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Trick to installing a starter

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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
Lunnzz's Avatar
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From: Yelm, WA
Trick to installing a starter

Ok so maybe this is easier than I think I attempted to install the starter on the 93 PU sitting in my garage truck has a 3.0 and I tried going through the wheel well, from the front and no luck it is now kinda wedged in there now. I was getting tired of messing with it so gave up for now. Just wanted to know if there was a trick?

Thanks
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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So me tips below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...html#Update-II
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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Maybe a stupid question, but did you remove the cover in the passenger wheel well to gain some extra room? I hate working on my starter. Since I have headers there is no way it will come out unless i hook the engine to my hoist and remove the passenger engine mount completely.

Good luck
Jason
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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From: Yelm, WA
Yes removed the cover in the wheel well. I am sure that's how your supposed to do it. And thanks for changing the title to who ever did it.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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From: On the road of the Western United States
If it's anything like my old 90 4runner it's just a beautch to get that thing in there with all the connections. A mechanic friend told me that he disconnects the brake lines which are part of the wedging problem and then has room to work. You'll have to bleed the brakes but I don't know which is worse. Bleeding the brakes or installing the starter that barely fits in there.

It took me about 4 hours but I finally got mine installed. The electrical connections were almost too short to connect without the starter installed and impossible to attach once it was installed.

Good luck to you. I think having a lot of patience is the only solution.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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From: Ft.Lauderdale, FL
its a completely different truck but i did mine from beneath, you may have to remove a skidplate, i think i did, i also removed some brackets that were holding the dipstick for the atf fluid.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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From: NC
prob not the best answer but how about a BL ? before i had to use a crooked finger and a swivel socket and extension to get the last bolt on mine. that was just a throwout idea as i have a 22re
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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From: Chico, California
body lifts help tremendously with starters lol.

My buddy thomas has a truck with a 2" body lift and a 22re and i can swap that thing out in like 15 minutes.

This girl nicole i know has a stock pickup with a 22re and no body lift and i changed her starter and it took probably 45 minutes.


As far as the starter on the 3.0L I don't know the big issue i hear a lot of people have problems with them but i never really did.. I had that cover in the wheel well removed and went in from the side, get the bolts out and i believe when you drop the starter out you just basically drop it straight down. I was just looking at mine the other day and i don't ever want to have to change it on the 3.4L I think the major issue now would be trying to get the starter out with the damn shock hoop and bracing in the way...
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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From: Yelm, WA
Yea got the cover off and went in through the side and got sick of messing with it. Will let the owner mess with it when he gets home. I installed the engine and hooked it all up so that's what I left him.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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if you installed the engine could you not have put on the starter and dropped the engine in?
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 01:35 PM
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From: Northfield, Vermont
The stater bolts to the block and the tranny, cant do it when the engine goes in unless doing the engine/tranny together.

Its like a puzzle just have to twist it the right way and it will slide in.
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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From: Dixon, Ca
Did mine in the dead of a NH winter outside, (4cyl), took 1 year. well it felt like ! year. was pain in butt.
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