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Starting issues

Old 08-26-2018, 12:58 PM
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Starting issues

I have a 94 T100 with 3.0 3vze. Early mornings truck starts up fine. Shut it off within a few mins truck will just turn over wonít start. A spray of starting fluid and she fires right up and runs good. I have noticed here recently it will die on idle at times then wonít start back with out the starting fluid. I have replaced pump and filter. Still no change. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:24 PM
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:29 PM
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Also I am getting fuel to the regulator when she is not wanting to start. I have ran vacuum lines and everything I know to do. When it doesnít start I can spray it and starts fine. Or let it sit a while and try again later and starts right up. Any suggestions at all
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:44 PM
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Fuel smell anywhere as you crank?
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by deadstroke35 View Post
Also I am getting fuel to the regulator when she is not wanting to start. I have ran vacuum lines and everything I know to do. When it doesnít start I can spray it and starts fine. Or let it sit a while and try again later and starts right up. Any suggestions at all
just because your getting fuel to the regulator doesn't mean it's getting enough pressure to the fuel rail...
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:07 PM
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What makes me think regulator is good is that sometimes the truck starts right up on its own. I also pulled the vacuum hose to it and checked the suction on the diaphragm and it held suction. Could next step possibly be checking fuel pressure coming out of regulator. And whatís the best procedure for that
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:12 PM
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And yes I can smell fuel. Doesnít seem like itís flooding as it will start with starting fluid when it acts up. I may be wrong on that though
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Old 08-26-2018, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by deadstroke35 View Post
What makes me think regulator is good is that sometimes the truck starts right up on its own. I also pulled the vacuum hose to it and checked the suction on the diaphragm and it held suction. Could next step possibly be checking fuel pressure coming out of regulator. And whatís the best procedure for that

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Old 08-26-2018, 05:38 PM
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For that much for a pressure tester Iíd be better off to just buy the relay. Thanks for the help Iíll let yíall know if this fixes the issue.
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by deadstroke35 View Post
For that much for a pressure tester Iíd be better off to just buy the relay. Thanks for the help Iíll let yíall know if this fixes the issue.
how will installing a relay solve a fuel delivery issue, if fuel delivery is the issue? a relay will NEVER be able to verify that the fuel system has the correct pressure. EVER.
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:59 AM
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Meant to say regulator not relay lol
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Old 08-28-2018, 05:38 PM
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Well replaced regulator and still have same issue. I do seem to notice the truck is wanting to die more when I let off the gas like to stop also when leave it to idle and run in store I com bk and itís quit and wonít start back unless I spray it. I checked the fault codes I get 12,13,22, and 25. I donít have a clue as to where to go from here.
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Old 08-28-2018, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by deadstroke35 View Post
... I checked the fault codes I get 12,13,22, and 25. I don’t have a clue as to where to go from here.
To a mechanic?

Do you "not have a clue" because you don't know what the Trouble Codes mean? Or you know what they mean, but you don't know the next steps in diagnosis?
Here are the codes: http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf

12 and 13 have to do with circuits that run through the distributor. 22 has to do with the circuit that runs through the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor. 25 has to do with mixture. You COULD just start replacing the distributor, the coolant sensor, the O2 sensor .... How well has blindly replacing parts worked for you so far?

The FSM tells you the possible causes, with references to other parts of the manual.
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:28 PM
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I know what the codes mean Iím just not sure of the next step in diagnosis. This truck is my daily at the moment and the truck quiting at red lights and having to get out and give a shot of starting fluid to get it going again or not starting on its own is really frustrating. Iíll look through the fsm tomorrow and see what info I can get from there as to where to check next.
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:53 PM
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Don't throw parts at it. It sounds like it is running too lean so we'll start with that. Codes 12 and 13 are for distributor issues and likely related to the random stalling issue. Focus on the starting issue so lets put 12 and 13 to the side for now. 22 is a coolant temp sensor circuit and 25 indicates lean. 25 looks to be why it doesn't start however it is set as a result of another problem. Likely because of code 22. The coolant temp sensor dictates how much fuel the engine should receive. It gives a resistance value based on temperature. High resistance indicates cold, low resistance indicates hot. Cold adds fuel, hot pulls fuel. The Toyot ECU isn't very smart and is only going to know of a circuit problem there if the resistance value is way out of its expected range. In this case, I am willing to bet the coolant temp sensor shorts the signal wire to ground when its hot making for a lean condition. Unplug the sensor when hot and see if the truck tries to start. Remove the sensor and test in a pot of hot water. Don't ask how. Do some reading. In the 86-95 thread there is a sticky containing a factory service manual. Go there to find the resistance values it should have. If it test bad, replace it. After wards we'll look back into codes 12 and 13

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Old 08-30-2018, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kolton5543 View Post
Don't throw parts at it. It sounds like it is running too lean so we'll start with that. Codes 12 and 13 are for distributor issues and likely related to the random stalling issue. Focus on the starting issue so lets put 12 and 13 to the side for now. 22 is a coolant temp sensor circuit and 25 indicates lean. 25 looks to be why it doesn't start however it is set as a result of another problem. Likely because of code 22. The coolant temp sensor dictates how much fuel the engine should receive. It gives a resistance value based on temperature. High resistance indicates cold, low resistance indicates hot. Cold adds fuel, hot pulls fuel. The Toyot ECU isn't very smart and is only going to know of a circuit problem there if the resistance value is way out of its expected range. In this case, I am willing to bet the coolant temp sensor shorts the signal wire to ground when its hot making for a lean condition. Unplug the sensor when hot and see if the truck tries to start. Remove the sensor and test in a pot of hot water. Don't ask how. Do some reading. In the 86-95 thread there is a sticky containing a factory service manual. Go there to find the resistance values it should have. If it test bad, replace it. After wards we'll look back into codes 12 and 13
Thanks for the help. Iíll check the coolant temp sensor tonight and get bk in touch.
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