Nathan_F

I have an 89 Toyota pu. 3.0 4x4 5spd. Looking for advice/recommendations on after market cruise controls.

fdp101452

Years ago I bought a cruise control from j c whitney and put it on my 88 Toyota pickup and it worked fine. Might give them a look...........

hyota

I have an '88 4Runner, 3.0 5spd. Cruise control deteriorated over the course of a few months. I dismantled the vacuum actuator and discovered that the rubber bellows had itself deteriorated, lots of cracks & leaks.

I bought a Mopar vacuum actuator. I routed out the inside of the Toyota actuator, and mounted the Mopar inside it. Re-installed in the truck, you can hardly tell it's not stock.

The Toyota actuator has 3 wires: vacuum valve, vent valve, ground. Normally vacuum is closed and vent is open. Presumably, when active, the controller closes vent, then controls the vacuum valve to maintain speed. All well and good.

The Mopar actuator has 4 wires: vacuum valve, vent valve, dump valve, ground. I simply tied vent & dump together.

The Toyota is common ground, the Mopar is common 12v (or v.v.). There's a diode in the Mopar that has to be cut or reversed.

Result: not good. When engaged, the controller closes vent and opens vacuum--and keeps it that way. Engaged at 55mph. Accelerates to 60mph. 70mph. I touched the clutch at 75mph to disengage.

Does anybody have the faintest idea why the controller would simply pull the throttle as hard as it can and just leave it that way? Death wish? I can think of no combination of mis-wiring that could result in energizing both valves this way. I'm baffled.

Any veterans here, please feel free to move this to a new thread. I don't have 15 posts, I can't open a new thread.