Google is your friend buddy, it is a very powerful tool. With great power, comes great responsibility.

This is straight from Snow Performances website.

http://www.snowperformance.net/faqs_...?type=gasoline

6. What fluid can I use in my system?
• Boost Juice®: This is the best fluid to use and is Snow Performance’s 49% methanol, 51% water mixture that can be shipped to your door or picked up at a local dealer. (If you are using your washer reservoir as the injection tank, Boost Juice® is a great washer fluid – works as a de-icer!)
• Windshield Washer fluid: Only if it is blue in color and rated for -20 deg F. It should have no special additives. This means it is safe to use and made of about 30% methanol, 70% water. If it is another color or another temperature rating, do not use it.
• You can “spike” your Blue -20 Washer fluid to a 50% mixture by adding 3 12OZ yellow bottles of Heet® gas-line-antifreeze to every gallon of washer fluid.
• Mix your own: You just need to make sure the methanol is “neat” and contains no lubricants or other additives. We recommend a 50% mixture.
• Ethanol: It is not as good as methanol, but it can be used as a 2nd best option if you can’t find methanol. It can also be mixed with water up to 50%.
• Do NOT use E85 or any other fluid with gasoline mixed in. It will destroy the fluid delivery part of your Boost Cooler® and instantly void the warranty.
• Isopropyl/Denatured Alcohols: These can be used, but are not as good as methanol. They have a lower BTU, or energy content, and a lower latent heat of vaporization (fancy way of saying how much heat they absorb) as well as a lower octane rating compared to methanol.

 

so im debating on widebands i found a aem for 160 or a innovate for 155 which do you guys feel is better ? going to get tonight hope you guys can show some insight tonight

 

so i cant just buy methanol from my local dirt race track and run 100% methanol in my washer bottle?

 

If its an Innovate LC1, its trash. The controller in the cable craps out. The AEM UEGO is a great one, its what Im using. Yes you can buy meth but mix it properly. The water is what adds cooling properties, the meth mixes with it to burn it and also acts as an octane booster in your intake charge. Ive also read of some people spraying water/meth pre turbo to increase the efficiency of a turbo by cooling the inlet air, compressor housing and wheel but Im skeptical of how much that might upset the balance of the wheel and shaft

 

I have made several videos on meth injection, I recommend you watch them https://www.youtube.com/user/TexasAceAA?feature=mhee

I looked up the aquastealth kit, SCREW that. If you must cheap out with a stage 1 kit then go with devils own, it is cheaper and FAR nicer. Uses the better aquatech pump, better trigger switch, better nozzles and overall better parts.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...-stage-1a.html

I still HIGHLY recommend the coolingmist CMGS with failsafe. You are taking a risk by running a kit without a failsafe and any issues down the road can only be blamed on you.

Yes the washer fluid bottle is fine, watch my videos above, I go into all of that.

The mix of water/methanol you use will depend on your car, it is a trial and error deal. Use distilled water and 100% pure methanol with no additives or top end lube added only.

You can run any mixture you want from 100% water to 100% methanol. I have run them all. What works best depends on your car. 50/50 is a good starting point.

$4.30 a gallon for methanol is not that bad, I pay $3/gal.

Nozzle sizing is another trial and error deal, ALWAYS better off erroring on too big of a nozzle vs too small. Too big will just cause a loss of some power, too small could hurt something.

For your setup I would start out by asking for a ~7gph and a ~10gph nozzle and see how that works. Then you can go larger if needed.

Yes, you can run 100% methanol in the washer fluid tank, did this for a few years myself.

 

This is all kinda correct but doesn't seem to fully understand how all of this works.

The water does cool the charge but that is far from all it does. The octane rating for water is infinite. So thus a little water goes a long way for increasing octane level and is great if octane is your limiting factor.

The methanol actually cools the air charge faster then water due to how fast it changes states. So while water may technically absorb more heat, it takes so long to do it that it is not until inside the cylinder that it happens. This is not bad per se but different.

The water does not bring any energy to the table, it simply allows you to maximize the energy you already have by not knocking. The downside is it takes up room that could otherwise be fuel or air.

Methanol on the other hand does the same things, it's octane rating is between 120-140 depending on who you ask. It does bring energy to the table though allowing for more overall power.

Pre-turbo injection works by a complicated series of physics principles. In a nut shell it allows the blades to grab more air easier. Thus netting a better efficiency and more overall airflow.

It must be done correctly though or you risk blade degradation if the droplets hitting it are too big. The nozzles needs to be placed at the ideal location directly in front of the compressor as close as possible so that the droplets never hit the compressor cover and have time to beed into larger droplets.

Also if running an intercooler you want the nozzle placed at the intercooler exit. Anything pre-intercooler will reduce the efficiency of the intercooler and lead to higher final temps.

In a nut shell don't mess with pre-turbo injection at this point, that is an advanced setup for people that know what they are doing and not running an intercooler.

 

Actually water does bring a level of energy to the table. I read an article some years ago that stated a way that water injection with meth and a certain psi yada yada (would have to find it for an accurate quote) that the water could separate becoming separate hydrogen and oxygen. Correct me if Im wrong but hydrogen and oxygen both are what send the shuttle to orbit after the solid booster would burn out. I may have something out of order here since its been umph-teen years since I went to space camp lol. Either way, if separated both the gases that compose water will burn. Ive got some googling to do cause I would like make this post a little more accurate and/or on point.

