Truck: 93 pickup,22RE

Just had the fuel pump and replay replaced at the stealership.. The truck ran fine for a week and now it won't start. It just clicks when you turn the key. I have replaced the battery and starter and nothing.

I love my truck but these problems are driving me crazy.. Any ideas ??

 

Sounds like a voltage problem getting it to where it needs to be.

Battery terminals clean tight not broken??

Connections at starter clean and tight ??

Ground cables clean tight and not thermal cycled to a brittle condition

Was the battery and starter that were replaced tested and found bad???

Break out the Multimeter do some testing

 

The stealership replaced the fuel pump to fix the "clicking only" problem you have? Then, it definitely is a Stealership and the mech does not know what he is doing.

A problem well-stated is a problem half-solved.
What relay, among the many on the truck, was replaced? What clicks? Feel, hear, see what clicks?

 

The truck wasn't getting fuel so the dealership replaced the fuel pump and fuel relay. That was about a week ago. Truck ran fine until last Friday and then it would not start without a jump.


When I turn the key to start the truck, it only clicks. I replaced the battery and starter thinking that was the problem, But it did not solve the problem.


Now when I turn the key, the truck doesn't do anything. Not even the clicking sound. It's like the in-line fuse is bad. No dash lights or anything. I put the jumper cables on and everything is good. I jump the truck and it starts right up and idles and drives fine.


I hope I stated it better this time.

 

I asked what clicks. You say IT clicks. You mean THE TRUCK Clicks? Interesing

 

If it only clicks or does nothing by itself, but starts fine with jumper cables, the problem is either a dead battery or bad battery connections. Since you just replaced the battery, it's likely the connections. Make sure the cable terminals and the battery posts are shiny clean and good and tight. Also make sure the ground cable from the battery to the engine block is firmly connected at the block - again, clean and tight connections.

Don't just look at the connections and declare them ok. Take them apart and make sure.

 

I really want one of these people that can check connections just by looking is this some sort of paranormal gift or talent

The time being able to be saved would allow so many more estimates in a day

A person can have some wild fantasies

 

It would be nice if there was a troubleshooting chart we could point you to for the starter clicks problem. There is a lot of great info on the forum, but it is not all in one place or thread. Following a step by step method can help you narrow down the problem without spending money on parts that don't need to be replaced. You have already taken one of the first steps by jumping your truck. One of the next steps is to use a wire to try to directly energize the starter solenoid...this really isn't that hard or expensive to do. This will help narrow the problem down more. Your next step will be determined by the results of this test.

 

Manual or auto transmission?


Yes... like this

IF this consistently makes it start, it could be the neutral safety switch. IF AUTOMATIC transmission.
Although schematic for 1993-1995 22RE shows that wiring flaw had been fixed, I would still want to verify.

 

Stick around and ask questions and learn to troubleshoot some of this yourself. It'll lower your costs and the truck will stay yours much longer.


I can't begin to tell you how happy the automotive parts store owners are when you do that without checking for voltage through the positive and negative battery cables first. It keeps their pockets lined when the problem may have been as simple as a $5.00 wire replacement. Alot of people do it but eventually you learn from your mistakes.


If you jump it and everything is fine obviously the fuses are fine.


That's where I'm putting my money too. Either a bad connection (loose, corroded) or a bad wire (cut, burnt, old= high resistance). I'm not counting out RAD4Runer either, he's pretty sharp when it comes to electrical stuff.


You should measure the Voltage Drop threw the positive and negative battery cables. If you don't have a voltmeter just a few dollars could solve your problem. Keep it in mind that all of this will help if you have any connection problems but not if you're dealing with a wire that has high resistance and needs to be replaced.





"Remove each ground and power wire connected to the battery and clean it. If you can move it with medium force after tightening it down it's too loose.
To say grounds are important is an understatement especially on a vehicle that is equipped with a computer- ECU/ECM.

Although there isn't guide the power wires should also be treated the same way.


Here's a low cash outlay method of an attempted fix.
Locate and clean all of your ground wires!

This is the 22re Ground Wire Guide.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

If you find a ground wire is missing look around for it, sometimes people forget to hook them back up. If it's broke or missing make a new one from at least 10 gauge wire to replace it. Some people go one step better and replace the smaller wires with 8 or 6 gauge which is great. If you make simple crimp connections do yourself a big favor and use adhesive lined shrink tubing to help keep corrosion out of the joint.
Treat all of the connections in the following manner.

1. Go to the store and purchase a small brass bristle brush and a tube of dielectric grease.

2. Dealing with one connection at a time, unbolt the connector and use the brush to clean the area the connector makes contact with until it shines.

3. Clean the ground wires connector with the wire brush until it's absolutely clean.

The idea here is to have fresh shiny metal to metal contact for low voltage drop.
If there's a ground that is bolted to paint or rust you'll of course need to scrape it to get a good metal to metal contact.

4. Apply the dielectric grease to the connector and bolt the two back together.

Dielectric grease will HELP keep corrosion away but it won't stop it. You'll eventually need to clean the grounds again. That's just the way it is because of the environment your dealing with.

Here's some more stuff that may or may not help you.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127...charge-287463/

 

TRUCK IS UP AND RUNNING !!!!

Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions and help.. I wish I came here first before I started replacing parts.. but I know better.

As a few of you stated, it was a bad battery connection. A couple of dollars in clamps and wires fixed everything.

Thanks again !!!

 

SWEET!

Might be time to talk to that dealership about their troubleshooting...

You normally start at the battery and make sure the correct amount of voltage is getting to where it needs to go. Sounds like they bypassed that simple first step and just started replacing parts at your cost.

 

This points out the importance of having decent battery cables. If you are using emergency terminals to clamp on to loose twisted wire, you should consider upgrading your cables. You can use the emergency terminals long term if you use a quality eyelet to eyelet cable and bolt it to the terminal. Most experienced electronics techs don't crimp wires, they solder them. The exception would be using expensive professional crimping equipment on large cables. You can find used cables from other vehicles that are larger and in good condition and if they are the right length, you can use them on your vehicle. You don't have to pay a hundred bucks plus to upgrade to a better cable. I bought a new 32" long 2 awg marine battery cable with 5/16" eyelets for a little over $12 on amazon. I'm upgrading my wiring using mostly new and some used cables and I'm not spending a fortune to do it. Some of those parts store cables aren't that good...look for solid lugs. If you have to pay for a tow one time because your truck won't start because you have sorry battery cables...it is money you could have spent upgrading your cables. http://www.ebay.com/itm/391183549327?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT