rednecked ISR mod
#1
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,167
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From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
rednecked ISR mod
tell me what you think about this! one question, how should i seal up where the pipe goes into the airbox and where the rubber pipe goes over the metal pipe? IT doesnt idle right unless they are sealed tight. Im thinking some type of silicone. did this all for free!! YAY!!
#7
I used a little bulk rad hose, I belive it was listed a the auto shop as goodyear 2 7/8" bulk rad hose. Then I used a couple od clamps. The risk with just silicone is that the pipe will still flex when the motor is revved.
What did you use for the pipe?
What did you use for the pipe?
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#8
Nice, what size pipe is that? The afm is 70mm (roughly 2.75" O.D.) so try to get a coupling somewhere around that size so you will have a good fitment. And take that camshaft breather off of that line and replace it back in the isr tube before you go through any mud.
#9
Originally Posted by rocket
Looks good for a "redneck" job. Take more pics when its done.
I don't think this guy is much of a redneck. Because if he was he wouldn't have asked how to rig things up. Every redneck knows that you use duct tape and bailing wire.
On another note where are the pics for the Folgers can being used for a muffler. Also adding so called "Performance Parts" aka crap to sell to teenagers doesn't make a 3.slow any faster.
#11
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
i did it the other day at my friends house and it woudlnt idle without duct tape over both of those ends i metioned earlier. well duct tape got me home and man did it sound good. i got some black silicone to try and seal it up, if not ill go find some rubber hose to use. I used the left over pipe from my friends 2.5 inch intake on his prelude. just so happened to fit into the rubber hose and right over the AFM. the tube also came from the kit that he got. question, i want to go with silicone to seal it up because i think it will look the best, should my black silicone work or should i get the red (high temp) silicone? I dont think this black stuff will melt in there. another thing, will this mess up my motor at all. it sounds fine but just didnt know if i was gonna mess somethin up by leaving it like this.
-Kyle
edit* I cant use a rubber hose piece on the AFM end because of the angle it sits at, if you look at the first picture u can see the angle.
-Kyle
edit* I cant use a rubber hose piece on the AFM end because of the angle it sits at, if you look at the first picture u can see the angle.
Last edited by Kyle95sr5; Jan 28, 2006 at 09:02 AM.
#14
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,167
Likes: 2
From: Bucklesberry, North Carolina
the end that has the rubber hose seals up nice with one of this big hose clamps but i cant figure out how to seal the end against the AFM. its at a weird angle so a piece of rubber just doesnnt work, any ideas guys. im out of um. only thing i can think of is to cut the pie about 1/2, 3/4 inch back and then use a piece of rubber hose, but i just dont think it would seal up any better then it is now. thanks.
-Kyle
-Kyle
#18
Kind of hard to see in these pics, but I did something similiar.
I got a PVC pipe from Home Depot, for electrical runs. At least a 1/4" thick wall. Can't remember the diamater off hand, but it came pre-curved. I then went to the plumbing aisle and got a pair of 3" to 2.5" rubber coupling reducers (dimensions from memory, but you get the idea). The fit was tight on the AFM and throttle body, but that's better than loose of course.
The PVC was so burly I then threaded a coupled of brass elbows into it to run the other various hoses from the factory setup into my new pipe.
Maybe you can find some similiar couplers? The ones I got flexed pretty well and are fairly thick. No problem with heat so far.
I got a PVC pipe from Home Depot, for electrical runs. At least a 1/4" thick wall. Can't remember the diamater off hand, but it came pre-curved. I then went to the plumbing aisle and got a pair of 3" to 2.5" rubber coupling reducers (dimensions from memory, but you get the idea). The fit was tight on the AFM and throttle body, but that's better than loose of course.
The PVC was so burly I then threaded a coupled of brass elbows into it to run the other various hoses from the factory setup into my new pipe.
Maybe you can find some similiar couplers? The ones I got flexed pretty well and are fairly thick. No problem with heat so far.
#19
Elvota, how long ago did you do this setup? I recall reading somewhere that it wasnt safe to use pvc piping under the hood as the heat in the engine compartment can cause bad things to happen. Is there a difference between the white pvc and the electrical one you used?
#20
Well, this whole thread did start as a "redneck" mod, so I guess I am in that ballpark.
That said, I have run this for at least six months now with no issues yet. I live in AZ, with 100+ degree summers so my underhood temps are probably well up there.
At this point, I am really just running an expereiment as I am by no means a plastic engineer. But the intake tube I used is very thick (1/4" at least) and is mounted fairly high, basically horizontal from the throttle body, and a good deal away from most heat sources.
I figured with the factory intake being all plastic, I was pretty safe with my new piece. In fact, I learned that the factory intake had a hole burned through the bottom by the exhaust when I went to replace it.
That said, I have run this for at least six months now with no issues yet. I live in AZ, with 100+ degree summers so my underhood temps are probably well up there.
At this point, I am really just running an expereiment as I am by no means a plastic engineer. But the intake tube I used is very thick (1/4" at least) and is mounted fairly high, basically horizontal from the throttle body, and a good deal away from most heat sources.
I figured with the factory intake being all plastic, I was pretty safe with my new piece. In fact, I learned that the factory intake had a hole burned through the bottom by the exhaust when I went to replace it.
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