but I may also lower the tranny just a fraction too.

I also found a good place (Auto Air of OKla.) to do the AC conversion. $170 and they said they would blow out the system, evac and recharge with oil. They seemed to be confident that would be all that was needed.

 

Good Night why is your angle so extreme???

 

It's because of the dual cases and drivetrain lift (5/8"). The output flange has been moved back 8.5" with the dual cases, V6 adapter and 3.4 tranny swap, and I think the gear driven t-case output may be higher too. And the Budbuilt crossmember I got raised the drivetrain 1" although I lowered it 3/8" when I made the bracket for it.

Here's the output angle, it's not real bad, but enough to have a vib:


The Marlin Crawler has been a real PITA, I hope it's worth it with all the problems involed with it. It also has a big gear oil leak somewhere at the top at highway speeds. They haven't been answering their phones again, so I haven't been able to talk to Marlin about that.

 

Dude, you have to knock on wood after saying stuff like that! I don't want to be right!

Anyway, I would mess around with the controller first; you have the DCC variable controller, right? What temperature do you have it set to right now? Try turning the temperature on the controller up 14 degrees (use one of the jumpers, as shown in the instructions) and go drive around. If the coolant temperature goes up 14 degrees as well, that COULD mean you have an undersized fan/radiator for your application... but if the temps change just a little, it could be that the fan is going like crazy aiming for a temperature it can't reach when fighting the opening/closing of the thermostat, so just ends up going full blast all of the time (in which case you might need to go to an even colder themostat). Do you have the linear indicator for the controller? Are you able to turn off the fan on the highway (some sort of manual switch) to see if that changes anything?

It's strange to me that it runs hottest on the highway, perhaps some sort of blockage, either on the radiator or in the lines? Running hotter on the highway tells me the radiator is undersized, because that's when you have the most air running though it...

Also: where is your controller sensor located? Is it nice and close to the coolant return to the engine? When putting mine in, I basically warmed up my engine, felt for the coldest spot on the radiator I could find (right next to the coolant return, bottom-left side of the radiator if you're looking at it from the back.

We'll make this cooling system work yet...

 

Hey Brian, yes it's a DCC controller and it's set on the 173 deg F jumpers/ with a 170 deg thermostat. And yes I have the linear LED indicator for it, that's how I know it's running near high speed at highway speeds, because the LED stays in the red on the highway. The LED starts to change from green to red when the OBDII readout shows a coolant temp of about 185 degs.

The location of the controller probe is in the radiator fins about where the yellow spot is in this pic (close to the return line):


So far the hottest coolant temp I've seen from the OBDII readout is 203 deg, but the weather isn't getting above 80 right now either. If I was just going by the dash gauge everything would look fine.

 

Its interesting that hwy is the worst since you have the best flow. The fan shouldnt ever have to run about 30mph.. it doesnt blow as much air as the rig moving does... I would think that your spining the water pump too fast at those rpms and the coolant cant cool.. are you running the stock h20 pump? If so.. that could be where the radiator is undersized...

Really should a 3.4 take that much more to cool than a 3.0?

 

Brian suggested some good tests to do and I also haven't begun tuning yet, all though the URD preloaded tuning seems to be pretty good. A/F ratio at wide open throttle is around 10 and I haven't heard any pinging. The only scarey thing is the EGT temps go up fast and hover between 1300 and 1400 deg F just crusing on the highway without boost (A/F is pretty much stuck around 14.7 crusing without boost), is that were it is suppost to be?

 

I'm pretty sure that's right. I think you can only alter the A/F in open loop (WOT)? Anyway that's where my SC'd 3rz with URD fuel kits sits when cruising without boost. I'd like to know as well

 

Well, it sounds like you'll need some tuning, but that's to be expected

The 14.7AFR is "perfect" mixture, in that it burns as little fuel as possible... That's the ratio your engine will aim for while cruising to maximize fuel economy. You'll probably want it to be about 13:1 or 12:1 for boost conditions (according to Gadget, 12:1 is the perfect AFR before you start losing power and spiking your EGTs, 12:1 is what you'll want for WOT when the ECU goes into open loop). Your low-end torque will be better with a richer mixture as well. the 10:1 you're seeing under WOT right now is a little too rich, you'll have to back the fuel map off some up there. You'll be able to adjust you AFR when in closed loop by using your "fancy" AFR Ratio Sensor Calibrator, tell it when to kick in (probably an MAP value of 1 or 2 psi, it's programmable, yes?) and then adjust your fuel map until you have the AFR you are looking for at any given manifold pressure and rpm.

