|
Smoked my oem alternator...
87 22-RET 4runner radiator hose right over the alternator got a hole in it, squirting antifreeze all over the alternator... took it to get it rebuilt they said it's toast...
so what is my best option... open to opinions GM upgrade? NAPA rebuilt? yota 1 oem replacement? so many options, i just want the best value in terms of quality and reliability... 60 amp? 80 amp? 100 amp? Would like to make a decision tomorrow... help please |
Sorry about the coolant mishap.
Your OEM would have lasted more than 32 years if not for that radiator hose leak. If I were you, and not planning to add anything significant to your alternator's load, I'd buy rebuilt OEM with Toyota warranty from reliable source like ToyotaPartsDeal.com I got remanned OEM starter with Toyota Warranty from there. Cheers! |
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
(Post 52417581)
Sorry about the coolant mishap.
Your OEM would have lasted more than 32 years if not for that radiator hose leak. If I were you, and not planning to add anything significant to your alternator's load, I'd buy rebuilt OEM with Toyota warranty from reliable source like ToyotaPartsDeal.com I got remanned OEM starter with Toyota Warranty from there. Cheers! you have a sku or part # ? THANKS |
:(
... you have a sku or part # ? THANKS A GM upgrade maybe OK if needed but adds more complications. I think same as CS130 alt upgrade. Requires a modified bracket, switching pulley type, and modifying wiring (no problem for electrically-savvy folks). CS130 wiring: https://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco-remy-cs130-alternator-wiring-diagram.html more on yotatech |
Thank you...
|
Well after comparing, pricing, shopping...
i wound up going to autozone for a lifetime warranty duralast alternator.... not sure it was the best value or not yet for $75... appears the idle voltage may drop too much with headlights, heater blower, stereo all going... might be why it's so cheap... suppose to be the correct replacement 60amp.. |
Originally Posted by 87-4runner
(Post 52417671)
... duralast alternator....
appears the idle voltage may drop too much with headlights, heater blower, stereo all going... might be why it's so cheap... suppose to be the correct replacement 60amp... Would be nice to have an accurate volt-meter to monitor system for the future. I had a digital volt-meter that plugged into cigarette lighter socket when I was troubleshooting my charging system,and it helped a lot. (Altho I don't remember who I lent it to, now it's gone - LOL! Keep us posted. |
"Plug-in" voltmeters are easy enough to come by. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-30...968687016.html (At this price, get two. You can loan one to a friend without worrying.)
Better is a devoted voltmeter suitable for many purposes: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-303218/ But just because you have numbers, you still need to interpret them. If your gauge displays a "low" voltage when you turn lots of stuff on, I would be VERY slow to blame the alternator. Your cigarette lighter socket is downstream of a lot of old wire. Once something starts pulling a bunch of current, you will get voltage drops through weak connections. But knowing the circumstance of "low" voltage is a good start to locating the real problem. |
|
Originally Posted by ev13wt
(Post 52417689)
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...elated-306130/
And my last post: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...nt-fit-260698/ the autozone alternator fits... so i think I'm good... |
Originally Posted by scope103
(Post 52417680)
"Plug-in" voltmeters are easy enough to come by. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-30...968687016.html (At this price, get two. You can loan one to a friend without worrying.)
Better is a devoted voltmeter suitable for many purposes: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-303218/ But just because you have numbers, you still need to interpret them. If your gauge displays a "low" voltage when you turn lots of stuff on, I would be VERY slow to blame the alternator. Your cigarette lighter socket is downstream of a lot of old wire. Once something starts pulling a bunch of current, you will get voltage drops through weak connections. But knowing the circumstance of "low" voltage is a good start to locating the real problem. |
Originally Posted by scope103
(Post 52417680)
"Plug-in" voltmeters are easy enough to come by. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-30...968687016.html (At this price, get two. You can loan one to a friend without worrying.)
Better is a devoted voltmeter suitable for many purposes: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...icator-303218/ But just because you have numbers, you still need to interpret them. If your gauge displays a "low" voltage when you turn lots of stuff on, I would be VERY slow to blame the alternator. Your cigarette lighter socket is downstream of a lot of old wire. Once something starts pulling a bunch of current, you will get voltage drops through weak connections. But knowing the circumstance of "low" voltage is a good start to locating the real problem. |
Originally Posted by beef tits
(Post 52417695)
Those are not accurate for troubleshooting a battery. Voltage at the battery will always be higher. One must always have a proper multi-meter, anyway. I voltage read at dash is significantly outside the 13.5 to 15.1V range, then one knows that there is a problem somewhere and it's time to dig deeper.
Originally Posted by scope103
(Post 52417680)
... Your cigarette lighter socket is downstream of a lot of old wire. Once something starts pulling a bunch of current, you will get voltage drops through weak connections. But knowing the circumstance of "low" voltage is a good start to locating the real problem.
|
Thank you gentlemen for your assistance... drove this morning and everything is functioning just as it's supposed to... had a steady 13.8 to 14 volts by the gauge ... no lights dimming when turning on blower, rolling up or down back glass, high beams, or turn signals
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:03 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands