87 22-RET 4runner radiator hose right over the alternator got a hole in it, squirting antifreeze all over the alternator... took it to get it rebuilt they said it's toast...
so what is my best option... open to opinions
GM upgrade?
NAPA rebuilt?
yota 1 oem replacement?
so many options, i just want the best value in terms of quality and reliability...
60 amp?
80 amp?
100 amp?
Would like to make a decision tomorrow... help please

 

Sorry about the coolant mishap.
Your OEM would have lasted more than 32 years if not for that radiator hose leak. If I were you, and not planning to add anything significant to your alternator's load, I'd buy rebuilt OEM with Toyota warranty from reliable source like ToyotaPartsDeal.com
I got remanned OEM starter with Toyota Warranty from there.
Cheers!

 

thanks rad...i just had this oem rebuilt about a month ago when i upgraded my turbo...argh!
you have a sku or part # ? THANKS

 

Sorry haven't bought alt from TPD, but please visit its website. Compatibility is determined by VIN so very accurate.
A GM upgrade maybe OK if needed but adds more complications. I think same as CS130 alt upgrade. Requires a modified bracket, switching pulley type, and modifying wiring (no problem for electrically-savvy folks).

CS130 wiring: https://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco-remy-cs130-alternator-wiring-diagram.html

more on yotatech

 

Thank you...

 

Well after comparing, pricing, shopping...
i wound up going to autozone for a lifetime warranty
duralast alternator.... not sure it was the best value or not yet for $75...
appears the idle voltage may drop too much with headlights, heater blower, stereo all going...
might be why it's so cheap... suppose to be the correct replacement 60amp..

 

You should be OK. After all it would not be too often that you'll run all those at once.
Would be nice to have an accurate volt-meter to monitor system for the future. I had a digital volt-meter that plugged into cigarette lighter socket when I was troubleshooting my charging system,and it helped a lot. (Altho I don't remember who I lent it to, now it's gone - LOL!

Keep us posted.

 

"Plug-in" voltmeters are easy enough to come by. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-30...968687016.html (At this price, get two. You can loan one to a friend without worrying.)

Better is a devoted voltmeter suitable for many purposes:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-303218/

But just because you have numbers, you still need to interpret them. If your gauge displays a "low" voltage when you turn lots of stuff on, I would be VERY slow to blame the alternator. Your cigarette lighter socket is downstream of a lot of old wire. Once something starts pulling a bunch of current, you will get voltage drops through weak connections. But knowing the circumstance of "low" voltage is a good start to locating the real problem.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...elated-306130/

And my last post: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...nt-fit-260698/

 

thanks the hose is what ruined my alternator...
the autozone alternator fits... so i think I'm good...

 

I'm pretty sure my volt gauge is working properly and only shows low voltage ( creeps down to 12) at idle... rev the motor or start driving it goes back to 13.8 to 14 volts... even if i slip it into neutral while stopped it raises the rpm and the voltage goes back up to normal charging rate

 

 

Still a good way to monitor and to troubleshoot if you don't have access to a shop you trust.
One must always have a proper multi-meter, anyway.
I voltage read at dash is significantly outside the 13.5 to 15.1V range, then one knows that there is a problem somewhere and it's time to dig deeper.

Yes, I see how my brake indicator light dims when flashers are on.

 

Thank you gentlemen for your assistance... drove this morning and everything is functioning just as it's supposed to... had a steady 13.8 to 14 volts by the gauge ... no lights dimming when turning on blower, rolling up or down back glass, high beams, or turn signals