Has anyone in here ever experimented with alcohol sprays on an intercooler. I read in a DSM forum people arguing it over C02 and nitrous sprayers.

 

 

It is a myth that water will separate, the only people that say this have not tried or and/or have zero proof to backup there statements.

I had it explained to me once why it would not happen but that went over even my head.

I know from personal experience that when injecting pure water my ARF's were not effected (until I started injecting soo much that the engine stater to bog so thus it got richer, which is the opposite of the water splitting).

If it actually split it would cause you to lean out, much like nitrous. It would also be used on every single engine from the factory and every single race engine.

In reality your AFR's will not change noticably with pure water unless you are injecting too much (bogging and thus reducing power) or it can lean you out if you inject the right amount and it drops the IAT's meaning more air gets into the cylinder and thus more power is made.

Now water has its place but fuel is not it.

 

ok but i figured id go with dual pressure switches for the meth kit wouldnt that be better? and this is the innovate wideband i was thinking of getting.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovate-MTX...3e7e4f&vxp=mtr is this a good one?

 

or the aem 30-4100

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-Turbo-...b2aabc&vxp=mtr what about this turbo kind wanting to stay with a waste gate.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-T3-T4-KK...335659&vxp=mtr

or this one sence its a twin scroll doesnt that help spooling?

 

the hard part is finding a 20g with a t3 exhaust manifold mount or id go with a 20g.

 

That kit you linked to sucks, the dual pressure switch makes no sense to be honest, you either have a progressive kit or an on/off kit. The parts they are using are sub-par older style parts and it costs more too boot.

Get the devils own, they are a much better brand and you know they will be around if you have a problem.

Search online for reviews on the widebands, the inovates strong point is it uses standards wideband sensors vs the AEM using pricy harder to find sensors.

If you go T3/T4 turbo then it is just a matter of picking what you want, they are all throw away turbos so figure on replacing it before too terribly long unless you luck out.

That turbos specs looks good for your setup, can't speak for build quality on any of those cheap turbos though.

Twin scroll only works if you have a proper twin scroll manifold/wastegate setup which I doubt you do so don't mess with it.

The 20g is just a more reliable long term turbo. Like I said before the cheap throw away turbos work fine when they work. But don't expect to get a very long life out of them except by luck.

 

Which would spool better ? And ya I read more about the devils own and ill be getting the kit you said. And ill be getting the innovate wide band I linked too earlyer. How long would you think it would last ? Trying to do what you said and start with the big turbo first?

 

If you want an Innovate find the big, old, obnoxious 2 button game boy LM-1 that looks hideous on your dash. Probably the best one they had. AEM UEGO or a PLX. As stated above, forget twin scroll if you dont have the mani for it. Ebay turbo's are hit and miss man. Its a crap shoot with majority of them. Kinugawa is a good one, I can speak for them myself. Put a TD05-18G 8cm on a red top SR and it rapes hard. Theres been some speculation is many suby and mitsu forums that they are true MHI centers with copy wheels. Now I dont know how true that is and Im not stating it for fact but I can say they are stout and well built

Here you go. Its big, pretty and will make your power while surviving applied exhaust gasses. Its also external wastegate which will let you make a little more power from the smaller 8cm hotside since the external wastegate will evacuate exhaust preturbo straight from the mani and help prevent the turbo from choking. Also a V band turbine outlet so fabbing and clocking a downpipe will be much simpler and it comes with the V band collar and clamp.

20G

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-Tur...8a615e&vxp=mtr

18G

These boost a little sooner and make some great power, its what I used on the above mentioned SR, just in T25 exhaust/Silvia compressor housings. Think Garrett GT2871, just not $1200

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-Tur...381b0d&vxp=mtr

16G

This will hit the soonest of them all. The 16G has been a very popular turbo with DSM and Suby owners for years boosting many to over 350 all wheel hp and making some very entertaining track terrors with excellent street manners. If spool is a concern this may be the turbo for you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-Tur...94afc6&vxp=mtr

S15 Silvia Spec R T28 (Garrett GT2560R)

If you can settle for around a 300whp, exhaust powered supercharger (lol) this is your turbo. They boost insanely quick and hit like hammers. First SR I swapped I bolted one of these to it with RC 550's and Nistune and that car was the most fun little nightmare I had driven. Boost was near instant and the power was linear across the board. You would need a T25 exhaust mani for this turbo.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-240SX...af4aa8&vxp=mtr

Isis turbo (Very VERY similar to an FP Big 28)

If your budget is a little tight you can consider this. They make fair power, response is satisfactory and the reviews on quality and performance are positive. Read them yourself. You would need a T25 exhaust mani for this turbo

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...n-SR20DET.html

 

Oh and if you decide that you must have a T3/T4, forget the Ebay junkers and gambles. For a buck or two more you can get a real, quality turbo that wont possibly (likely) let go and leave you NA'ing it home or sending compressor wheel shrapnel into your engine. The intercooler NEVER catches it all lol

http://www.enjukuracing.com/categori...Turbochargers/

 

Run this to be like me HAHA jk. Mine doesnt have the nice pretty compressor housing though. Kinda want to bite the bullet and order one cause its so SEXY!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-SC...929bdd&vxp=mtr

Any more turbo questions now???

 

Ya know of any for like 300?