only getting 9mpg
#1
only getting 9mpg
Hello this is my first post, tho i have been using the site for awile.
OK so i have a 1990 4runner 3.0 v6 manual 5 speed 4x4 . It recently just got a new engine rebuild it has about 6k on it at the moment. it is completely stock except for the 31s on it and has no catalytic converter. it has all new parts and i mean everything is new under the hood that's why i am having a hard time believing it is only getting 9mpg . i have only had the 4runner for 3 weeks and have no money to take it to a mechanic. i am pretty handy guy i can do most stuff on cars i just need help trying to figure this out.
thanks for reading
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OK so i have a 1990 4runner 3.0 v6 manual 5 speed 4x4 . It recently just got a new engine rebuild it has about 6k on it at the moment. it is completely stock except for the 31s on it and has no catalytic converter. it has all new parts and i mean everything is new under the hood that's why i am having a hard time believing it is only getting 9mpg . i have only had the 4runner for 3 weeks and have no money to take it to a mechanic. i am pretty handy guy i can do most stuff on cars i just need help trying to figure this out.
thanks for reading
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#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Just how are you figuring your mileage ??
Just what kind of driving ??
Since you have a new engine with only 6000 miles .
I would hope all the tune up parts were new at the time. Timing is where it should be.
What do your plugs look like??
Which would then make this a mechanical engine issue .
A fuel leak would be hard to miss.
Injectors leaking .
Cam Timing
Rings not seating
valves not seating correct.
Just what kind of driving ??
Since you have a new engine with only 6000 miles .
I would hope all the tune up parts were new at the time. Timing is where it should be.
What do your plugs look like??
Which would then make this a mechanical engine issue .
A fuel leak would be hard to miss.
Injectors leaking .
Cam Timing
Rings not seating
valves not seating correct.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Are you figuring your MPG with the larger tire size in mind? If your 4runner originally came with the standard 225/75-15s and was never regeard for the 31s, your odometer is almost 10% off. On top of that, the engine is also working harder to get up to speed. It might not seem like much but it will add up real quick.
#4
Just how are you figuring your mileage ??
Just what kind of driving ??
Since you have a new engine with only 6000 miles .
I would hope all the tune up parts were new at the time. Timing is where it should be.
What do your plugs look like??
Which would then make this a mechanical engine issue .
A fuel leak would be hard to miss.
Injectors leaking .
Cam Timing
Rings not seating
valves not seating correct.
Just what kind of driving ??
Since you have a new engine with only 6000 miles .
I would hope all the tune up parts were new at the time. Timing is where it should be.
What do your plugs look like??
Which would then make this a mechanical engine issue .
A fuel leak would be hard to miss.
Injectors leaking .
Cam Timing
Rings not seating
valves not seating correct.
I drive 80miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
Like I did everything is brand new under the hood.
The plugs look good.
Can't find a fuel leak been looking for a week.
#5
Are you figuring your MPG with the larger tire size in mind? If your 4runner originally came with the standard 225/75-15s and was never regeard for the 31s, your odometer is almost 10% off. On top of that, the engine is also working harder to get up to speed. It might not seem like much but it will add up real quick.
#6
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If you don't account for the tire size your mileage is reading low (odometer showing less miles than actually traveled). So your real fuel mileage is probably slightly above 10mpg.
That's still too low. Is the check engine light on? Also, double check the distributor timing. Retarded timing will kill mileage and power. It's also possible the timing belt is off by a tooth, making the valve timing off, which will devastate engine performance (but fortunately not damage a 3.0 engine).
Since it doesn't have a cat converter, do you know what else in terms of engine/emission controls has been ripped out? Contrary to popular belief, these engines do not run better with the emission controls removed. It's a carefully engineered system that doesn't respond well to hacking.
BTW, a properly tuned 3.0 in a 4runner with a manual should be capable of 17-20mpg, depending on your driving style. That should be your target.
That's still too low. Is the check engine light on? Also, double check the distributor timing. Retarded timing will kill mileage and power. It's also possible the timing belt is off by a tooth, making the valve timing off, which will devastate engine performance (but fortunately not damage a 3.0 engine).
Since it doesn't have a cat converter, do you know what else in terms of engine/emission controls has been ripped out? Contrary to popular belief, these engines do not run better with the emission controls removed. It's a carefully engineered system that doesn't respond well to hacking.
BTW, a properly tuned 3.0 in a 4runner with a manual should be capable of 17-20mpg, depending on your driving style. That should be your target.
Last edited by RJR; 06-28-2015 at 12:04 PM.
#7
If you don't account for the tire size your mileage is reading low (odometer showing less miles than actually traveled). So your real fuel mileage is probably slightly above 10mpg.
