NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

I have a 84 4wd base cab
When you turn the key to on what lights in the dash come on, (motor not started)
My speedo cluster doesn't have a tech, just the water temp and fuel gauge,and the speedo.
On mine the oil light, brake light (because the parking brake is on), set belt warning light come on and that't it
Are there other lights that should come on?
Charge light?
Also, when I start the engine the oil light goes out, the seat belt warning light is timed and goes out, and the brake light goes off when I release the parking brake. All sounds normal right?
One thing puzzles me is the oil light,. there is "no wire" attached to the sender! The sender being the one down next to the oil filter. Is there another sender for the idiot light? Is the sender by the oil filter for a gauge which I don't have?
On a rebuild, I just want to clean this all up before I tear it all apart.
Thanks
NYHumpinUtah

gsp4life

That sounds like right where the oil pressure sender (idiot light) would be. The oil port for that sensor is directly underneath the oil filter. The knock sensor is next to the oil filter. I know you said your harness seems to have been cut up by the PO, is there no extra plug hanging from the harness, or maybe it's taped up and hidden somewhere?

Here's a photo of my block with the oil pressure sender in place.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

hi gsp4life
Nope, no wire
Can you answer any of my other questions on this post
My sender is not directly beloe the oil filter it's towards the raditor a bit and it's a big round plug
Does it all sound correct, missing any light
So if there's no wire going to the sender why is the idiot light fuctioning?

gsp4life

If your sender is threaded just to the right of where mine is in the photo (see the small pipe plug?) that's fine also. Could be the stock location for a carb'd truck, and anyway it's the same oil passage right after the pump, but before the filter, so no difference. You said it's a large round sender, which makes me think you've got an sr5 oil pressure gauge sender, rather than the basic "idiot light" type I've got in my photo.

The other questions about the dash lights will have to wait till tomorrow. Too cold for me to want to head outside and the lady and my dog are sleeping, which I should be doing myself.

gsp4life

This is when I turn the key to ON.
​​​​​​
The seatbelt light goes out after 3 seconds, but the rest stay on until I start the engine. Those 4 lights turn off when it senses the parking brake isn't engaged, has oil pressure, and the alternator starts to turn. Something must be up for you to not have the check engine or charge light. You said you don't have the ecu connected, so that could be it.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

gsp4life
I think.....I don't have the check engine light because i don't have a real computer like in a EFI engine.
The charge light is another story, could be a blown bulb. I don't want to take it all apart till I'm ready to do the swap to a SR5 cluster.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to mention the horn!
PO put in an after market horn, wired it to a button on the dash................gezzz MM. the wires are there where the stock horn goes. I tried to check the wires back to the steering wheel. I connected a wire from the loose wire in the radiator area to the steering wheel and my meter jumps to say there is a connection but then goes down to 0. I'll figure it out. The buttons on the steering wheel work fine. If I connect my meter to the 2 wires in front and then depress the horn button should I get 12 volts if it's connected?
How about the fuse box in the engine compartment, what could be wrong there? Checked all the fusses and all good.The top of the cover has been cleaned off so don't know what all the fusses are for, i believe it's all lighting, but...........

RAD4Runner

A picture paints a thousand words... Why don't you also put us in that engine compartment and let us see what you see, so we can compare with GPS4ife's block?

Or blown "charge" fuse.
I do not know IF your schematic is same as our 1986-1988 22R-E (here).... If it is, Charge fault light will have 12V on one side as soon as you turn IGN on. While engine is not running, OR alternator is NOT running, or has a fault, "L" wire from alt will be close to ground (zero). This grounds the other side of the "Charge" fault light and turns it on. The most accessible place to check status of "L" is at the charge fuse.
IF you have same circuit/fuse block as our 22RE:
Always make sure all your connections have bare, shiny metal tightly contacting bare, shiny metal, then...
1) Turn IGN on, and alternator connected.
2) Measure voltage at both sides of Charge fuse here and let us know what you get.
3) Now, disconnect alt and measure again, and let us know what you get.


Yes.

