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FWIW, I have an 84 22R base pickup it has a 60 amp in the position where RAD4's 80 amp is - CORRECTION I should have said where RAD4's green block fuse is. I would image because there is no EFI on my truck. See pic below.
AHH! Thanks for confirming that there is no 80-Amp FL module on the 84 and saving the P.O.'s honor - LOL!
OK, so IF we could not get a schematic for your 84 trucks, I would have to say "the logical way it should be wired" would be (taking the 80-Amp module out of the schematic).
On side of 30-Amp fuse, one side of the 40-Amp fuse, AND "B" (alt to batt wire) ALL connected together.
All above connect to one end of the FL wire.
The other end of the FL wire goes to batt. pos.
Should look like this, but without the 80-Amp module:
Power side of 30-Amp fuse, power side of 40-amp fuse, Alt-to-batt wire all tightly connected to plate with ring terminals and screws.
O.P., check that tap that you showed us. It may already be correct. Just need to clean wires and make sure crimp is solid. Ideal is to have a terminal strip / plate / block like I showed above.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-05-2018 at 12:03 PM.
From RAD4’s picture the 80 amp block fuse is in a position where a “Glow” block fuse might be. So something may have changed. BUT, the decal on my box cover may not be correct as it shows block fuses (Glow & Diesel) where there are none on my 22R.
My fusible link wire goes up under the box and seems to only be one wire. But I have not opened the box to see any further. The other end of the FL attaches to the positive battery cable. This summer I replaced my FL as part of upgrading to utilizing a starter relay in my system – helped along with assistance from Ray.[/QUOTE]
Very interesting, my fuse box cover says the same as yours but it was hand written in, if you ever get to remove the fuse box I would be interested to see what your fusible link wire is attached too and how.
I hope other people that have a 84 base cab would chime in and show how there fuse box is wired. RAD4 has all the brains on wiring these and I respect his input, and I'm planning on using his experence to help me re-wire my truck in the near future, maybe he can take a trip to beautiful Utah
I'm thinking to run all new harness's taking the old ones and duplicating them with new wires what I need is a place to find the connectors and plugs to complete it rather then have to splice into the connectors to maintain the correct plugs. Any places to look for these original plugs/connectors?
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-05-2018 at 12:59 PM.
Yes, beautiful country! Was there but not close enough.
...I'm thinking to run all new harness's taking the old ones and duplicating them with new wires what I need is a place to find the connectors and plugs to complete it rather then have to splice into the connectors to maintain the correct plugs. Any places to look for these original plugs/connectors?
No need to replace all. Just inspect first. Then find the correct schematic (or use our best educated guess above), and re-wire according to that.
I suggest getting an 80-watt soldering iron for the thick wires.
I searched a while ago for an 84 FSM online but no dice. I have an 85 but it too seems to be different than the 84.
I found a 1983 FSM .pdf and it offers no help mostly because it seems as if the trucks before 1984 did not have a relay/fuse box under the hood where ours is. A few pics here in the pre-84 buildup section seem to confirm that. This kind of explains why the 84s and 85s have a separate tech section – we seem to be a bit different than the “others”.
Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah
if you ever get to remove the fuse box I would be interested to see what your fusible link wire is attached too and how.
Out of curiosity I started to see if I could simply undo the clips that hold the fuse box together. The first clip snapped off so I stopped. Plastic and Arizona are not the best of friends.
I did find out something via my Haynes wiring diagram. The AM1 circuit that has the FL is shown with 2 different block fuse options.
A 60 amp block fuse was on trucks with a 55 amp alternator.
A 80 amp block fuse was on trucks with a 60 amp alternator.
This kind of explains why the 84s and 85s have a separate tech section – we seem to be a bit different than the “others”.
I was told that a lot LOL
Out of curiosity I started to see if I could simply undo the clips that hold the fuse box together. The first clip snapped off so I stopped. Plastic and Arizona are not the best of friends.
Sorry you broke off the clip, didn't mean for that to happen.I
Did Toy change these within the model year? I do know that the 84-85 are "different" then the 86-88 which they all combine as "the same" Still hoping that some more 84 owners will jump in with there knowledge.
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-05-2018 at 04:36 PM.
Sorry you broke off the clip, didn't mean for that to happen. Did Toy change these within the model year?
Allow me to clarify, there are 3 screws/bolts that mount the whole fuse/relay box to the fender. The box itself has a cover that clips on. Also the box can be opened by undoing clips (about 6 of them). Look closer and you should see what I mean.
