mt_goat

Here's the whole reason I wanted the ABS stuff out of the way:

The WI pump has landed in place

mt_goat

Here's the test fit of the Taurus 2 speed fan:


The shroud I made came was hitting the steering gear box, so I had to do a little grinding on the shroud to get some clearance:


Here's the backside of the shroud:


The controller is a Delta Current Control (DCC) FK35:
http://www.dccontrol.com/0820.htm
The nice thing about this controller is it is variable speed, rather than cycling on & off it will only spin the fan fast enough to keep below the temp setting. That gives it a soft start and less overall power drain on the alternator as well as keeping the engine at a more constant temp equilibrium.

I wired the DCC controller to the high speed wire of the Taurus fan motor since it will automaticlly slow the speed down when needed.

The slow speed wire of the fan motor I hooked up to a competely seperate power system so it can be used as a back-up if the DCC system fails.

With this "on-off-on" switch:

I can go from the DCC controller to the backup with the flip of a switch. The "off" setting can be used for deep water crossings to keep water from damaging the fan or throwing water up into the intake.

Edit:Just found out from Brian @ DCC the proper way to bypass the DCC controller for deep water crossings is to switch the small yellow controller input wire from 12 volt "+" to "ground". http://www.dccontrol.com/circuits.htm

I had mistakenly wired it to switch off the 12 volt positive to the main fan input (big 10 gauge wire) through a 40 amp relay, but Brian informed me that the controller needs to have the main input connected while the controller is running since it uses active switching to clamp the flyback voltage of the fan. I guess the fan is kind of like a little generator and sends a reverse voltage back though the system. In Brian's words: "What happens is that when you turn the voltage off on a motor is that it will generate a very high reverse voltage. The controller clamps this to ground byway of an active switch. If there's no voltage to the circuit board, the switch can't be activated."

Brian @ DCC has been very helpful and quickly answered many e-mails of my stupid questions.

mt_goat

Because the swap moves the battery to the other side of the engine bay, I am upgrading the wiring that goes from the battery to the fusebox, from the fusebox to the alt, and from the battery to the body ground.

In the first case from the battery to the fusebox, this must be done since the battery is now moved 4 feet farther away. The factory wire looks to be about 8 gauge, I went with 4 gauge welding cable here (note: I am keeping a fuseable link at the battery end of this wire like the Toyota engineers do).

The factory wire from the alt to the fusebox looks to be 8 gauge too, and rather than ripping out a perfectly good 8 gauge wire (which BTW has other wires spliced into it and is neatly tucked away in a harness) I decided it would be much easier to run a 2nd 8 gauge wire parallel to it. I discovered if you take the bottom of the fusebox off you can add the 2nd wire to the screw post and that way you don't have to splice into the original wire. I did the same thing at the alt screw post:


The ground wire upgrade I have used several 8 gauge wires for redundancy.

Here's where all that comes to a head, the new battery area:

Two of those cables are for the winch, one is Roger Brown's headlight harness upgrade, one is the original harness. Hard to keep it all looking neat but at least everything is protected with flextubing. Believe it or not the overflow bottle still fits between the battery and all that wire. Anyone know if those headlights get hot enough to melt flextubing?

mt_goat

I cleared a few hurdles the last few weeks.

The donor engine coming out:


The 3.4 engine for some reason doesn't come with a passenger side lift hook, so I took the one off the 3.0 and drilled a new hole and used it:


This had me worried for a long time so I'm really glad to be done with it, drilling a new dip stick hole through 2 inches of solid cast iron:

BTW it took about 3 hours of drilling and a half day of running around buying tools. I used a right angle drill, although maybe a regular drill would work if you remove the exhaust manifold. This doesn't have to be done on the 99 and earlier 3.4 engines.

The dip stick tube adapter in place:

This was included in the ORS conversion kit as well as a tap and plug to plug the old dip stick hole.

The oil pan has to be changed on this swap and that means the oil strainer also gets changed. Here's the new one from ORS in place now:


I got the valve body out of the tranny before I removed it from the donor truck, here what that looks like before I shipped it off to IPT for the upgrade:


To keep the tranny cool here's the ATF coolers in place now and plumbed up: EDIT: I have now removed these from that location, there was too much extra stress on the cooling system from the reduced air flow to the radiator and the extra heat placed in front of the radiator. The tranny just has one cooler now and it runs nice and cool. Removing these two ATF coolers lowered the radiator temps about 10 degrees.

Tragic Drive

:bounce2:
Unbelievable attention to detail. You will absolutley love this this truck when you are driving it.

Attention Mods: Here is my nomination for truck of the month hands down.

,Thomas

mt_goat

Wow, thanks! I hope so

PS: I think the truck of the month has to have an engine in it doesn't it LOL.

AH64ID

I dont think he said WHAT month :pat: :pat:

Looking good, kinda making me wish I hadnt sold the motor I bought a few years back, but...

mt_goat

Yeah give me another month, should at least have the engine in by then. Of course it will never be done.

Tragic Drive

Giterdone you old goat I have no patience

,Thomas

mt_goat

Yeah that's what my wife keeps saying But it's hard to rush a labor of love.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

How the hell have I missed this thread?

You never are "done" w/ modding...only plateau'd for a time.

mt_goat

Hey Wabbit, yeah I'll never be done, after the swap I need sliders and a custom rear bumper.

04 Rocko Taco

Hows that trans cooler look, do you have them in yet? Keep me posted on updates on these tranny coolers, I have had tranny coolers on race cars before, and have thought about one for the truck. Keep me posted!!

mt_goat

Yeah, got them in too, they are mounted between the radiator and AC condensor, but in this pic the radiator and engine are out of the truck.


About half of the coolers are actually below the AC condensor.

EDIT: I have now removed these from that location, there was too much extra stress on the cooling system from the reduced air flow to the radiator and the extra heat placed in front of the radiator. The tranny just has one cooler now and it runs nice and cool. Removing these two ATF coolers lowered the radiator temps about 10 degrees.

mt_goat

Hey Thomas, I got one of those 90 deg fittings but it doesn't have the clearance to screw into the SC because of the shape of the SC around the boost port. How did you do that?

Tragic Drive

Dale ,
This wont be much help but to answer your question the fitting screwed into the port without any modifications. The fitting I used is a 90 degree MPT that is used in a lot of pneumatic HVAC controls.
Do you have the 2nd gen Charger ?
,Thomas

mt_goat

Thanks, I found a different 90 at Ace hardware with a longer shaft before the bend and it screwed in ok. So I'm set now. Did you put the fuel pressure regulator line on that boost port?

Tragic Drive

I'm glad you were able to get the fitting you needed .Did your original fitting rub on the heater hose like mine?
The boost port is hooked up to my fuel pressure regulator. I followed the 96 4Runner vaccum diagrams in the TRD charger install guide. I also thought it was the fmu mod but I'm not sure on that.
If you are still using your 4x4 vsv's let me know what port you are using currently I have those also hooked up to the boost port as well and I think I want to use a vaccum port only. I havn't tried my 4 wheel out yet since the charger has been installed. :pat:

,Thomas

mt_goat

Don't know my engine is still on an engine stand. Almost ready to drop it in.

I think you're right.

I've done away with the ADD, I'm cocked, locked and ready to rock

mt_goat

Well I got the supercharger on, along with some URD goodies:


And got some detailing done on the engine:


URD injectors in place:


This hurt but I had to cut the stock injector plugs off:


To do a good job of soldering on the new injector plugs I removed the engine harness and cut it open:


But a little electrical tape puts it back together again: