drew303

My personal plan is to run 35x12.5R15 tires. The lift option I like is Trail-Gears SAS. I'm looking at doing the conversion this summer so now is the time for planning it all out. I've got most of it priced and organized in a spreadsheet and so far it all looks financially doable for the summer, woot.

Now the technical stuff.

First off deciding what springs, TG offers 3,4 and 5 inch spring packages, all at the same price so its a buyer preference.

I want to flatbed the truck eventually but it will have the bed when I do the SAS.

Looking for opinions on the different lift heights. Obviously the higher you go the more roll. Lower better center of gravity but overall I like height and most importantly want the most amount of flex I can muster.

I can't remember if i got the following pictures off this forum or not, hopefully the owner will recognize it =)

I believe this truck has TG's 5" springs and a 2" body lift?

I like how it stands a lot. Tho I dont know what size tires those are. They seem bigger than 35's ... and i only want to run 35x12.5's... I could lose my 2" body lift that would help the stance...

anyways, opinions!! shoot!

THIS IS NOT MY TRUCK

Sonofmayhem

I will be getting their 3in springs, because the drop hanger and shackles add about 1in of lift, and i will be running chevy rears, but maybe their 4in heavy duty springs... i want to run 35s as well. and ill be running 4.56 gears till i can afford the 5.29s which may be sooner than expected, if i run into clearance issues im gonna tub the firewall and trim a little off. maybe run a 2in body to get an almost flat belly.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You got questions...I got answers and the parts you need!

Do the rear 1" taller for extra weight in the back and still sit with a rake to the front.

Then decide on a body lift height if needed, but trim the fenders and tub the firewall first IMO.

Sonofmayhem

Thats what i said!

drew303

So are you reccomending (I know you were aimed at SonofMayhem) that I do 4" in the front and 5" springs in the rear?

Also, the shackles included in TG's lift will those increase the lift 1" as son said? Right now I have 6" shackles that give me 2" overstock in my STOCK rear end. Which the pass side rear spring SAGS.. which is why I'm pushing to do this lift before I rebuild my motor (finances). The sag to the right and the bent up IFS (pass side from accident) is noticeable if theres some reference near the truck on a level surface.. or if you pull up behind it in a car.. I KNOW its there and that is enough to bug the hell outta me. Not to mention my pass front wheel being OBVIOUSLY out of camber (bent ifs brackets) and causes an "wheel out of balance" WAAHH WAHH WAHH at about 32mph..

ranting, sorry

back to topic... 5" front and rear or 4" front 5" rear.. .and how much higher do the TG shackles lift the truck? Or are they just to compensate for the lift from the spring hangar?

drew303

I really like the stance in the photos of the pickup in my first post.. that truck is identical to mine, minus the missing roof :-p ... but if he's got bigger than 35 tires it's going to look retarded with that height and smaller tires.......

not retarded but not the look im going for... however, without a body lift (could remove mine, its only on there to make the pass side torsion bar fit) it might have the same stance on 35's...hmmmm

drew303

Reviewing all the photos of that truck and messing around in photoshop I compared parts on the truck that I know the lengths of that are near the tires and of close enough angle, depth to compare the height of the tires I can only guesstimate they are worn 33's... or maybe worn 35's... It's to hard to tell... Tires start out at different dimensions and change heigh under load and especially after they wear down. My 31x10.5r15 mud rovers measure exactly 30" under correct PSI and load and haven't worn much.

For instance if those are 15" rims then whats visible is 16" of rim... Compared to the parking light which is almost 8" tall it confirms the other measurements on the tire.

It's my day off and I was bored... lol



The parking light appears shorter because of the angle, but judging the angle (our view of the parking light is from the top, not as head one as the above pic, its safe to say the 8" ruler should appear longer than in the above pic because of the downward angle... measurement is close enough)


I think judging by how worn they are and they are swampers they started out as 35's and have worn to around 33".. about 1.5-1.75" wear sounds about right to me. So I'd guess in the end they are 35's... =P

drew303

stole this from the "35" or bigger thread"

jsnby

here's my junk...TG 5" f/r on 35x12.5r15 BFG's....top pic is when it we first finished it....bottom pic is after it settled a bit.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Those are "nominal" numbers on the lift heights like pipe sizes. You can count on about that much lift, give or take a bit here or there after installation and settling, but there are lots of variables like added weight in the vehicle, installation, the exact vehicle, etc etc. You start changing components from the kit and you can throw the "nominal" numbers out the window and just have to do your own figuring at installation time.

I suggested more lift in the back so you will have the rake towards the front no matter what you do and not a saggy ass lift truck.

BeaterToyota

The rear of mine is a hodge podge of crappy springs, lift shackles, etc., but the front has Trail Gear 3" springs, drop hanger, and shackles. Tires are 36x12.50 on 8" rims. Works perfectly, and with bumpstops there is no rubbing at all. Also, no body lift.

MtnToys

I would say keep it as low as possible and go with the 3? and no body lift. Im running 225/85?s which comes out to be a 33.3x10 with no lift on my 85 4runner. With pushing the axle forward and 3? of lift you should have no problem running 35s. Pound in the pinch weld or tub it if necessary. Just keep your center of gravity low. You?ll be happier when your truck doesn?t roll.