I am just finishing up a 3.4 swap, and cannot find anywhere to hook up the ADD vacuum lines from the front diff. I do however have manual hubs. Because I have these hubs, is it still required to hook the vacuum lines back up? If so where do you connect them to a 3.4?

 

Thanks 4Crawler these links sum ADD up and anyone with questions should read them closely before asking questions.
I bought 456 gears in a with ADD carrier and the guy who sold them to me told me just to cap the vaccum line to use with my Asin locking hubs, but that just didn't seem right as all both the axles were freewheeling when I held the pinion shaft?
After reading these links I understand what ADD is about and I am going to swap my non ADD long shaft and axle over before insalling my new gears to give me peice of mind and a clean IFS.
Thanks again 4Crawler you are truely a contributing member

 

As another bonus if you end up wheeling in really cold parts of Canada getting rid of the vacuum system is nice. Mine froze all last winter in Yellowknife and could not engage 4x4.

 

So TRDevelopment got an answer of "no" for this question. I am going to ask the same question. I have the automatic hubs (not the ADD system) I think they are great, best of both worlds, except I now have one that isn't disengaging all the way. Can I convert these to manual using the right parts? And what parts would that be?
I have a picture of a set I can get off CL, is this what I need?

 

If those are off an IFS truck (27 spline), then should be good to go:
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/

If they are 30-spline (solid axle) hubs, then they would not directly swap.

 

They are from an IFS, thanks for the fast reply

So do I have to take out the little brake assembly and replace it with those hub rings?

 

Never touched a set of auto hubs, but you basically want to get down to a bare stub axle and the bare end of the spindle. Inner part of hub slides on and then either a snap ring or a bolt hold the hub body onto the end of the stub axle. Then bolt the outer actuator part over the end and that is it. The writeup posted above should cover all the steps with photos and description. I don't think you keep much (if anything) from the auto hubs.

 

Yeah, thanks for the link to the write up. That's what I needed.

Thanks again, and thank you everybody who is part of this awesome community! I've gotten tons of information to help me with my 88 4Runner. This is the first time I actually had to post a question. There is so much information here, and I can usually find anything I need by spending a little time searching.

 

I have a question. Can you get manual hubs for an fj80 axle?

 

LIkely a solid axle locking hub would bolt right up. I have swapped the locking hubs and FJ-80 drive flanges on my truck:

 

yes, but depending on the year, you may have to cut a new groove in the birf for the c-clip.

apparently like '90-92 you can just swap your manual hubs straight on.

 

IFS or solid axle ones? How can I tell which year the axle is if I don't pull it from a donor vehicle myself?

I'm thinking of an SAS with an FJ80 axle.

 

solid axle hubs, sorry.

are you doing leaves in the front?

 

oh, and i have no idea how you tell the difference without looking at them, i just know that one has longer splines cut into the birf.

check the thread "who's running an fj80 axle" or something like that on pirate.

 

I plan on doing coils. It costs more but I want to keep it comfortable on road as much as possible.

 

Coils or coilovers?

Regardless,my point is, with a fj80 axle, you have to french a spring perch (or probably a coil bucket) into the housing. A little bit more fab. But just something to think about.

 

With the hubs in the FREE position, I still occasionally engage 4WD to control my speed while going down a hill (off road), is this okay to do? It is just slowing down the rear drive shaft, correct? No big deal?

 

It's slowing the rear drive shaft, rear axle shafts, front drive shaft and front axle shafts.

It is completely fine to do this. They simply freewheel and do not engage the shaft.

I do the same in very bad traffic, backing up to a trailer or up my driveway, in drive thrus and anywhere I'd like to let the clutch out but not go fast.

 

Sound fine to me. I sometimes just pop it in H4 and drive it down a couple of stop light just so the front gears can be lube, with the dials on free that is

 

Sweet, thanks for the assurance! I have done it a couple times now and have not felt/heard anything bad but I just wanted to make sure.

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