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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 02:44 PM
  #121  
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Ive heard mixed things about Squirt's built in boost control (creep and spike ect) but you never know if its the unit or some other factor like wastegate, pressure reference lines/fittings, user error. I dont have a lot of experience with MS. I mainly know Nistune, SDS and Power FC with its bull˟˟˟˟˟ Gameboy controller.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 02:47 PM
  #122  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
The MS2/MS3 boost control works fine when properly setup, it is a little more basic then some systems but that can be a good thing if you take the time to dial it in.

Most guys just set it up wrong if they have issues. Same with most ECU based boost control systems, they are only as good as the user.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #123  
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Yeah, thats why I try to give the ones I dont have experience with the benefit of the doubt in most cases cause so much negative feedback out there is commonly coming from inexperienced users and majority of the time, its such simple errors.
*PLEASE READ USER MANUAL BEFORE USE*
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:13 PM
  #124  
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Two weeks and ill have the wide band and water methanol and boost gauge no megasquirt yet due to being $600 will post after my next and last n/a dyno run befor turboing the car if I get the methanol kit befor I dyno I may try it out. I'll be using my window resavor for the tank for a sliper look.
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:19 PM
  #125  
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When I go turbo ill ne installing arp head studs, a new head gaskit just cuz, different cam,440cc 7mgte injectors,stock ft manifold and stock ct20, ill be running the stock ecu and stock.turbo air flow meter, water meth kit and a wide band and boost gauge to moniter the engine. Hope to push 8psi maybe 9 then go intercooler, megasquirt and then last 20g turbo with a t3 exhaust housing flang. I will post whp numbers as I bolt more things on. And hit the 350 mark and should run 12's when I'm done maybe faster. Thank you gota for all the help so far
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:43 AM
  #126  
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Go for it, Personally I would not even consider doing this without the water injection on cali 91oct. On 93oct it would not much such a big deal.

If using the stock ECU then it becomes even more important since you can't tune it. Toyota runs a ton of timing on stock tunes which is bad for knock.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:11 AM
  #127  
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First 200, then 300 now 350 huh???

http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...p?topic=1886.0
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:16 AM
  #128  
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200 for the stock turbo 300 is the goal for a bigger turbo and standalone and 9:1 compression so 10-16psi should beable to be run then dont see how my gaols are to far out there they should be farly easy i would think
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #129  
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From: DFW TEXAS BABY!
Originally Posted by s13drifter88
Thats why I keep telling him to go to the sites that know way more about his setup then us. They will simply know a ton more then us about what works and what doesn't.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #130  
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A 350whp 22r is like a stock internal 500hp turbo ka. It can be done, it has been done. But it was a ticking time bomb from the first turn of the key. The power record held on my same CA18 is only 1016whp and it lasted 1 race day. Even at my power numbers, wayyy less than that it wont last. If its disposable to you and you can fund it go for it, if you want it to last then make 250 and be happy
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #131  
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Even at only 544rwhp, thats still pretty rough on a sleeved, all forged and ARP assembled 1.8 liter
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #132  
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I live in Madison, and I wanna see some of this stuff. And I'm also looking for suggestions and convincing to turbo my 3RZ...
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:43 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by rokblok
I live in Madison, and I wanna see some of this stuff. And I'm also looking for suggestions and convincing to turbo my 3RZ...
Go turbo for sure, only way to really get more power. They take to it very well too.

Check out customtacos.com for more details on that, they do turbo setups all the time over there.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #134  
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I will do that. Thanks TA
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:11 PM
  #135  
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most my internals arent stock will see what happends when i get the swap under way im porting the stock turbo manifold (ex) today seeing as i have to wait til next week to dyno my set now before i go turbo.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #136  
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Have it extrude honed as well. That can make a significant difference. Idk about yours but with our engines (SR20 and CA18) our OE manifolds are good to 400hp with porting and extrude honing. Plus cast durability is hard to beat
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:46 PM
  #137  
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I have a solid 22ret I would be willing to part from with a right price all it needs is head gasket, tore it down when I bought the truck wanted more power but everyone wanted an arm and leg to build the motor and for how temperamental I have heard these motors are I am just deciding to pull it out and swap a 4.3 chevy
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:39 PM
  #138  
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I'm porting the manifold that's where I'm limited is what that manifold let's me do
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #139  
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i found a couple people on youtube with wrx's runing the aquastealth water meth kit and by what it shows about the set up and emailing them ive chosen to order that kit and at 275 with dual presure swithes its a nice set up and like i said befor i plan to use my window wiper bottle to hold the water methanol mix. but thats one thing i dont get do you just mix straight water and methanol together? a local performance store cares methanol for 4.30 a gallon so not to bed. and how do you know how big of injecters you need in the methanol kit? and how much % you should run?
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #140  
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Yes you mix it directly together and people mix differently for different power/boost levels. Iirc, the snow kit I installed on an Audi A4 a few years ago recommended between 50/50 and 70/30 (meth/water). Whatever kit you get should come with mixture info (dont hold me to that) but you can always search around and get a ballpark idea.
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