wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

:jessica: I think he got mad that we told him the truth . Being we are dealing with a lot more weight in a 4Runner or Pick Up 4x4 at that.

It is like any engine swap you do the harness correct or a hack job that lets you sit all the time.

It takes time .

Then getting all kinds of power out of a 22rtec gets real expensive real fast the cost for the gains at least to me is not worth it.

annoyingrob

yeah I priced out building my 22R-TE for some power, but realized I could make twice the power for the same amount of money in something like a 7M

Hence why my 22R-TE is sitting in pieces and there's a 7M-GE and a 7M-GTE waiting to drop in.


to answer the original question, yes you can use the RTE auto ECU on a 5 speed. It's more or less the same.

Snowfork

Are you willing to part with some of that R series goodness? lol

annoyingrob

Honestly it's not really worth parting out. The block has a major rod knock, it's going to need new rods and possibly a new crank. The head injectors and ECU is on my 22R-E right now. The CT20 turbo is shot. The only thing really worth parting is maybe the turbo manifold, and that'll probably be going on my Celica with an extra CT26 I have.

Snowfork

I'm picking up a 22R block and depending on if it is early or late block, I might ask you for pointers on the 22RET or it might turn into a hybrid. At which time, I will do the rest of the research myself.

annoyingrob

here's a hint: the late block is the same as the turbo block. The turbo block simply has blanks for the oil feed and drain drilled out. The turbo head has a SLIGHTLY larger dish to the top of the combustion chamber, but for all intents and purposes, they're the same. The turbo pistons are commonly available.

Snowfork

Yes, the turbo block is the same as an EFI block but with the machine work already done.

85celicagthatchback

No I didn't run off got busy building a 5vz and installing it and a 3vz and built 2 22res and a nasty head and am building a 22ret so been busy building and working on other peoples stuff so haven't had the time for mine.

85celicagthatchback

most recent update if it matters got all factory the turbo stuff. havent finished my head for when i go turbo. but im running the turbo ecu and injectors sence my engine needed the bigger cc injectors toe start with. even though the turbo injectors are the same ohms as the early 22re injectors the stock re ecu wasnt able to go to a lean enough setting to run the injectors so i decided to use to turbo ecu and runs perfect still a little lean but i guess thats do to having a 180cfm head,and intake and 10.5:1 compression.


i am going to be adding the turbo for ˟˟˟˟s and giggles to my engine yes still with the 10.5:1 compression and run the factory boost once my 440cc 7mgte injectors come in so i can see how well the stock 22ret ecu will control everything. then the head will get changed and the compression will go down to 9:1 (stock22re compression) and i will be boosting 6psi to start with then work up to 8 to 10 psi without an inter cooler then later that will go on and water meth to hit 12-16psi depending if i can find a good supply of methonal

annoyingrob

The injector resistance has nothing to do with it. The injectors have a physically larger orifice. The pulsewidth maps on the N/A ECU is assuming a specific flow rate, your turbo injectors will flow more at the same pulsewidth thereby running very rich. The actual amount of adjustment the ECU can make is minimal, and only at idle and cruise.

s13drifter88

Static X motorsport here in Huntsville AL only made like 265whp on a Dyno Dynamics with a turbo 22r and its had some big dough in it.

85celicagthatchback

ya that car hardly made anyhp cause its over turboed listen to the video.

and i neverthough about that with the injectors guess thats why everyone does the afm supra swap with biggerinjectors.

85celicagthatchback

does anyone have any input on the turbo to use have a good ct20 but was think mite need to go to a ct26 for 200whp+ but yet u can buy a god speen ct26 with 16g compresser wheel which makes it a gt35 for cheaper? does anyone think the gt35 is to big as seeing in that video of the celica that was posted its only running a gt30 turbo and is still spooling or he just has a ˟˟˟˟y tune?

Texas_Ace

You need to do some more research. The CT26 and GT35 are not even in the same ball park and upgrading the compressor on those is pointless (unless talking the supra CT-26 which is almost pointless).

The GT35 is a 600whp turbo, so yeah it is a little bigger then you want.

For you a good turbo for 200-300whp would be a TD05 14b/g if I had to take a shot in the dark, I never even think about messing around with power levels that low.

