85celicagthatchback

I must have writen it wrong I'm putting a 67cc head which is the stock turbo size instead of the re head which is 54

Texas_Ace

Well that makes more sense but that is sure not what you said in the above post:

If the combustion chambers are bigger in stock form then that should be fine. Opening them up manually is not a good idea unless you really know what you are doing. Plus a smaller combustion chamber is a good thing anyways from a combustion standpoint.

I would still do some more research before you jump into this project. I have seen too many guys start tossing parts at a car only to end up with a blown engine or a setup they are not happy with.

This sounds like your first boosted motor. I would start off very simple, stock engine setup, add turbo, see how you like it. Then decide what you want to do after you experience it.

You may decide you want more top end, more low end or most likely just plain more power. Virtually no one is ever happy with the power they start out looking for.

s13drifter88

Here is a link to Work Turbo. They do a lot of custom built turbochargers like Forced Performance and some other companies. CT26 I mentioned earlier is not featured on their website (but neither was my old FP Red in 2871 housings). You can call and Reed or Taylor one can give you a price.

http://www.workturbochargers.com/ind...id=53&TreeId=7

I couldnt tell you anything about how a CT26 performs, I can only tell you that the turbo I mentioned was in machined, ported and extrude honed housings. Obviously so cause otherwise how would you fit a P trim turbine wheel or a 60-1 compressor wheel in 26 housings lol.

The car that used this was dyno'd on Lane Culver's Dyno Dynamics. A local around here, mainly specializes in LS swaps in FD RX7's and AP1 S2K's. He might still have some info or video of the MR2 He can be contacted at Culver Auto Specialties.

http://culverautospecialties.com/

85celicagthatchback

so now that where clear about my compression ratio being 9:1 when i go boosted what else with my set is "wrong" yes its my first boosted car. ive driven a mr2 with a 3sgte at 10psi all stock loved the instant kick in the pants take off and the other turbo car i drove was a sti slow as ˟˟˟˟! way to much lag turbo didnt pull boost til 3500 by the time u hit boost for a second u already had to shift cuz u are at redline. so i guess u could say i want my car to perform like a mr2 im happy with my hp i have now its fun as hell to drive but i just want a different car then everyone else everyone puts 7mgte or a 1jz or a 2jz in these car so why not build a nice 22ret

85celicagthatchback

ya ill give em a call and see what size turbo they say to run. so on the other note so now that we cleared up im talking about th ct26 off a supra or mr2 would that be a goo turbo for 12psi and 200to 275 whp in a 4 cylinder?

s13drifter88

And your compression ration is fine for boost as long as you can fuel it. Honda owners have been boosting their 11:1 type r b series and k series engines for years. Usually tuning around low 11 afr's (11-11.3). Generally tuning for boost, mid to high 11's is ideal... some people even get into low 12's. My CA18 is 9.5:1 and I tuned for high 11's (11.8-11.9 full boost 22psi). Im running nistune, for yours SDS would be a good system. A set of ID725's and something like a precision 3231 would make you a nice little combo to accomodate your cam and portwork. A .48 a/r housing would give you CRAZY FAST spool but might start to choke a little up top. The .63 would give some very modest street manners with excellent performance across the board.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...bocharger.html

85celicagthatchback

well with th factory ecu 6k is my limit which sucks cuz my engine now wants to pull to 7k. but thats where the mega squirt comes in. im mostlikly gone have redline be 7200ish depending like u said if the turbo i go with doesn't choke that high

85celicagthatchback

so would it bebetter to stay around 10;1 and boost say 8 to 10 pounds sence my pistons are my limit factor

Texas_Ace

You will be ok with 9:1, just be careful with the tune. Water injection is still a real good idea though.

For you I would go with a TD0x turbo, the 16g should work good. Seeing as the turbo setup is custom anyways the TD series of turbos is very modular and if you are going cheap they are ok turbos. Lots of options to change things up down the road.

A 16g on your setup should spool great and easily make your power goals.

Honda does not = Toyota. MR2's have one heck of a time with even 9:1 compression ratios on pump gas. Now on E85 they can run 12:1 or more but that is a different ballgame.

Toyota motors are generally much more knock prone then honda motors.

Also got to remember that he is limited to 91oct, that plays a big role in how much boost/compression ratio you can run.

I also have not seen any mention of a standalone, so if using the stock ECU he can't tune the car and will be stuck with whatever the tune on the ECU is.

I still say go look at what others have done with that engine. There should be a good amount of data on it by now, go see what works and what doesn't.

Texas_Ace

If staying 10:1 means leaving the engine more or less stock, then yes.

Just play with the boost slowly and move a water injection kit up to the top of your list. $500 for a nice kit is a lot cheaper then a new motor. Plus you will be able to make more power safer.

85celicagthatchback

10.5:1 with 6 psi is around 15;1 under boost compression and 10.5;1 with 8psi is 16:1 10.5 with 10psi is 17.6:1 and 10.5:1 with 12psi is 19:1 and is i go down to 10:1 the compression ratio drops 1point from the under boost compression ratios so which one would be the limit? tht sounds like alot of compression !!!!!!!!!!

85celicagthatchback

in my post on my set up it says mega squirt which is a standalone ecu system. ive said it many times the plan i had was to lower my compression get all the stuff on my list done befor removing the stock ct-20 that means running a stand alone ecu then going to a good turbo

Texas_Ace

Ignore those calculators, they rarely mean anything in the real world.

What matters is the power, you may not be able to run as much boost but you will make more power with less. Don't go into this with any pre-conceptions on how much boost you need to run. I would personally start off around 4-5psi and then slowly build up as you see how it likes it.

The key to making this work will be good intercooling and if you want to run more then low boost, some way to raise the octane. Water injection being the cheapest, easiest and most effective besides E85. Do you have E85 in your area?

Texas_Ace

Megasquirt is great, just be sure to take the tuning nice and slow and don't get greedy.

Far as the turbo goes, get the turbo you will use long term from the start. There is no reason to swap turbos later. A larger turbo will have less backpressure and that will make it easier to make power, particularly with high compression.

85celicagthatchback

and 10.5:1 is what my car is runing now and no its not the stock compression ratio a stock 22re is 9:1 and a 22ret is 7.5:1. so 10.5 :1 with the stock 5-6psi for now with big injectors ?

Texas_Ace

So the car is running right this very min? It has 10.5:1 compression ratio and is driving fine?

Do you have E85 around you?

85celicagthatchback

im in chico ca or northern ca. the closest e85 is sacromento i can get 110 sanoco from race shops and 114 trick gas from the local race track or methanol. ave gas from the loacl air port but e85 im not sure its anywhere close to me lol

85celicagthatchback

yes ive driven the car about 30k sence i built the 10.5:1 motor ive dynoed it mutiple times trying to find the right injetor size. i was first using the stock 22re ecu and mustang injectors then finaly went to turbo 2ret injectors when i got all the factory turbo stuff and runs great and i take it out every weekend and show the local honda boyz what time a day it is and stockish 5.0 mustangs

Texas_Ace

Too bad, E85 would make this whole project a walk in the park. Might be worth a quick internet search to see if there is a station you didn't know about.

If no E85 then water/meth injection are the way to go. Get yourself a nice kit with a failsafe and then you will be fine.

With a good water/meth kit, careful tuning and some time you should be able to get a really nice setup going. It will also help cool your IAT's making it even less likely to knock.

Here are some videos I made on the subject of meth injection that might help:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...eature=mh_lolz

Texas_Ace

Good, if it is running good then don't mess with the internals IMO. Max I would do at this point is cams internally.

Get the turbo setup sorted out, get the megasquirt setup and tuned, then you can see where you stand and go from there. If you want more power then you can either run more meth injection or drop the compression ratio later.

Like I said, jump right to the turbo you will run long term, don't mess with a baby turbo.