Can u post a link to the water meth kit again found a kit for 275 with double presure kit

 

Anyone why if aquastealth is a good kit

 

Sence u know about Nissan turbos what about a 300zx turbo a friend of mine has one what size would that be and how could I tell what size it is. I just got my 440 injectors and once u guys get back to me on the water meth ill be putting on the stock turbo with the 440's and arp head studs and wide band and see how it does on 10.5:1 compression. What kinda power u guys think ill hit with the turbos ur talking about and all the supporting mods

 

This is the meth injection kit I recommend, same thing I use. http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedispl...controllerkits,

The extra cost is well worth it for the failsafe, the failsafe is less then the cost of an engine.

If you must cheap out then just get a basic stage 1 kit from devils own.

What kind of 300zx turbo? Z31 ot Z32?

 

TA, why use meth inj on a naturally aspirated vehicle?

 

I take it you jumped to the last post? The whole thread has been about turboing his high compression engine.

Although it can help power even on an NA engine. I am running meth injection on my 4runner while it is NA right now and it does help power. Not nearly as much as when it was boosted naturally but it does help. Also helps keep the engine clean internally which is nice.

 

Ok well like I asked a friend told me about aquastelth and I figured is ask if it was a good kit or aem ? I'm not sure that's why I asked how I could tell them apart on which turbo is which ?

 

Any 300ZX turbo from 84 to Feb to 87 will be a T3 T28 for lack of a better term, almost identical to the factory turbo on an RB25 size wise. April of 87 they went to a T25, and on the Z32TT they went to a pair of even smaller T25's (T20's in Garretts books). None would be very suitable for your goals as it would actually be smaller than a CT20 (or d*mn near it). Also fitment would be a bit of an issue due to their irregular turbine outlet bolt patterns. The Silvia turbos which have the common Garrett GT 5 bolt outlets have any aftermarket options which is what you need to support the use of one on your engine. There are even bolt on outlets available that can employ v band mounting to further simplify exhaust plumbing since you would need a custom downpipe to fit one of these. V band would make that simpler though using a bottom mount manifold, a Silvia downpipe should fit as long as it has a flex joint in it like the PBM's and Megan Racing ones have. From there an exhaust shop could plumb the rest of it quite simply. To further simplify the use of one of these turbos, you should look into the Circuit Sports steel braid oil and coolant lines for a Silvia. A simple fitting or 2 would quickly adapt them to your engine and make installation and plumbing much easier. I will follow up this post with links for the above mentioned parts to help out

 

Ok so with everything I'm having to get for this build I'm raising the power goal to 300 at the wheels I've seen subarus hit that with 20g and evos so don't see why I shouldnt be able to hit that or come close. So now the thing is is the 20 g still the turbo u guys recamend ?Texas ace I know 300 is still low but that's the big whp I've ever herd on a 22re or 22ret

 

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Factor...8R_p_1265.html

Here is the turbo that would be ideal. You can find them used for under $500 and in terms of a balance between power and response, theyre nasty!

http://www.frsport.com/Megan-Racing-...on_p_1299.html

This is the down pipe I was talking about with the flex joint. Should help fitment as well

http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10046-Top...-_p_15433.html

These are the oil and coolant lines I mentioned. They will work directly for the S14 turbo. Remember to get a .032" oil restrictor if you get and S15 ball bearing turbo. Ball bearing turbos dont need as much oil and to much pressure in the CHRA will blow out the seals in it and then youll leak oil into your housings

 

Also youll want these to fit your suction and discharge pipes

http://www.frsport.com/FR-76mm-3-0-i...er_p_9436.html

http://www.frsport.com/FR-51mm-2-in-...er_p_9437.html

 

Water/meth if you must. Im still a fan of high compression, big fuel, low boost. Just my $.02

http://www.frsport.com/AEM-30-3000-W...-_p_16906.html

 

Never heard of that company personally, heard of aquatech and they are good but overpriced. Stick to deviles own or Coolingmist, they are both American companies and make good kits. Devils own for the stage 1 simple kit and coolingmist for the progressive kits with failsafe. Deviles own nozzles are the best deal.

SCREW AEM meth kits. They suck big time, had one, HATED it. Night and day difference between it and my coolingmist or deviles own or home made or basically anything else. The controller sucks and it still doesn't have a failsafe which is a must IMO.

I would agree, that turbo should work good for your goals, not sure how much boost it would need to reach 300whp but with the meth injection you should be ok.

See above, the AEM meth kit is the worst I have ever used. Think of water/meth injection as on demand race gas. It is there as a bonus to get the most out of the car, be it power or safety. I never see me having another boosted car not running some form of meth injection.

It is cheap insurance if nothing else.

 

No, I've been following along through the whole thread. But I clicked on your link for Coolmist and they were talking about it on NA engines. I wondered what the reasoning was, and you cleared it up. I'd just never heard of it on NA engines. I am contemplating turbo'ing my 3RZ, so the meth inj is something I am researching. I just don't know how feasible it is on a 40-50K mile/yr daily driver...

 

Ah ok. Generally it is only needed on high compression NA engines or places where they would be octane limited. It will help some though due to the cooler intake temps though.

It also cleans the engine as a nice bonus. Really though on an NA setup the cost for the kit is usually not worth it. I only run it on mine because it was already installed and I will want it again when I go turbo.

 

Never used the AEM kit personally. Only person I know who has likes it but I have no vote. I did install a Snow Performance water/meth kit on an A4 2.0FSI but I didnt drive the car before so I cant give any insight on its performance. All I can tell you is the little red light would come on when it activated.

For your race gas statement. I have a 5 gal fuel cell in my trunk filled with VP110. I flip a switch and my my fuel system changes over using a Y fitting with a check valve in each line so pump doesnt back feed to the race gas or vice versa. Only problem is I had to find big -8 AN check ball fittings (d*mn near inpossible) because there is no way I'll believe that anything smaller would have been a restriction and lean out. That switch only gets hit when I line up and switch to high boost though lol. Aeromotive A340 in-tank, A1000 external.

 

Snow is another ok company but like aquamist they are overpriced.

I am actually a big fan of duel fuel systems, I see then as just meth injection on steroids. I plan to have a dual fuel system on my MR2 when I get it running again, injecting ~10,000cc pure methanol (cheaper then race gas and way better performance).

E85/E98 is the second runner up for best race gas.

 

My dual fuel system started as a nitrous project, then I bought a house so I sold the nitrous kit and paid my utility deposit lol. So with the additional fuel cell and pump the little light upstairs came on, some -8 line, switch, wires and some fittings voila. VP110 at my finger tip. Had 118 in it once and set up my scramble boost on my EVC6 except forgot to lower my boost offset. I was glad for the 118 cause my boost gauge reads 30 to zero and zero to OH MY GOD!!! Saw it pegged out and let out right about when 3ed gear said no. It made very expensive sounds and then tow truck

 

Btw, if youre ever in the market for a boost controller for your soon to be turbo 22r, I HIGHLY recommend one of these. Best unit Ive ever set up and run, esp if you spend the extra money and get the Easy Writer software. It makes navigating the functions much simper than using the knob and buttons. Much better unit than my Blitz SBC color or my Profec B spec 2 ever could have been

http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...at=1491&page=1

 

If he is going megasquirt they have built in boost control which is what I would use.

If that was not an option though that looks like a reasonable EBC.