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Weird ticking sound in my 22re HELP!!!

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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 01:13 AM
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Weird ticking sound in my 22re HELP!!!

Hello to all

So I have a 94 22 re 2x4 at 195,xxx and I have been noticing a very distinct soft erratic ticking sound coming from the motor. I originally thought it may be the timing chain but I took it to my mechanic and he assured me that is not the case. I am no mechanic but I have pin pointed the sound to around the exhaust manifold area, possibly back of motor. The sound only manifests itself at a certain rpm then goes away. The truck doesn't seem to lack power in fact passed emissions yesterday with flying colors. My main concern is a fairly simple repair turning into something much bigger if I ignore it much longer. It has been apparent for probably 15,xxx miles, my mechanic though it was the cover on the manifold loose rattling around but I took it upon myself to rule that out by taking it off and it was still there. Hoping someone on here has had a comparable problem, could it be exhaust gasket leak, possibly a valve issue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:18 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Exhaust leaks often sound exactly like a tick.

That would be my guess.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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Does it seem to be noticeable at lower RPM and more so on cold mornings? If so, sounds similar to an issue I've been battling for years on mine - exhaust manifold leak where the pipe hooks onto the header/collector.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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did you check for an exhaust leak? have you pulled the valve cover and checked the valves , rockers, and adjusters?
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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use the search bar?? just sayin.........
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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I'm assuming you've done all of the basic maintenance?

Can you get a video of the noise you're hearing?

These engines are just noisy by nature, so it could very well just be a naturally noisy engine approaching 200,000mi.

Fink
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 02:13 PM
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I had an erradic tick that didnt change with rpm, turned out to be the tchain guides.
Dunno how reputable your mech. is, but i'd pull the valve cover and scope it out myself.
Just sayin.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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Yes all maintenance is current I'm mainly trying to set a plan of attack. This is my only vehicle and I don't have the time to go through process of elimination with it, I depend on it too much, drive 100 miles a day. The temperature hot or cold doesn't seem to affect the ticking. I don't have a tach so not sure on the rpm when it manifests itself but in 5th gear at 50mph I hear it the best and by 55 mph I can not hear it anymore. It's the weirdest thing.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jcreswell
Yes all maintenance is current I'm mainly trying to set a plan of attack. This is my only vehicle and I don't have the time to go through process of elimination with it, I depend on it too much, drive 100 miles a day. The temperature hot or cold doesn't seem to affect the ticking. I don't have a tach so not sure on the rpm when it manifests itself but in 5th gear at 50mph I hear it the best and by 55 mph I can not hear it anymore. It's the weirdest thing.
Takes 15mins to pull the valve cover, take a flashlight, and shine the light onto the drivers side of the front of the engine...
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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remove the plate that hold those anoying things with all the hoses coming out of them, lay it over to the left. remove the 4 nuts holding the valve cover on (they shouln't be tight at all, about 5ft-lbs). lift valve cover off. (may need a gentle bump with your palm)

look down both sides of the chain and discover that your mechanic lied. you'll see scarred aluminum from the chain slapping (unless you have an after-market steel backed guide.


this process should take 30mins if you've never seen a wrench before. if your fairly comfortable with a wrench its not hard at all. just pay attention to your vac. lines, you dont need to remove any. as stated, dont over-tighten the valve cover when you put it back together, new gasket and half-moons wont hurt either. i tighten mine just enough so that i cant remove the nuts by hand.

youll need a basic socket set and a flashlight. my chain was slapping and i would hear it only at 2000rpm, guarantee thats your problem
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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From: Fayetteville, AR
Originally Posted by Jcreswell
This is my only vehicle and I don't have the time to go through process of elimination with it, I depend on it too much, drive 100 miles a day.
I'm not sure what/how you intend to diagnose the issue. I guess you could drop your truck off at the mechanic for a few days for him to tell you everything's fine. These good folks are trying to help. It is kind of sounding more like timing chain rubbing to me as well. Not a whole lot else in the area you describe...Process of elimination is the most effective way to address problems, and you have listed so far in this thread the most likely culprits. Once you find it isn't those or give other insight into the symptoms, I'm sure more ideas can be garnered.

Last edited by My99; Nov 6, 2011 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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Okay, worst case scenario I pull the valve cover off and find evidence of the chain slapping, then what? I definitely lack the knowledge to change that out myself. I've called a few local mechanics and it sounds like I'm looking at about $1,200 for a timing chain job. Is that too much money? Would a dealer be better to go to? Or how long till it blows on me if it's already been apparent for 15,xxx miles? Not excited about paying that much for a vehicle that has a book value of $1,000.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 04:38 AM
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From: Fayetteville, AR
If you pull the cover and find it rubbing, you need to get it addressed ASAP. If not it will cost you more $ and or leave you stranded. Don't panic until you have a reason to do so. In regards to you plight of spending $1k+ on a $1k vehicle, that is just the name of the game, unfortunately. Not going to go into what your rig is worth, but your alternative is to go buy a newer car an have to spend money on it as well... Go buy a brand new 4runner, drive it off the lot and you just lost $3k. You're never going to come out ahead owning a vehicle. Your best option is to find one that costs little to maintain and has a good record and strong customer/owner base. The Toyota 4runners and pickups are at the top in terms of both, generally speaking.

Maybe someone else can give you an estimate as to timing chain replacement cost. In parts it should be no more than a few hundred dollars I wouldn't think. When I did mine I ended up having the whole engine rebuilt and it was considerably more.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 06:45 AM
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i have the exact same issue. if i rev it up it ticks very fast untill the rpms drop back down, or just as im at the shift point while driving then its fine. next month its going in for a couple things anyways so its getting a new chain/guides. on my last 22re i had the head gasket and timing chain put in for about 300$. i bought all the parts though. personally i think 1000 is high, but i do a lot myself and have a great CHEAP mechanic for bigger jobs.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 08:15 AM
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If it was the timing chain wouldn't it be the most apparent right when I start it due to no oil pressure? In this case it is not. Just a thought...
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 08:43 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Faint ticking can also be a fuel pressure regulator. You need a mechanic's stethoscope to located the source exactly. Cheap & easy to find at most any parts store.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 09:46 AM
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Good call I hadn't thought of that. I'm giving my mechanic another visit tonight and will post what we find.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 10:29 AM
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could be the reed valve making noise too. found that on my 88.

but a timing chain costs 1600 to replace? for that you can get hole engine.
can be done in a few hours with some patience
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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dude if you live near me i would do that for 50$ DONT BE DISCOURAGED BY HOW MUCH A MECHANIC WILL CHARGE. IT DOESNT MEAN THE JOB IS HARD. its just nuts and bolts dude, nuts and bolts. parts cost me less than 200 bucks and i replaced All gaskets too.

if it is the t-chain, google it and you will have a plethora of info on the process. buy a repair manual just so you have torque-specs handy. in the end, especially if you do the h/g too, and drop the oil pan to retrieve plastic guides, you will have basically complete knowledge of your motor and will have been able to check cylinder walls, main and rod bearings, etc. etc.

think like this: how many parts would you have to completely DESTROY before you would run a more expensive bill than the mechanic. . . . . . . . . nuff said
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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thanx 92dlx dude, that is helpful stuff to know
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