Hey everyone, first post here! I've been reading the other members postings over the last few days about non-start issues on the 3.0 and I've checked fuses, fuel, spark, swapped ignitor modules, but I'm getting frustrated now.
I jumped the TE1 and E1 terminals so I could read the error codes by the CEL, but all I'm getting is a steady blinking light when I turn the ignition on. I tried reattaching the jumper several times but the results are the same.

The truck ran fine one day, and the next day when my girl got in it to go to school, all it would do is crank, that's it.

Any suggestions on how to proceed from here?

Thanks for looking.

 

ok i know u checked but do u get a fuel smell when u are cranking? also timing belt break? does the rotor in the dist move? also check your ground at the back of the motor and the other one on drivers side. make sure they are hooked up.

 

^^x2.

 

Thanks guys. I think I did smell some fuel when I was cranking it once, but I didn't see any leaks anywhere. Also a check of the dist rotor shows it to be turning while cranking the engine.

Don't know if this matters much but the PCV valve needs to be replaced because I found a small puddle of oil in the throat of the TB, but I don't understand how that alone would cause it to run one day and not the next. Getting to that valve is a real pain too, but I'm doing it now.

 

did you try giving it a little shot of funny gas to fire it up? my reasoning here is if it wil run on ether you can narrow it down to just a fuel problem. also make sure your maf is plugged in all the way

 

Thanks Blake. I just got through replacing the plugs (gapped at .30) and spun the engine. No dice. Pulled a plug and it had fuel residue on it, laid it against the block and cranked it and it appears there's no spark.

I better troubleshoot the coil now.

Is there a way to check and see if the ignitor module is working instead of just guessing if it is or not?

 

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

link for the fsm... the answer u seek is in there...

 

Could be a Crank Position Sensor, this sensor when it goes bad (dead) it doesn't throw any code.

 

Well ya'll looks like I got off easy, it was a bad coil. Thanks for the responses (and the link to the fsm) because there is alot of valuable info in there that can help out next time. Which hopefully won't be too soon, haha...

 

Instead of making a new thread I thought I'd continue this one and see if anyone can offer some expertise.

It happened again. Driving it yesterday and the engine just cut out and that was it. Has fuel, cranks, but no spark.

Last week when it didn't start I replaced the rotor and cap and that didn't work. Put a new coil on it and it fired right up so I thought the problem was solved.

Since then it's been starting fine, running fine, nothing weird going on. And then yesterday I left the house and got 2 miles down the road the the engine quit without warning. I pulled in a parking lot and banged my head on the steering wheel for a bit then started checking things out. I figure that since it quit so quick that its either the ignition control module or the distributor, I can't think of anything else it could be. I went ahead and swapped the coil for a new one (since that worked last time) and got nothing. When I checked the coil wires harness there was 12.5v on the + side and .5v on the other wire when I crank the engine. Coil wire to distributor checked out good. And just a few minutes ago I replaced the ignitor module with a new one and that didn't work. Checked fuses, all good.

When I use a jumper wire in the diagnostic box to pull the codes via the CEL, all I get is a steady blinking CEL. I've tried several times (using the right terminals) and it's all I get.

The last thing I can think of is the distributor and I don't wanna go there yet.

It's a good truck with only a little over 100k, but this thing has me baffled and running kinda hot now.

Thanks for reading this if you got this far, and I'm gonna go tinker with it some more and check back here in a few hours.

 

Did you ever figure this out?

 

Yea, it was the MAF, I had to buy a new one. What happened was that I wanted to check the MAF connection, so I took the screws out holding the wire and pulled. Well, the innards from the MAF came out (I've never seen anything like that) and I gently put them back in and the engine ran fine. Then soon after I was driving I think road/engine vibration caused it to short out and the engine die. Not a cheap part to replace and I was pissed at myself for not being more careful, but ya live and learn...

Happy trails...