rimpainter.com

Dude! Where did you get that dual pod? Sorry if I missed it in your thread, I just clicked the pic in this link.

I am due for an EGT guage and I was looking for places I could mount it and I saw where you put this pod - I like it!

Thanks!

mt_goat

Hey Christian, I found out about them over here: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57443
It's made by Perrin, kind of pricey, but I found one on ebay one day for $65 and snapped it up.

AH64ID

Out of curiosity, I might have missed it, why run a EGT on a gas engine, and A/F with, I presume, a stock ECU? I personally like having all the info I can get, but those are an odd gauge to have...

mt_goat

It is a stock 3.4 ECU but with URD's Fuel kit, FTC and A/F ratio calabrator running interference (basicly fooling the ECU), that makes it possible to tune the A/F ratio. The EGT gauge is to help make sure there aren't dangerious exhaust temps, something that is very possible with a supercharged engine.

mt_goat

Got the tach fix done, with help from Sean @ TLT (on page 3 on the FAQs on Pirate).

Before:


After 10K ohm resistor soldered in place:


I found it interesting that there is already a resistor soldered between the same contacts on the front side of the tach. So now, if I did this tach fix right, there are two resistors in parallel. Any EEs out there know how that works? I'm thinking that the resistor with the lowest resistance will take more of the current flow. BTW I've heard that this same fix works on the 4 cyl to 3.4 swap too.

AH64ID

Gotcha!

Tragic Drive

Lookin good MT goat.

Ive done the 3.4 supercharger swap and have only had one small problem. The boost port fitting on the back of the charger is a straight MPT fitting. I would recomend using a 90 degree fitting before you put your charger on ( lot easier to access).
Here is why in the 2nd gen Runner our heater controls really get in the way of the 3.4 swap (2" body lift on mine). The boost port fitting rubs on the hot water lines, at least in mine I had this problem. Actualy ripped some air lines easy fix though.
I cant wait to see your truck and some engine pics.

mt_goat

Great tip! Thanks. Can you find those at the hardware store?

Tragic Drive

You should be able to find the fitting localy. If you can't I have a few of them around I can send one your way.

,Thomas

hektikwon

Hey Tragicdive, what kind on exhaust did you get put on. I just got a Magnaflow Cat and Muffler put on and I'm supposed to pick up my truck tomorrow. Also did you switch out you fuel filter with a 3.4 filter and if so did it go in on the 3.0 fittings. Gotta love the 5vz

mt_goat

That is an interesting question. I've never heard of anyone doing that, but if the 3.4 filter is bigger and would fit in between the same fuel lines I'd look in to it. I'm getting ready to replace the fuel filter anyway so I'd like to know too.

mt_goat

Thanks Thomas, I appreciate your offer. I'll look for one at Ace or Lowes first.

Injohneer

You know I'm an ME like you, but I do remember this from my Physics and Circiuts classes.
You have the same voltage drop across both resistors (since they go from/to the same pins) so yes, less resistance = more current, but you also have to remember that by putting in two resistors, you're making two paths for the current to flow through (less total resistance). So with the two resistors in || you have less resistance, less voltage drop, higher volts output.

Forgive my ignorance on the tach fix, what is the problem that you're trying to get rid of?

I know that some of the guages on our aircraft simulators are linear (-10V to 10V one one input = full range of needle) and some use a sine/cosine needle driver (the sine and cosine of the physical angle we want the needle to point to are sent to the guage, where they are manipulated w/ firmware).
For the linear guage, a different voltage (higher) would result in a different reading (higher).
For the sine/cosine guage, when we drive the needle with less voltage it goes to roughly the same place but slower (dampened). If you're trying to hold the needle horizontal, a low voltage signal may be too weak to support the weight of the needle (which is pretty small, btw!)

mt_goat

That really is a good question and I don't know. I've been told by people that have done this swap already that it needs to be done for the 3.0 tach to work with the 3.4 engine so I'm just blindly following on this one. Thanks for the explaination, makes sence to me.

Tragic Drive

[QUOTE=mt_goat][QUOTE=Injohneer]

Forgive my ignorance on the tach fix, what is the problem that you're trying to get rid of?

I remember reading on 4x4 wire the exact reason why it works. I was fine with the answer and tried it and yes it works perfect. I've compared my tach to the readings on my scanner hooked to the ecu and they were dead on. I also have the resistor on top of the gauge like you.



hektikwon,
I originaly used a Magnaflow 14" 2.5 in and out and it was very loud. Carsound cat , Downey headers, flex pipe, and ball socket connections. I've since put on the most quiet muffler I could find. All you can hear now is the whine of the charger(the way I like it). However performance did take a hit with the change in muffler.



Fuel filter question ? Well I'm still using the one from my 3.0 and I dont seem to be having any problems . However mine needs to be changed as well 170k miles on it .This will be addressed with the URD fuel upgrades.

MT Goat,
you need to give us some pics of your swap. I cant wait to see a Blown and misted 3.4 in a 92 Runner. Giterdone

`Thomas

hektikwon

I finally got my 2 1/4 magnaflow cat and muffler put on. I went with the 18/24 muffler and I'm liking the sound. I can definately tell there's a boost in HP. I had changed my fual filter not to long ago and just wasn't sure if I needed to upgrade or if that was just for the supercharger.

mt_goat

It's been going a little slow the last week or 2. Been doing a lot of wiring and aside from the horrible mess the so called "pro" stereo installers left behind 13 years ago there hasn't been much picture worthy. This is the type of thing they did, it is the most elaborate butt connecter I've ever seen because all this mass of wires did was connect 2 wires together:


They had wires running all over the cab that went no where. Some had been cut and spliced and then cut again and then spliced again. The ones that really bothered me were the amp power and ground wires had 2 or 3 crimp-on butt connecters just inches apart.

I got the gauges, rock lights, air horns, e-fan controller and 6 switches, 4 LEDs and 5 relays wired up. Also cleaned up and rewired the stereo system.

Getting ready to pull out the rear wheel ABS actuator to make a dandy spot for the water injection pump. I found the part number for the factory brake line used on the non-ABS models and it looks like it will do the conversion cleaner and safer then the flex line I had ordered from Summit.

Tragic Drive

3.0 filter # 23300 65020
3.4 Filter# 23300 62030

My Dealer (buddy) says their is no difference in size or volume (visual) other than the better guard on the 3.0 filter.

You should be fine with your 3.0 filter on a supercharged motor.
I hope this answers some questions.

mt_goat,
Here is another tip for you I used an oil dipstick and tube from a 96,97 3.4 T100. IT worked perfectly I had to remove about an inch from the tube and then re-flare the top of it . The 3.0 dipstick tube does not have the same mounting locations and doesnt read correct the 3.4 T100 will.

mt_goat

Cool, thanks others may need that info about the dipstick. My ORS conversion kit came with new dipsticks and tubes.

mt_goat

I got the ABS actuator out, glad to get this mess out:


I decided to go with a stock OEM brake line from a non-abs ext-cab:

Relacing one brake line completely converts the abs to the same as the non-abs model.

In case you ever wondered, to replace a brake line going to the rear you have to move the gas tank over a few inches and remove the fuel filter. Well my fuel filter line nuts finally rounded off so bad they died and when to hell so as long as the tranny and gas tank are out of the way what a good time to replace the fuel lines and fuel filter. BTW a tranny jack works great for moving the gas tank over (as long as your drive shaft is out of the way too):