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I had a starter issue about 2 years back. I took it to Ace Alternator in santa Fe Springs ca where i had previously bought my higher output alternator. They ran a new wire from battery to fuse to a new solenoid to my starter. Now it works every time!
Yes, Rich, that's what the relay retrofit does. Apparently the starter relay on your 88 V6 is wired wrong, too, OR because it had an auto transmission it was missing the starter relay.
Before Ace Alternator installed the "solenoid" (Strictly-speaking a "relay" really; Solenoid has mechanical actuator that operates mechanical things like the gear or a valve) current flow to your starter solenoid was like this:
After Ace installed the "solenoid" current flow is now like this:
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-13-2017 at 09:51 PM.
Yeah, love them. I use them for sailing, dayhikes, for when the trail's too rough for total barefoot running, and for when I'm in and out of the water - like when I volunteered to clean up Lake Powell, we would board the boat to move from place to place then jump off to pick up trash on the beaches and bluffs. I wish they'd make them ankle-high so I can used them with dive fins instead of dive booties. Unlike dive booties, the toes are not squeezed narrow and the ankles free so I can swim even with them on. And toes spread naturally makes landing more secure.
Originally Posted by coryc85
Ruby looks really good all waxed up!
Thanks, Cory. Yeah, I think that among the various colors for old vehicles red polishes up the best. Also thanks to Mark (Chefyota) for recommending TR3 cleaner/polish. It took off the oxidized/faded paint. The hood is worse but a good coating of wax fixes it.
She also has lots of wind rash, but that's low on my list of priorities... More urgent items:
Pitman Arm & Idler Arm - (pls see this post and comment if excessive or normal play) . Need to order replacement.
Upper Ball-Joint (Load-bearing) - Driver side has play and dust boot leaking. Already got parts from Toyota Parts Deal.
Grease the manual locking hub - driver side squeaks when turned between lock and free.
Check / grease wheel bearings
Seam seal the gutter above door and on A-pillar
Prime and paint the POR-15 on windshield surround for UV protection.
Upgrade my speakers (after-market Sony with torn paper cones).
Finish my fender mounted side markers that double as turn signal.
RAD4Runner, FINALLY getting back to you. Apologies on my delay in response to PAGE 41 as the "click only" issue was low on my priority list back when I was trying to figure it out before the problem returned. I figured when I had more time I would get to this, and sooner than now... Well, don't have more time but now the problem has creeped up forcing me to confront this...
I have a feeling something is different on my 22R than your 22RE? No modifications have been made to this starter circuit. First, there is NO 12V power going to my starter relay on the firewall. ZERO voltage when key out... but does show 12V when put into the temporary START position. If you look at PAGE 33 where I initially asked about not having 12V with key out, like the wiring diagram showed I should have, you dismissed that as being proof that I had the same issue as your 22RE folks. When you have some time, reread what I wrote on PAGE 33, and then PAGE 41.
I did hook the connector portion up to 12V on battery to experiment back in March and today and that is what caused the truck to start. I did not hook 12V to the wire harness that comes from under the fuse box going to the connector.... I did EXACTLY per the picture I believe.
So reviewing your 3 possible reasons for failure from PAGE 41, #1 seems the only possibility however not sure how I would test this yet.... #2 is a 99% no (have had truck since 1990 62k miles and is now 245k) and #3 is a 100% no. AND no, the truck does not attempt to start if the relay is disconnected and I then connect constant 12V from battery to the connector, but connect that connector to the relay and it will attempt to start and keep spinning the starter until the 12V is disengaged from that wire.
Look forward to your insight.... to me, it certainly seems a RELAY's whole point is to energize a circuit and so all the relays I have ever installed for lights, horns or whatever high amp draw have ALWAYS had a constant 12V. That seems to be where to start from?
I think we are talking in circles...lol I understand the issue is still there, Wasn't until recently that it has started to be an issue again (starter is getting older). My statement about no modifications to the starter circuit was in reference to why it would be that when I connect 12V to the appropriate wire, the truck wants to instantly start. I know you mentioned about unhooking the battery but I don't see how that is going to keep the starter from engaging as soon as I connect the battery again if I have connected 12V to the appropriate wire of the connector? I will supply a pic of the relay. Was wondering if possibly a few wacks I took at it years ago affected it but thinking more along your lines of something in the ignition circuit? Seems to me if something was welded together in there, it would cause some kind of issue before doing this modification? Just trying to wrap my head around why simply applying 12V constant to the relay is not working the way it should... Ignore my crude red wire I am using to supply the temporary 12V that started the starter so has been reattached to the harness side of the wire as originally was.
And sorry, I thought the wiring diagram was how it was suppose to be BEFORE the modification... ooops, I am on the same page now.
Brian, did you do as last picture I showed above describe?
What did you find out?
Originally Posted by Brian1973
I... if I have connected 12V to the appropriate wire of the connector...
Does the truck try to start even with the relay disconnecte
Sorry don't understand "appropriate wire". And picture does not clearly show where those wire go. Gotta show where all those wires go. Whats that really thick red wire doing? Where does it go?
Remember, I'm in San Diego; you gotta help.me see exactly what's in front of you.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-17-2017 at 09:28 AM.
Sorry for any misunderstanding. The truck will not start if relay is disconnected. "Appropriate wire" is the thick black wire you mention needs to be connected to 12V constant w fuse. The thick red wire is simply a wire I was using to connect temporarily to 12V constant/battery. It is connected under the electric tape to the connector where you state it then needs to go to 12V constant. When I go from connector to battery, truck starts. Therefore I simply hooked it back up to the harness wire I previously cut. Where it is NOT taped. All the other wires from the connector I assume go where you say they do.
Brian,
A Picture paints a thousand words. Pleae show me exactly what you are doing.
Again, I'm in San Diego; I need t see exactly what's in front of you.
Also sounds like your relay maybe shorted. With relay disconnected from connector, measure resistance between male pins on the relay that GO TO Pins 2 and 4 of connector.
Can't work on messy wiring. Pls do a I say and ANSWER MY QUESTION on attached..
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-17-2017 at 02:12 PM.
07-13-2017, 09:45 PM
Big 130lb BFT to be caught in our waters, get out there!