That's still too low. Is the check engine light on? Also, double check the distributor timing. Retarded timing will kill mileage and power. It's also possible the timing belt is off by a tooth, making the valve timing off, which will devastate engine performance (but fortunately not damage a 3.0 engine).
Since it doesn't have a cat converter, do you know what else in terms of engine/emission controls has been ripped out? Contrary to popular belief, these engines do not run better with the emission controls removed. It's a carefully engineered system that doesn't respond well to hacking.
BTW, a properly tuned 3.0 in a 4runner with a manual should be capable of 17-20mpg, depending on your driving style. That should be your target.
That's still too low. Is the check engine light on? Also, double check the distributor timing. Retarded timing will kill mileage and power. It's also possible the timing belt is off by a tooth, making the valve timing off, which will devastate engine performance (but fortunately not damage a 3.0 engine).
Since it doesn't have a cat converter, do you know what else in terms of engine/emission controls has been ripped out? Contrary to popular belief, these engines do not run better with the emission controls removed. It's a carefully engineered system that doesn't respond well to hacking.
BTW, a properly tuned 3.0 in a 4runner with a manual should be capable of 17-20mpg, depending on your driving style. That should be your target.
The cat is the only thing removed.
I drive it like an old man shift at or before 2500rpm and don't go over 65Mph
There is a Toyota guy here in town I might have him look at it. I just don't know yet I kinda want to figure it out myself.
Last edited by ZONAYODA; 06-28-2015 at 07:25 PM.
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#8
Well so I figured out my problem.
So I checked if the check engine light was working and it wasn't. I then ripped the dash apart and found the bulb had gone bad. So I replaced it and boom the light comes on. I did the CEL blinker test and I got a 52 and a 41. So now my question is how hard is it to do both of these? Thanks
So I checked if the check engine light was working and it wasn't. I then ripped the dash apart and found the bulb had gone bad. So I replaced it and boom the light comes on. I did the CEL blinker test and I got a 52 and a 41. So now my question is how hard is it to do both of these? Thanks
#9
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iTrader: (1)
Since it can be anything in the knock sensor circuit .
It can get interesting If you get lucky it is a corroded connection at the pig tail.
The same with the TPS it is the complete circuit .
Best bet is to get a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your year.
Try and figure out just what the problem is before replacing things
It can get interesting If you get lucky it is a corroded connection at the pig tail.
The same with the TPS it is the complete circuit .
Best bet is to get a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your year.
Try and figure out just what the problem is before replacing things
#10
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Both of those codes will affect your mileage, particularly the code 52. When the knock sensor is inoperative, the engine operates with very retarded timing to avoid possible damage, which kills fuel mileage and power.
The factory service manual (FSM) is here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ersion-276322/. It's for a '93, but it will cover the issues you're dealing with.
Also, this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-216933/ contains most of the world's knowledge on dealing with code 52.
The FSM will tell you how to test and adjust the TPS. Do that before you tear it apart or replace it.
The factory service manual (FSM) is here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ersion-276322/. It's for a '93, but it will cover the issues you're dealing with.
Also, this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-216933/ contains most of the world's knowledge on dealing with code 52.
The FSM will tell you how to test and adjust the TPS. Do that before you tear it apart or replace it.
#11
Well so I figured out my problem.
So I checked if the check engine light was working and it wasn't. I then ripped the dash apart and found the bulb had gone bad. So I replaced it and boom the light comes on. I did the CEL blinker test and I got a 52 and a 41. So now my question is how hard is it to do both of these? Thanks
So I checked if the check engine light was working and it wasn't. I then ripped the dash apart and found the bulb had gone bad. So I replaced it and boom the light comes on. I did the CEL blinker test and I got a 52 and a 41. So now my question is how hard is it to do both of these? Thanks
I had a couple of faults that didn't trigger my CEL light. I guess they were small issues to whoever set up the diagnostic program.
Now I keep a paper clip in the ashtray to do fault checks every once in a while to see if everything's still doing ok.
As you now know when it functions correctly the CEL should come on when you first turn the key. If it doesn't pick up a major fault it'll soon go out. I wouldn't consider either of the codes you got small issues.
Last edited by Odin; 06-30-2015 at 07:07 PM.
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Well so I figured out my problem.
So I checked if the check engine light was working and it wasn't. I then ripped the dash apart and found the bulb had gone bad. So I replaced it and boom the light comes on. I did the CEL blinker test and I got a 52 and a 41. So now my question is how hard is it to do both of these? Thanks
So I checked if the check engine light was working and it wasn't. I then ripped the dash apart and found the bulb had gone bad. So I replaced it and boom the light comes on. I did the CEL blinker test and I got a 52 and a 41. So now my question is how hard is it to do both of these? Thanks
Well, at least you know where to start looking for the problems now.
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