You likely have drive flanges, not auto hubs. Drive flanges are like "locked all the time" manual hubs in that they are just a solid chunk of steel that slips over the axle splines and gets bolted to the hub:


Easy check is to lift the front tires in the air, spin each tire by hand and see if the stub axles are turning. If so, the flanges are fine and it could be something in the front diff is acting up.

 

So, I just read an article saying it needs to be 15lbs vacuum on the drivers side in 2wd, 15lbs on the passgr side in 4wd to move the sleeve on the driver side cv to engage 4wd.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...tem-19259.html

Since I do have vacuum on the appropriate side at the actuator, I guess its possible to either A. not be enuf vacuum, or B. the "air bag" that slides the sleeve is a problem? Because if there is actually vaccum at the actuator, everything is working up to that point, right?
Trying to read and learn as much as I can about this system so I can get the 4wd working!

 

Jacking up ad spinning tires, both stub axles spin, so not a hub issue.
So something internal in the front diff? could it still be not enuf vaccum, or most likely something mechanical inside?
Thanks!

 

front end jacked.
2wd. engine off.
pass wheel turns freely, cv shaft turns, drive shaft not turn, driver wheel not turn.
driver wheel turn wheel, cv shaft turns, drive shaft not turn, pass wheel not turn.
exact same in 2wd, engine on.

engine on, 4wd (light on)
turn pass wheel, cv shaft turns, driver wheel turn opposite dir, driveshaft turns but not an exact ratio (meaniing wheel turns 1 revolution, driveshaft only 1/4 or so)
same thing opposite side.

engine on, 4wd (light on)
turn driveshaft, both wheels spin fwd or rev

engine on, 2wd
turn driveshaft, nothing turns either wheel or cv (supposed to happen)

jack all 4 up, 4wd (h or L), back wheels turn no prob, front wheels only barely trun and not same speed as back..
so differential or transfer case problem, being that my add is engaged as according to front end being locked in in 4wd?

 

So in the 4 wheels + 4WD test, are the front and rear drive shafts turning the same speed or not? You mentioned wheels barely turning, but is the front shaft barely turning.

In 4WD, can you rotate the front drive shaft at all with the rear wheels on the ground (or in the air with the e-brake on)?

It sounds line something in the t-case is not engaging front wheel drive. Is yours a 5-sp. or automatic and is it a mechanically shifted t-case or is it push button type 4H/4L shifting.

 

I will have to check the in 4wd spin front driveshaft w rear wheels on the ground.
In 4wd, the front driveshaft and wheels barely (mening not even a full revolution) turned.. (with all 4 wheels jacked up and locked in/engine running/in gear)
I am pretty sure it has to be the t case.. going to check the linkage tonight. I am certain now that my front diff/axle/ADD is fully engaging in 4wd.
Hopefully it is just the Tcase linkage is slipping or not adjusted properly?
If not what the heck could go wrong in a chain driven tcase - the chain breaks???
Thanks for everyones help thus far.

 

If it is mechanically shifted, be sure and check the adjustment of the linkage that operates the transfer case. If the transfer case has a shifter attached directly to the top of the transfer case, you might try to pull it out and verify that the end of the shifter is properly stabbed into the shift rails. What I like to do is shift into 4H then pull the shifter out. The shift rails should both be at the full forward position and the two notches in the 2/4 and H/L rails should be lined up next to each other. It is not uncommon to have that shifter end in the wrong location and that can case strange shifting behavior.

If all the shifting components seem to be OK, it then is likely something wrong internal to the transfer case. You likely have a chain driven model, so it is possible the chain may be broken. Although that would not explain the slow rotation of the front shaft in test 5. For that to happen, you would need some component that is perhaps slipping or stripped out and just the friction is causing some rotation. That could also be due to the gear oil viscosity inside the case dragging a front drive gear along enough to spin it with wheens in the air but not on the ground. Is there any noise heard when you spin the front drive shaft with the case in 4WD?

Only way to really tell is to remove the transfer case and open it up for an inspection. Not sure of that chain is accessible with the transfer case attached to the vehicle or not. But you might also look to swapping in a case from a junkyard or maybe you can find someone with a V6 truck that has swapped to a gear driven transfer case in order to install lower range gearing.

 

When in 4wd my '87 4runner pulls and jerks hard to the right. A friend suggested that the right hub isn't engaging and could probably just be taken apart and cleaned. Are there any potential issues I could run into if I'm not familiar to the setup? (I've watched videos but haven't done one myself) And are ring pliers necessary? Thanks

 

Might try some of the above tests and see if you can verify the hubs are locking and unlocking properly. If it is pulling to the right, it could be one of the CV joints is tight or binding up. Should be able to feel that by locking that hub and turning the wheel (with it up in the air).

A set of snap ring pliers is very handy, I have a pair of reversible pliers that I use on my hubs:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#TearDown
They were not very expensive and I keep them in my truck toolbox.

 

I was gifted two Samurai hubs which from what im reading, minus the inner hub gear are exactly the same as the solid axle hubs. My plan is too purchase IFS inner hub gears for my 95 4runner 3.0, now my question comes from this write up

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuk...ts-toyota.html


Will my IFS inner hub gears work with a SA hub housing? will I get enough spline engagement?

these are Aisin Hubs btw

 

What's every ones opinion on changing from manual to automatic hubs? I love my manual hubs they work great but I get tired of having to get in and out, how much difference could I tell with fuel mileage and loss of power?

94 pickup 22re 5speed 4x4 235/75/15s aluminum wheels cat delete cold air intake timing adjustment

 

A lot of work to put more weak points in your 4-wheel drive setup... but to each his own. If I know I'm gonna be using 4-wheel drive a lot, I just leave my hubs locked in. As long as I'm not gonna be on the highway for long, it has no ill affects.

 

I bought a 93 4runner with asin manual locking hubs and the nuts were over tighting from previous owner so the don't come off, how do just get them off and do they need to come off if I am gonna do wheel bearing.

 

I have an 87 ifs pickup. Waiting on a set of warns that are supposed to be here tomorrow. I am in a pinch. I have a set off my bros 85 sfa. Can I use the outer half ((with the spring and pawl etc) on the rest of my hub? If so I can run the plow in this snow. Otherwise I'm stuck waiting I guess.

Thanks,

Z

 

Or is there a way I can just rig mine to stay locked the next couple day? That would be fine.

 

Yes the hub dials interchange. I have solid axle hub dials on my IFS hubs.

 

Sweet thanks! I will just change the dials an go! Stupid question? Does the large gear that falls right out interchange?

 

The one attached to the hub dial when you remove it?

 

Yes, I took mine out over summer because they were always locked. I know they are around somewhere but can't find them!

 

Yes that part interchanged on mine. Why switch to warn hubs if you only need the hub dial?