well after i get the 20g turbo or t3 turbo and go to 9:1 with say 12-16psi then what? wouldnt it be better to get a bigger kit now and just run smaller nozzles? and get bigger ones when i change turbos?

 

I would honestly leave the engine alone and get the turbo setup running with the water/meth as it is and see where you stand. No reason to lower the compression unless you have to.

I assume that the weak link in those pistons is the ringlands like most other Toyota cast pistons. When they go there is usually no real damage so might as well leave it alone and see what it does. Just keep the boost low at first until you see how it runs and don't do it until you have the water/meth hooked up.

You would be surprised what I have gotten away with when using water/meth injetion.

 

update on some of the turbo stuff ive been doing is finished porting well ruff porting my mami and ported the compressor inlet housing befor the wheel yes i took it off befor u started porting. now my mechaninest is sending the mami to be extrude honed and then ill polish the inside with the cartrage rolls when i get it back.

 

true just and thats why i havent add the turbo yet on top of not dynoing the car for the last time n/a is cuz i havent goten the water methanol kit

 

yes the pistons are my weakest link and i just figured sence the bigger turbo is gone flow more! air that lowering the compression would make it where i would just beable to turn everything up from there and never have to worry about hitting my limit then have to take it all apart again!

 

As long as you keep knock at bay you would be surprised what engines can hold.

Stock engines that regularly max out at ~17psi on pump gas can run 30psi+ on E85 for example and live for years just fine. I have seen 350whp pump gas engines make 500whp+ for years on E85. Meth injection is the same deal just a little less potent.

It is all in the tune.

 

true glad i have free dyno time lol

 

ill post a video of the dyno pulls i do next wed. and of the turbo set up when i get it done on youtube.

 

s13 do u still have the tdo3 turbo u linked to a few weeks ago?

 

Go back a few pages and find my long post with all the turbo options in it. Word of advice, really really good advice, invest in a J&S knock defencer.

 

Here ya go. Get this in the .48ar, 4 bolt, no wastegate hole option. Itll do everything you want and then some. Quality Precision turbocharger, very affordable price. Run a -3AN line (made to appropriate length) with a .062" oil restrictor with this turbo so you dont blow the seals. 'Nuff said.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...bocharger.html - Turbo

http://www.frsport.com/Turbo-Oil-Fee...T3_p_7843.html - Flange

http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10017-Tur...-_p_16398.html - Restrictor

http://www.frsport.com/Oil-Drain-Ret...R_p_10246.html - Oil drain

No more turbo questions

 

I'll save you some more trouble.

http://www.frsport.com/Tial-38mm-Ext...er_p_1252.html - Wastegate

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22R-22RE-Tur...7a20f6&vxp=mtr - Cast Iron Manifold

 

And for your power, ditch those 440's in your signature. Try on a set of these. They'd be enough you could tune for low 11's (11.2-11.3) and not need the water/meth (No Im circling back to that argument at all, just a statement).

 

The AFR's are not the issue or problem, octane is. Dumping more fuel past optimal (which is around ~13.5:1 for gas) is only done to cool the cylinder in hopes of keeping knock at bay. It is very crude and far from optimal. It also has very tight limits on what it can do, you simply can't get more octane for nothing.

With higher octane fuels such as E85 you don't need to dump more fuel to keep knock at bay and so you can run at the optimal ~.85 lambda that E85 makes the best power at all the time, even on 800whp+ cars. I have seen 800whp cars on E85 tuned to almost .90 lambda (Or around 13:1 on a gas wideband).

AFR's primary purposes is to keep combustion temps in check. The octane of the fuel should be what keeps it from knocking.

 

13.5 to 1 for an all motor setup maybe... 13.5 to 1 for boost is a HORRIBLE idea unless running something like race gas or E85 and even that could be troublesome with some E85. Ideal for boost is 12:1 or a little under. Again, Im not bringing back water/meth discussion again but even with 91 octane people build insane power... just a little richer. Iirc Buscher (spell check) did near or at 600awhp in an Evo on 91.

Here is a video of 1600hp on a race/91 mix. Im not searching hard for the video but there is a dyno of this car making 1000 on straight 91. Just saying. But to reiterate, Im not bringing up the water/meth discussion again lol.

 

I am not saying it should be tuned to that, I am explaining how octane actually works. There is knowing what something does and then knowing why it does it.

13.5:1 is where gas will make the most power, on a high powered setup though the combustion temps and pressures get too high and cause it to pre-ignite.

So more fuel is dumped in to cool the temps and lower the pressure thus moving the pressure wave back further to reduce the chances of pre-ignition.

It gets real technical after that but basically there is a limit on how much richening the mixture can do and you are just bandaiding a problem using this method.

That RX7 is running on race gas, the 91 is only used during cruise, once it gets into boost it switches over to the race gas injectors. Very nice setup and one I hope to duplicate on my car. It is also a massive V8, that means the heat and pressures are spread out over more cylinders allowing for more power to be made before knock on lower octane fuel.

Once you dig into the technicalities of all this stuff it gets really interesting. You start seeing the pressure wave and how and why it works. You also see why octane is what really matters.

Do some searching if you have time it is hard to find the good data but it is out there.

I am one of those guys that is never happy just knowing what happened, I want to know why it happened.

 

s13 is i was to do a full out drag carand spend 5g's i would get everything u linked too. but mu total build will be around 2,600 im a bit more like texas i dont mind building something of my own adapting the turbo to my mani isnt a scare for me keeping a go flow change from mani to turbo is though. ill get the ct20 set up going in about two weeks got get the water meth kit which is most likly gone be the devilsown progressive kit $375 but i got to get my dads 91 yota 4x4 smoged so i have something to drive in the mean time. i like the idea of water methanol for mainly cooling the intake temps=more power,more timing=more power,more boost=more power and safer then lowering my compression. so ill be back with some viedos next weds from the dyno and then installing the turbo set up.

 

I know its on race gas lol, I said that in my last post. I also included that I wasnt going to search for it but there was a video of the same car making 1009 iirc somewhere on there on straight 91

 

Don't get the Deviles own progressive. Not worth the money and the controllers are problem prone. Only get the stage 1 if going with deviles own.

If you want progressive you want one with a failsafe as that is one of the biggest reasons to go progressive.

 

We can argue Octane and AFR's and more fuel vs water/meth all day, we'll get no where and accomplish nothing. I know how octane works, I know how the pressure wave works ect ect. For some good tuning info though, here is a good start. Its not toyota but it'll explain plenty and give a good basis.

P.S. Its the second option on the page

http://nistune.com/support-documentation-general.php