We can argue Octane and AFR's and more fuel vs water/meth all day, we'll get no where and accomplish nothing. I know how octane works, I know how the pressure wave works ect ect. For some good tuning info though, here is a good start. Its not toyota but it'll explain plenty and give a good basis.

P.S. Its the second option on the page

http://nistune.com/support-documentation-general.php

 

i just picked up or should say traded my ct20 for a nissan garrette turbo but it says .80 ar is that good or bad

 

.80ar compressor or turbine? The AR is also much less important then the wheel size. If it is one of those factory turbos you should be fine regardless.

 

compressor im figured s13 would chime in to tell me what to look for

 

Thats fine, compressor AR really doesn't effect much.

 

compressor housing says m-24 exhust housing says 2382-24

 

texas my friend that i got the nissan turbo from has a coolingmist water meth kit that uses the adjustable pressure switch can i buy the progressive part later ?

 

The cooling mist kit is the stage one. Can that be upgraded the the progressive ? Not bad for tradeing my non cracked ct20 for this meth kit,a ct26,a cracked ct20,and a Nissan turbo which I have no idea what it is

 

Smells like a T25 from a red top sr20. T25g to be exact, good for 250whp at best but with really good spool. When I first did my CA18 swap I made 241whp 227wtq at 14psi with just a 3" turbo back exhaust, fmic, z32 maf swap with apexi safc to translate the maf and of coarse my lovely HKS EVC6 boost controller. Several KA guys run them for quick response setups for drift cars making in the 230-240hp range. Neat turbos and can be sent to forced performance for an FP Big 28 upgrade too. Remind me to post you a link to Xiaphin's Big 28 build on nico club's site. Tuning with Apexi Power FC on a red top he made some really good power with stock sticks up top and wicked response.

 

If you have the turbo I think you have, then this is it... just yours wont be ball bearing

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob.../turbochargers

 

Here is the thread now so I dont forget it. Car made a little over 300whp and near 290wtq with the big 28. Just an option later down the road if you choose the Garrett/Nissan turbo.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/xiaphin-s...87865-120.html

 

What flang does it use on the hot side ? Anyone make a cheapish tuned down pipe? Ya idc if I don't hit. If HP as long ad its fun has Hell to drive lol I'm also thinking of messing with the ct26 with a small shot.of nos to help with lag

 

What do u think the waste gate is set at? It's way!!!! Stiffer then the 6psi ct20

 

It has the three bolt outlet and a two bolt inlet like the sr20 turbo u linked to way earlyer in the thread. How much boost can I push with it? Well where the turbo is efective

 

And this Nissan turbo has four ports is it water and oil cooled? Any idea what port is what going with the Nissan turbo for now and stage 1 cooling mist u picked up in trade if my ct20 and the compressor wheel is way bigger then the ct20 ill take a dialcaliber to it tomarrow. Hope it makes good power

 

So you now have a coolingmist kit in your possession?

If you already have it then you have 2 choice, sell it and use the money to upgrade. Or just run it and hope it works. The coolingmist stage 1 is ok but not as good as the devils own. The pressure switch is inferior. If you do use that kit be SURE to use a relay between the switch and the pump. That should extend the switch life.

Far as upgrading later, it is a better deal to buy the whole kit together, so might as well sell what you got later and swap over.

 

Wastegate pressure is 1/2 Bar, its a heat pump past 1 Bar. It should have a 5 bolt outlet (Garrett GT-RS style) and yes its water cooled and yes (before you ask) plumb coolant lines to it. The coolant ports are the 2 big ones at 3 and 9 o'clock on the CHRA. Oil feed will be at 12 and drain at 6 o'clock. I cant stress enough that while you would love this little turbo if you run it, plumb a -3 AN steel braid line WITH A .062" oil restrictor. You must run this!!! Our Nissan engines have a fitting from the factory in our blocks that restricted the oil flow to limit pressure in the CHRA. When we swap to steel braid lines we have to run these same restrictors because the AN lines are metric thread into the block, replacing the fitting which is BSPT to metric. You may need an Auto Meter 2269 adaptor to convert from BSPT to NPT, then with a 1/8NPT to -3 adaptor you can use the AN lines

 

yes i have the coolingmist stage one in my hands as we seak. it already has a relay. how can i tell what size nozzle it has? yes it has the five bolt out let.

 

ya the only down side to the sr20 turbo is buying all the dam intake bolt on part and the outlet

 

Both the inet and the outlet are cheap for it from FRSport.com and not only are they rebuildable for the CHEAP but can be upgraded easily like the FP Big 28 I listed earlier. And once you convert to GT-RS style oil/coolant lines and exhaust pieces, upgrading can seriously be simplified. From that point you could wake up one day with the horsepower bug biting and directly bolt up any of the Garrett GT-RS style turbo from the 2560 all the way to the 3071 and have many other options outside of Garrett such as Borg Warner EFR's, many of the 16 through 20G options (some with 25G and 60-1 wheels in them) and CT2/CT3 series from Comp Turbo.

http://www.frsport.com/FR-76mm-3-0-i...er_p_9436.html - Turbo inlet

http://www.frsport.com/FR-51mm-2-in-...er_p_9437.html - Turbo outlet

http://www.frsport.com/FRS-GT28-5-Bo...-_p_21511.html - Exhaust outlet, this should make fabbing your exhaust super easy if needed