Texas_Ace

Yes it would, it was linked to earlier in the thread.

Lucky for him the ringlands are the most common failure point of the engines with cast pistons. When they let go usually no other damage is done besides low compression.

Nah, turboing an NA engine is really no differnt then any other boosted engine. The turbo doesn't know what it is bolted to and the engine works the same with or without the turbo. The turbo just allows it to make more power by making the air denser.

Done this a few times, really not a big deal as long as you do your research and take your time. The tune is the most important part.

HighLux

Funny you mentioned ringlands Texas...

I smoked 3 on my 14,000 mile Mach1 running 10 psi
on a Procharger D1. Ran out of fuel pump @7k rpm
racing a SS with a 150 shot and goodies. The cobra twin pumps were not enough to save her.

That was a PRICEY day.

Texas_Ace

Ouch, odd to see the top ringland go like that. Usually that is due to ring butting due to not enough ring gap, which makes sense if it went lean and EGT's skyrocketed.

On toyotas you generally see the failure in the 2nd ringland due to that being the weakest point and will go at the first hint of knock. With this failure a lot of guys never even know they have a problem until they notice they are using oil.

Heck I drove my car for a few months with a broken ringland before fixing it.

HighLux

When the lands went ...it just layed down. No noise...just started missing on 3 cylinders. No temp gauge spike...no nothing. I was hoping I had oil fouled the plugs or something.

I actually limped it home on 5 cyl about 30 miles. Bucking and spitting...blower whistling away...lol.

Did a compresssion test next morning...first one I did...0.
I walked out of the garage in disgust. I didnt touch it for 3 months. Just let it sit there with the compression tester still
dangling.

When it smoked the lands..it powdercoated the valves ans combustion chambers with aluminum...lol. Believe it or not..
only damage at all was the pistons. Cylinder walls were factory new still. It just got super hot super quick, vaporized the lands and sucked the debris out the kooks longtubes.

85celicagthatchback

So does anyone know if a t3 flang is the same as the 14g or 16g?

Texas_Ace

Those small turbos use a different flange in stock form but pretty sure they sell housings that convert it to T3. Not an expert on the TD line of turbos.

I know the 20g uses a standard T3 flange, it would work for you as well. Would just be a little laggier for your power goals but if you later wanted more power it is good for 400whp.

They sell adapters for the smaller turbos you could use but that stacked on top of the CT adapter would be pretty tall and might cause clearance issues depending on the setup.

A 20g might be the best option if you are set on using the CT20 manifold to minimize the adapter usage. It is basically the same as a normal T3/T4 turbo, just cheaper and more rebuildable.

85celicagthatchback

Ya that's why I asked about just running a t3/t4 there's a local guy selling one on clist for a buck fifty with a .60 at how would that do ?

Texas_Ace

The AR size is a very small part of the overall turbo. The wheel sizes are far more important.

I am also always VERY leery of craigslist turbos, never know what you are getting or it's condition.

A 20g would spool more or less the same and they run about $300 on ebay. T3/T4 would work as well but like I said, the cheap ones are throw away turbos and the good ones cost only a little less then a nice modern turbo.

85celicagthatchback

Ya Idk about the wheel sizes he didn't have that posted and its brand new still in the packaging so Idk ill call him and ask for the specs and see wjat he says

85celicagthatchback

The only 20g and 16g turbos I can find are the three bolt ones for EVO's and Sti's.

Texas_Ace

You can go with a T3/T4, they work fine until they don't. By the time it goes though you may decide to move on to something better anyways.

s13drifter88

WOW! That piston looks just like at 6 from my RB25 the night I tore it down after my wastegate stuck shut. I was destroying a friends procharged GTO when I looked up and saw my EVC6 and pyrometer both pegged out. Before I could get out of it, pop... James Bond hit the smoke screen.

Also, a 14b or 16g will more than likely be an MHI flange unless you get one of the aftermarket units which will either be a t25 or t3 flange. Forced Performance has a TD05 20G in t3. That would be a solid performer and leave you a little room to grow if/when you invest in a boost controller
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...de=Turbo-Mitsu

And ebay company, Kinugawa, has some nice turbos too. Pretty affordable as well. I did a TD05-18G on a friends SR and it MERCS!!! Been raping strong for about a year now, daily driven at 1bar+ and never missed a drift event south of the Mason Dixon line.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...at=0&_from=R40

Texas_Ace

The problem with those is that for that price he can get a billet modern turbo. Comp turbo makes some alone with PTE. They are better turbos but cost more, really depends on his budget and goals.

A throw away T3/T4 might be a good starting point. Let him try boost out and see where he wants to go from there.

s13drifter88

Crazy as this may sound to post in Yota forum, crawl around some nissan forums (Nico is a good one) and find a used S14 or S15 slivia T28. The S14 will be a journal bearing turbo (60mm, 60Trim, .64a/r) and the S15 will be the exact same thing but ball bearing (GT2560R in Garrets books), both internal wastegate. Used S15 will be about $450 or less and S14 will be 300ish. Very popular turbo's for 4cyl engines. Forced performance even introduced one some years ago called the "Big 28" done in 14b housings. They offer insane response and make upwards of 300rwhp on our engines, should see you past 200hp easily and be a thrill to drive. Just find a manifold that will accept a T25 flange (Ebay) and bolt it up.

Note:
S15 - 10psi wastegate
S14 - 7 psi wastegate

s13drifter88

Here's a good one
http://forums.nicoclub.com/garrett-t...e-t568344.html

Texas_Ace

Not a bad idea, Admittedly I am not expert on turbos this small, I generally don't pay attention to anything less then ~58mm and 600whp+.

I also don't pay much attention to nissans which is kinda funny since I had a very nice Z31 turbo a few years ago. Only car I have sold that I truly wish I had not.

s13drifter88

My roommate has a GORGEOUS Z31 turbo. We did his RB25 swap about a year ago and last month we did his SC61 with 740cc injectors and EMS. Such a sick and sexy car

s13drifter88

so find a nissan t28, bolt it to that 22r with a good set of RC or Deatschwerks (spell check) 550's and tune for low or a flat 11's and enjoy your compression and cam. Consider SDS stand alone and convert to LS coilpacks for unlimited timing control too. If you really wanna get bawse, look into a J and S knock guard and get to making some single cam, 8 valve goodness

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

Texas_Ace

Timing is FAR more important then AFR's for keeping the engine together. Particularly with a toyota engine.

SOOOO many DSM/EVO/STI tuners will tune MR2's like they tune those other cars, claim great performance only to have the car blow up a few months later.

The J&S is great though, I have one and love it. The headphone output is great, although the megasquirt should have the headphone output as well.

s13drifter88

In my world of Nissans, we frequently boost the single and twin cam KA24's that came in many vehicles. Timing is so critical in those engines between their weak cast pistons and brittle ringlands, small head bolts and narrow bearings. The slightest amount of ping in one can lift a head, crack pistons and flat spot bearings. Last one I tuned using Nistune, I got ahold of an old AEM knock amp which picks up ping waaayyyyyy before the factory sensor can to monitor it. I ended up tuning around 11 flat at full boost (1.1 bar) and then added timing till torque stopped rising on the dyno, the pulled 1 degree all the way across the board from the boost transition area and up and added 5% of fuel across the board in the knock fuel maps and pulled 7 degrees of timing across the board from the stock map and sub'd that in for the knock timing map. Entirely stock engine, 312,000 miles, Garrett 2860RS with Nismo 555cc injectors, 298whp 274wtq, full boost at 2400rpm in 4th gear. Quick response drift car and a total blast to drive. No pause button like my SC6262 has lol