L5wolvesf

My truck is similar to yours except it is not a 4x. When I put the key in as you describe I get 4 lights on. On my right the fasten belts, charge and parking brake lights come on. On my left the oil pressure light comes on. Hope this helps.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

RAD4Runner
Thanks for the info, when I get some time I will check that and "take a pic"
Do you also confirm that there is no check engine light on a carb engine, only for EFI with computers.
Thanks,
NYHumpinUtah

old87yota

Yes, this is true. (except for possibly some California models)

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

RAD4Runner
Here's a pic of my fuse box, looks the same

RAD4Runner

Got it.
You're missing the 80-Amp Fusible Link module.
This is for main engine compartment fuse block for 1986, but should be same as yours.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

I had a little time today to look at this. I followed the link that you gave me for the 80 amp fusible link.
Also, took part of my dashboard apart today, (i want to take as much off but still be able to use the truck incase it snows again) and checked the light bulb in the dash where the charge light is, and the bulb is good, so I will keep checking around. I must say that the PO really played around with the wiring on this. A lot of added wires under the dash near the fuse box and where the radio used to be. It's going to be a cluster .... when I get down to do all the wiring. I have time, spring is coming and the plan is to do a complete tear down to the frame and rebuild it frame up. Been buying parts for months now so when the time comes I'll be ready. Doing a lot of research and a lot of youtubes Fun fun fun............
Chime in if you can add anything, would love to hear what you have to say.
One more thing, I was able to get a new backup light switch to replace the one that's in the trans because the one that's in there has all corroded terminals. I still need to find a new 4wd sender switch that goes in the transfer case, again, the one in there has all corroded terminals on it. Does anyone have a part number for this sender? I can't seem to find it anywhere, hell, I don't even know what it's called! Anyone, let me know if you have a name for it and a part number.
Ok, after research I've found out that you can use a backup light switch for this, the real part is called a transfer indicator switch and they cost around $80 but you can use the backup switch instead for around $25 Anybody confirm this?
BTW, I watched the thread on here from kawazx636 on his 83 rebuild, all 73 pages, and got a lot of info from that. It was a few years ago but it still helps a lot. I did try and PM Dave a few times to ask some questions but he never responded, O well
Later

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Hey Rad4runner
I'm finding more....................
Took the fuse block off and guess what I found.



It looks like the PO spliced 3 wires together, 2 R-B and a white into a black wire which he then connected to the battery. It looks like the black wire is a fusible link, I think, and yes, that's the way I found the 3 wires coming out of the fuse box, bare and just twisted together.
So, my question is how do I make it correct? Your link shows 3 red wires screwed to the base and 1 white coming out, and I have 2 Red and a white. Where does your white wire attach to?

RAD4Runner

Oh yeah. Every picture tells a story...

Yep. P.O. bypassed the 80-Amp Fusible Link MODULE (the black module by itself^^^) and butchered the FL WIRE...
That wire that looks covered with UN-shrunk heat-shrink is the butchered FL wire....



Fuses/Fuseible Link on 1986:



This is the fusible link WIRE.


FL Wire connects to battery post then the plate goes in the fuse block. The terminal of the 80-Amp FL MODULE and those other wires screw down into that plate...


Should be similar to this, IF not exactly the same:

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Should be similar to this, IF not exactly the same:
[/QUOTE]
Not seeing where it goes on this pic
So what about my 2 r-b and 1 white wire, do they bolt on the base of the 80amp unit? and then the white wire coming out goes to the battery?
Getting closer................

L5wolvesf

FWIW, I have an 84 22R base pickup it has a 60 amp in the position where RAD4's 80 amp is - CORRECTION I should have said where RAD4's green block fuse is. I would image because there is no EFI on my truck. See pic below.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Rad4Runner,
Looks like there are some differences between the 86 4 runner with EFI and a plain ole 84 pickup I wish I was able to read a wiring chart!!!!

L5wolvesf
Thanks, looks like yours is like mine, no 80 amp block fuse All the wire colors look to be the same in yours and mine
Does yours have the 2-r-b and a white twisted together with the 60 amp fusible link wire? And does it attach to the battery like mine?
.

L5wolvesf

I did a small bit – possibly incomplete – of research and the 86 and later boxes seem to be different than prior ones. Hopefully RAD4 or someone else can confirm and say why.

From RAD4’s picture the 80 amp block fuse is in a position where a “Glow” block fuse might be. So something may have changed. BUT, the decal on my box cover may not be correct as it shows block fuses (Glow & Diesel) where there are none on my 22R.

The AM2 (pink or red) is a 30 amp block fuse. The AM1 (yellow) is a 60 amp block fuse. Now I am curious as to what each does.

My fusible link wire goes up under the box and seems to only be one wire. But I have not opened the box to see any further. The other end of the FL attaches to the positive battery cable. This summer I replaced my FL as part of upgrading to utilizing a starter relay in my system – helped along with assistance from Ray.