Allow me to clarify, there are 3 screws/bolts that mount the whole fuse/relay box to the fender. The box itself has a cover that clips on. Also the box can be opened by undoing clips (about 6 of them). Look closer and you should see what I mean.
Ok mine has 3 bolts to the fender, then 4 plastic clips that hold on the top cover and then under the box 4 more clips that hold the bottom cover.
What Rad4 said now makes sense to me 1 red from 30 amp, 1 red from 60 amp and the white wire from where? Note all 3 wires are from inside the fuse box, here's a pic:
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-05-2018 at 06:28 PM.
What Rad4 said now makes sense to me 1 red from 30 amp, 1 red from 40 amp and the white wire from where? Note all 3 wires are from inside the fuse box, here's a pic:
I sure do think that is what mine looks/looked like when I had to clean it up from corrosion. Especially that metal band that holds the 3 wires into 1 together. I'll attach a cropped version of you pic for clarity. The band I'm referring to is at the bottom of the pic. I'll try to get a pic of mine tomorrow.
So what, you saying that what we have is correct? Oh man, sorry PO, LOL
So if i'm going to fix this I will add a steel plate to fit in the space in the fuse box, drill and tap it, add the 3 wires to it and then get a new 80 amp fusible link to come off that and go to the battery. Is that what I should get, an 80 amp fusible link?
Another thing, how do you check the 30 amp and 60 amp squares in the fuse box, do they pull out? Haven't tried, don't want to break anything
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-05-2018 at 07:09 PM.
So what, you saying that what we have is correct? Oh man, sorry PO, LOL
Another thing, how do you check the 30 amp and 60 amp squares in the fuse box, do they pull out? Haven't tried, don't want to break anything
What you posted, with the 30 and 60 amp fuse blocks, looks like what I have and what you've pictured. I'm going to look at mine more tomorrow.
I THINK the fuse blocks pull out but I haven't had to work on them.
That splice between the FL wire and the three wires look stock; poorly done but stock.
Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah
Here's the schematic from my 84 truck repair manual
There you go! Where have you been hiding that schematic all along?
... 1 red from 30 amp, 1 red from 60 amp and the white wire from where?...
AHA! so there is no 40-Amp fuse but a 60-Amp one instead.
Splice on schematic does not always match actual physical splice. And color may not be accurate, either. Just physically trace the wires. The third wire should be "A" wire. It goes to hazard-horn fuse and pins 3 & 4 of headlight relay. Physically, it would look like in attached.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 02-06-2018 at 12:20 AM.
[QUOTE=RAD4Runner;52389716]That splice between the FL wire and the three wires look stock; poorly done but stock.
There you go! Where have you been hiding that schematic all along?
"In Plain Sight" LOL
Thanks Rad4Runner and L5wolvesf, we got it figured out...............And feeling a lot better knowing that the PO didn't mess with it, at least this part, under the dash is different story.
So Rad4 you wouldn't change out the 33 year old wires with new clean fresh copper? I'm not afraid of work, I've read where the guys here always have some issues with wiring. dim lights and such so I figured I'd just do a re-wiring of it. Just need to find a supplier for the connectors and the wire wrap.
1 step closer to finding why my dash board charge light doesn't work.......1 at a time.............
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-06-2018 at 08:13 AM.
You could help out us 84 guys by scanning and posting up the wiring diagrams from your FSM.
Far as I can tell the 1984 FSM is not online anywhere.
If there is a particular schematic you need just let me know and I'll take a pic. The schematics are attached to the back of the FSM and I can't scan them without removing them. There are 4 pages of folded pull outs, a lot of information
BTW, I bought the service manual for my specific 84 truck on, of all places, amazon! Used for $30 including shipping. Funny, the guy had 2 of these and he had 1 for $130 and this one for $30 Might have been a typo but he sent it.
There is one online right now for $75, just put in the search 1984 Toyota pickup service manual. Amazon has figured a way so you can't copy the link!
Good luck
Just let me know what you need, happy to help
Last edited by NYHumpinUtah; 02-06-2018 at 12:50 PM.
I would like to piggy back on this post , I am currently trying to replace this fusible link wire as well , My question is this . I have this 6 Gauge wire I purchased to replace the burnt one , Where Can I find a replacement plate tho ? I'm attempting to reuse the old one . But I am unsure If this will work and Or Is Safe .
02-05-2018, 10:26 AM