The EGT's sound pretty high for just cruising around, I think you'll need to crank up your WI apparatus to get some more methanol in there. 1450* should be the absolute max at WOT before you'll have to start worrying about melting pistons and cooking valves (at least this is what I have read). It could be you're running a little lean as well. I don't have an EGT gauge so I can't help you with "standard" values... perhaps Mark will chime in soon.

Also make sure to do the timing, go find a hill on the highway and try to induce ping while under boost, paying attention to where it occurs and then pull over, change the map, and start over again. You have the U-Tune guide also I assume, which will be quite useful. Have someone ride with you so you don't have to look at the laptop, they can pay attention to where the maps need to be changed.

 

I'm running the .9mm nozzle for the WI, I can only go one step larger to 1mm, but I will try that. I only just added the methanol for 50/50 mix, I was using straight distilled water. Yeah I may be running a little lean on parts of the mild boost map, but everything happens so fast when you put your foot into it. I'm also running 5.29 gears and I need some hills or something to slow me down.

I've never had the EGT go over 1400 though, even at wide open throttle. But you're right, 10 is pretty rich. I don't know why anyone would need injectors bigger than 318cc, unless you were running way more boost than 10 psi.

 

LOL, well Mark is running 370cc injectors now... but he's crazy

 

Oh well I forgot about the duty cycle factor, maybe I'm maxing mine out or something.

I do have the U-tune guide and I tried to bring up the FTC maps using the instructions on page 13 & 14 but I couldn't get them to come up. I'll have to try that again later.

 

Make sure and save the map as something when you first pull it off of the FTC, and then save the one you're messing with as something different. That way if you mess things up, you'll be able to go back to where you started...

Have you been able to confirm that your FTC and assorted additions have power?

 

Gotcha, yeah I'm not sure I would make it any better, I might make it worst. Did your maps come right up when you did it? I selected "file" and "new customer" and then saved that. Then opened it up but it didn't let me get to any of the options menu or maps menu. The only choices were file or help.

 

Hmm, did you try pressing the "Connect to ECU" button? You ignition was on I assume... The maps will be all zeros until you pull the ones off of the FTC by the way. The maps don't come directly up, I have to do "load customer" and then I do "connect to ECU," then I select fuel maps under the maps menu...

And don't worry, tuning will be quite easy with a WB O2 sensor and OBD-II Scan Tool.

 

Oh there is a button? I knew it was something so simple I was missing it. Like the first time I made a post on a forum I couldn't find the post button, LOL.

 

you know i wonder whether you custom shroud isnt limiting the air flow.
right now i have no shroud on my radiator just the stock 3.0 ducted fan. and my temp comes up just below middle of the stock gauge and sits doesnt matter whether im towing on the highway up a hill or putzing around town it doesnt move. Granted i dont have the supercharger hooked up yet. but i would expect some problems with my setup. since you are having some with a electric shrouded fan.

BTW the capacities differnce of both systems, the 3.4 Radiator and the 3.0 Radiator are with in a quart of each other. so i dont think our radiators are the problem if you look at the taco radiator its just shallower and wider then the 3.0 raditors..

 

Yeah I think you're right Fallman, at highway speeds the shroud cuts airflow through the radiator. But when the fan is running going slow it will help air flow through the radiator. But if I was just going by my factory gauge everything looks perfect, just like you "my temp comes up just below middle of the stock gauge and sits".

There is more testing to do before I can say I have a problem, just worried. 203 is far from overheated, and I'm not sure the fan is running at max, the linear LED turns from green to red as the fan is speeding up, but I'm not sure if its red at medium speed or not. As soon as I get the AC going I can do some testing on that because the fan will automaticly go to 50% speed when the AC is turned on even if the engine is cold. So I can flip it on and see what color the LED is at 50%.

Also the DCC temp probe is probably not in a good spot as far as seeing the cooling from air blowing through the rad at highway speeds with my custom shroud. So the test Brian suggested (turning off the fan @ highway speed and see what happens to the temp) will tell if the probe needs to be moved or not. I can do that test easy with my cut off switch.

 

Another thought.... what % coolant are you running... higher %age have cold freezing points and higher boiling points but also hold heat longer than pure water. So if you dont need the freezing protection a 60/40 h20/coolant mixture will cool down quicker in the radiator....

 

Good point John. I'm using 50-50 mix right now, but I did add a bottle of water wetter when I filled it up. Yeah in the summer I could go to more %water if there is a problem.