Need help on 88 4runner no idle stalls
#1
Need help on 88 4runner no idle stalls
I recently bought a 1988 4runner v6 3.0 4x4 automatic has 3vze motor. It has some serious oil leaks but other than that ran fine during test drive. Drove for a week checking oil everyday, was all good. Went to get in it and checked oil none was showing on the stick. I only had 2 quarts available. I put those in and drove in to maintenance bay at work and had mechanic put more in. Well I guess he didn't check after he put oil in and neither did I before I drove it. I drove home which is about seven miles away. Everything was fine during drive. I didn't get in till about 2 days later and went to start it up. It was hard to start so gave it gas. When it cranked it was missing real bad and as soon as I let off throttle it stalled immediately. I checked oil and it was about 1 1/2" above full line. It needed a tune up anyway so I drained oil to proper level, changed plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. That helped to quick start but still no idle, just stalls. I know from research it is vacuum leak, throttle body, or vane wind meter. I cleaned throttle body, mas and changed gaskets on them using proper torque. I tested hoses with vacuum tester and everything seemed to hold. I could not get vacuum on throttle body or EGR disk? I don't know if was doing it correctly. I also noticed small traces of oil that leaked out from intake manifold gasket. Where should I start now? Would a slight leak from intake manifold cause it to create such a vacuum leak that the engine will not idle? Also don't know proper way to check and see if EGR is stuck in open position? Any ideas would help. I hooked diagnostic machine to it but said vehicle is not responding or cable not connected. It was connected ok so don't know much about that either?
Thanks
James
Thanks
James
#3
Yeah i was trying to do it the lazy way. I really never ran into a problem like this before but I have never owned a 4runner or 3vze motor either. I figured the only way to find the actual problem and really learn how this motor operates is to start tearing it down. I can replace gaskets, seals, adjust everything back to spec and give a good cleaning as well as inspect for root cause of problem. So I started that last night.
First problem i ran into was the EGR valve. When I pulled that I inspected underneath disk and found tear in diaphragm. I believe it was stuck in the open position. The EGR gasket was in rough shape and the intake is full of oil and gas up to the hole where EGR tube comes out. I assume this is from over-filling with oil and driving about seven miles? The valve above the EGR, I think oxygen VSV was covered with burnt oil and fresh oil. That gasket was aslo saturated to the point it was leaking. I can see it was removed before because on of the bolts was missing a washer.
I figure I should keep going and continue tearing down to clean and replace gaskets and seals. Any ideas on best process and procedure would help. I have Chiltons Manuel but it seems really vague. Kinda going at it blind.
Thanks
James
First problem i ran into was the EGR valve. When I pulled that I inspected underneath disk and found tear in diaphragm. I believe it was stuck in the open position. The EGR gasket was in rough shape and the intake is full of oil and gas up to the hole where EGR tube comes out. I assume this is from over-filling with oil and driving about seven miles? The valve above the EGR, I think oxygen VSV was covered with burnt oil and fresh oil. That gasket was aslo saturated to the point it was leaking. I can see it was removed before because on of the bolts was missing a washer.
I figure I should keep going and continue tearing down to clean and replace gaskets and seals. Any ideas on best process and procedure would help. I have Chiltons Manuel but it seems really vague. Kinda going at it blind.
Thanks
James
#4
Registered User
Take off the air intake hose and inspect it very closely for cracks. The whole hose assembly from the AFM to the throttle body. Air leaks there can cause the engine not to run. They are prone to crack on the underside where you cant see it and in the ribs where you wont see it unless you flex the hose. When you cleaned your throttle body did you remove the TPS? If you did it could be out of adjustment. If you did not remove it, then I would check the adjustment and parameters with a multimeter.
Again check codes. It can tell you the direction you need to go and not waste a bunch of time doing stuff you dont need to do. Its easy and free...
Again check codes. It can tell you the direction you need to go and not waste a bunch of time doing stuff you dont need to do. Its easy and free...
Last edited by offroadnutz; 06-25-2015 at 05:33 PM.
Trending Topics
#10
No, I don't believe that's it. Its the one located at rear of motor close to firewall and has two ports (Or nipples). It screws into the water bypass cover on back of lower manifold. If to much trouble or already scrapped don't worry about it. Ill just bypass that valve and run vacuum line from charcoal canister purge straight to throttle body. Hope it wasn't a hassle getting that part though. Thanks man
#12
It is just one of those sensors. It has a vacuum hose that comes from charcoal canister and one from the throttle body. Each go to one of the two nipples that are on that particular sensor. Also I forgot to ask but the water bypass on the front of intake that has pulley damper for timing belt. Well the two studs the bypass cover slides over, I really need those they are threaded into bottom half of bypass. Really a pain to get out but if you manage to that would be awesome.
#14
Ever solve this problem?
It is just one of those sensors. It has a vacuum hose that comes from charcoal canister and one from the throttle body. Each go to one of the two nipples that are on that particular sensor. Also I forgot to ask but the water bypass on the front of intake that has pulley damper for timing belt. Well the two studs the bypass cover slides over, I really need those they are threaded into bottom half of bypass. Really a pain to get out but if you manage to that would be awesome.
#15
Need to know what the solution was
Me too same problem I need to know what fixed it
starts tries to run then dies
please help
supermanincognito1996@gmail.com
thanks
#17
yes it did sit for a year...but I have the fuel pump hooked directly to the battery and it's pumping lots of pressure I cracked the fuel rail lines loose and connected the pump it spit out fuel
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Get a NOID light and see if you are getting an injector pulse. Now I do have a 1988 ecu 3vze but no engine harness. Along with some other year ecus. I will never have another 3vze, since I'm running 22R and SBC. If you are not gettint that pulse it maybe one of the coils in the distributor or one one the external parts.
#19
Get a NOID light and see if you are getting an injector pulse. Now I do have a 1988 ecu 3vze but no engine harness. Along with some other year ecus. I will never have another 3vze, since I'm running 22R and SBC. If you are not gettint that pulse it maybe one of the coils in the distributor or one one the external parts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
07-06-2015 01:20 PM