Awhile back another member posted a similar problem, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...ing-up-275311/ where the drivers side window went down and stayed down. Yet, the passenger side worked fine so it was assumed there was an issue with the master switch. I removed the panel, disconnected the courtesy lamp and the harness connector to the master switch. I ran some jumper wires and was able to get the window to raise with no issue, more on that later I verified there was power from the main harness through the switch harness and that was all good. I then took to looking over the master switch to try and determine how to check and clean. Unfortunately I was only able to open a portion of the switch yet not enough to check the actual switch itself. I then took some contact cleaner and tried my best to get it inside and dislodge any grime.
After letting it dry out I attached the master switch w/o the door panel to check functionality and to my disbelief both windows are working! After a few times of working the window it started to develop a chattering noise and would stop going up. It goes down w/o any issue but when going up it stops and the motor chatters until finally its now stuck about 3/4 of the way up and won't move either way.

From what I could see of the regulator, it appears there a half-moon shaped gear that interfaces with the motor. My question is, can I just replace the motor or does the entire regulator need to be replaced? Any suggestions for further testing?

Thanks in advance!
donovan

 

It is possible to replace the motor without replacing the whole lifter.

The lifter ought to be cleaned, inspected and regreased if the door panel is opened up though.

 

Consider running a tiny bit of silicone grease (most easily found in the plumbing section) in the window tracks.

 

Millball,

Thanks, is it better to do the swap with the window up or down?

 

I think you need the window rolled down to a specific point to access the mounting bolts through the door panel. If you have the inner door panel off and roll it up and down you should be able to see how it's mounted. Make sure you secure the actual window with some heavy tape or something before removing anything.

 

Scope103,
I greased the lower guide awhile back when I first noticed some noise...

Thanks.

 

That's an excellent question, and it's been a while since I've fooled with any..

I think that 5 Fists is right though about a certain position, neither all the way up, or down.

 

Thanks everyone. I found this post, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...y-86-a-300053/ which really helped with identifying where the mounting screws were located. Since my window was stuck I just jumped in and removed the motor, then secured it till I can get the new motor in tomorrow. I dropped by the local napa to see what they had and according to their system there was a difference between an early and later model 4Runner. The motor for the early model was unavailable but they did have one for the later model. When comparing between the oem and the napa motors there was no significant differences other than the oem was beefier, the mounting holes are the same. The napa motor comes w/o a connector and since I decided to go w/ the re-manufactured one I cut off the oem pigtail and will splice in.
I'll let you know how it goes once I get in in and tested...
d.

 

All, I installed the new motor, cleaned and lubed all the friction points with new lithium grease attached the switch and it works, for the most part. It goes down great but I really need to apply pressure to the switch to get it to go up. So there may still be an issue with the switch but at least I have the new motor in and now it works. I've attached a few pics of the master switch and as you can see all I can get to is the underside of the switches and the interconnects however I'm unable to get to the actual switch itself. Any ideas or is this as far as I can go?

Thanks.

 

I tried cleaning my master switch but fubared it in the end and was lucky to find another one from someone on the T4R forums. Even with the replacement switch they were not working and so after some additional troubleshooting I found a broken wire in the harness at the pinch point on the door along with an open solder joint on he control module. After repairing both, everything is working once again. I will say that soldering that broken wire was a b&I$%^! and was certainly not my best work with a soldering iron...