The TD05 turbos are cheap, easy to find and easy to rebuild. It will most likely take some custom exhaust work to make it work though but I assume that will apply to any turbo you use.

Also if planning to boost with that compression ratio, you will need some form of octane booster. It looks like you live in Cali, which only has 91oct. That will not play nice with your compression ratio and boost. If you had 93 it would not be as big of a deal.

With 91oct move the water injection kit up to the top of the list, you will need it to keep everything alive. Or convert to E85 if you have it.

s13drifter88

Can you please elaborate of how it was over turbo'd? Esp being a 2.6 stroker motor, cammed and running SDS EM4. Thats like saying my 3076 was too big for my SR, or mt TD07-25G was too big for my RB25 or my Precision SC6262 is to big for my current CA18.

Anyways, for 200whp a 16G would easily suffice. Dont get them confused though as a 16G is nowhere close to a GT35. A 16G is about a T28, more accurately closer to a Garrett 2860RS. An 18G would be pretty hot, did one of those on a buddies SR a few months ago (TD05-18g 8cm) which is close to a 2871r.

If you wanna use a CT26, Reed at Work Turbochargers in Birmingham AL is doing billet 60-1 wheels with P trim turbine wheels in machined, ported and extrude honed 26 housings. MR2 with a jdm 3S swap layed down a little over 400rwhp with one of these with a set of ID725 injectors and Apexi Power FC. Just an option to consider

Texas_Ace

Link? The CT26 is a horrible turbo. Bad spool and worse power.

The issues boil down to the turbine though, the upgraded CT-27 versions have an upgraded turbine that helps it a lot but still the record on them is ~350whp and only on 1 or 2 cars. Generally they are still a sub 300whp turbo.

If all that work is done to the turbine side it is possible that it could work but at what cost? Also 400whp on a stock 3sgte on pump gas would be a first.

85celicagthatchback

texas ace i was just going off what the ebay discribtion said. its a ct-26 supra with a big not the small 16g compressor wheel. its on ebay if u type in ct26. yes i get thats a low hp for u but remember im running cast pistons not forged. why would 9:1 or 8.5:1 be to much compression for 14psi or lower? i just dont want a ˟˟˟˟ ton of turbo lag yet i dont want to start boosting driving at 70 my car turns 2800 at 75mhp. what turbo do u feel i should go with my mechanie shop say a t3/t4 ? or ct-26 off a 7mgte ? any input on that ?

85celicagthatchback

texas-ace plan is lowering down to 9:1 compression by opening the chamber in the head im running now, running flat top pistons, hemi style head to lower the compression ratio),metal shim head gaskit .035 thin 5 layer, arp head studs, .475 lift cam 230 degrees of duration @ .050 114 lobe center, adjustable cam gear,440cc (7mgte injectors) maybe 550cc's if needed, ported intake,stock turbo cast iron exhaust manifold, 2.25 cat back exhaust, eletric fans,turbo yet to be decided (ct-20) for now jdmcenter.com intercooler, 2.25 or 2.5 piping depending on if itll fit, mega squirt pnp with sqenchal injection upgrade, then after i figure out a better turbo and get i tuned good water meth a start turning up the boost. and yes ill have boost gauge fuel psi gauge and wide band gauge to moniter whats going on. that sound like a decent set up?

85celicagthatchback

oh ya who makes a good fuel psi regulator?

Texas_Ace

I take it you have never driven a boosted car before? I don't think you understand how it works.

Earlier you mentioned 10:1 compression. Which is ok for E85 or with water injection but on 91oct and some boost that is asking for problems.

The compression ratio won't really effect spool per se, it will just make more power per psi so it will "feel" like it spools faster.

I would not mess with the head, there is a reason that true hemis were only around for a few years, they are ULTRA knock prone due to not having any quench area. Leave the head alone, if you want ot lower the compression ratio get some low compression pistons.

You also want the fastest spooling turbo for your power level, there is no reason at all to go laggier then needed. You will only be in boost if you go WOT, just cruising you will be driving like normal.

You need to do a LOT more research before you do anything. Get on the site linked earlier, they should have a lot more info on how best to go about your goals. What you are planning is NOT it though, that much I am pretty much sure of.

Honestly I would rather use a 100% stock engine and bolt a turbo to it then what you are planning. Best to keep things simple if you don't know what you are doing and then build as your knowledge builds.