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Checked your fuel pressure?

 

Your motor looks awesome...
we gotta get you running....
don't give up... help us help you
there are some really smart men here that CAN get you going and will... it may take some more time but keep after it and give us details

 

nice simple, clean FP gauge setup

 

Thanks everyone I'll hook up a fuel pressure gauge this weekend, here's my newest findings I re-checked timing with a timing light and somehow it got way retarded, re-set timing and it idles good, got enough power to take it for a drive and it runs great in the top end 3,000+rpm. As for down low I still have nothing, had to put it in 4 low with my foot down just to make it up my driveway, also when the truck hits running temp it will NOT stay idling (stalls out)

 

Advance your timing!
sitting in thre drive or garage, in neutral...
Pop the throttle to WOT if it's slow to respond advance... if backfiring or popping on the deceleration advance your timing...
once it's got some "response" go for a short drive... then you can start fine tuning....
if you advance your timing with no increase in performance it's something else, so go back to where you were with the timing light setting...

 

Well got it running good I thought.... tampered with the TPS took it for about a 15 mile drive once I got that far in and was turning around I lost all power, motor stalled and white smoke blew out the hood with coolant covering everything all hoses are in tact and I have no idea where it came from, Temp was barely 110° when it blew so it did not over heat, the truck barely starts, rattles like a bucket of nails and dies ofcourse it left me where I had no service, and -3° out it was a miserable walk until a awesome dude pulled over and asked if I needed a ride.... I'm about done with this truck! Now I got to get It towed

 

Something tells me coolant got through into the cyl and hydrolocked...

Think I had that happen to me once after a head repair.

Time to buy a reliable source engine or thinking of a completely different Toyota?

Dont give up! You put a lot of work, its giving you one hell of ride, but you have a lot of experience and lessons learned for others who have never dealt with elusive problems.

Keep us posted!

Bless the kindness of the one who picked you up!

 

Headed to my local auto shop store to get some hose clamps and a new T stat. Going to double clamp every water line and swap out the tstat, mabe it's not opening all the way? Something's going on inside my cooling system that's building up tons of pressure without overheating any ideas? As for the motor itself I have about $3,000 into it been resurfaced bored, honed and all my parts have came from lce and 22RE performance this is also not my first time doing this I've built 12 to 15 of them without anyone having any issues and am a certified diesel technician however this truck has been scrambling my brain!!

 

Also forgot to mention I went down where it was broken down at this morning with a couple gallons of coolant and water, found the hose that blew off, reconnected it, filled the radiator, and the truck started and ran just fine to my house so I'm completely stumped

 

I am going to throw a bunch of stuff at you, lots of it may have been already covered.

For starters some easy stuff that is only semi relative.

The washed out photos are probably because you have a phone case and have the flash on this causes a halo around the lense and gives these sort of washed out images.

Next I'm pretty sure your charge pipe is backwards, it's not well centered on the radiator and that is an odd entry angle to the throttle body.

You have a filter on the PCV input but have the PCV valve connected, you need to have both either connected to the intake system or both capped with filters. I assume you have the vafm port capped off also?

You have the PS idle up plumbing in some nonstandard configuration. Did you take off the adjustable valve or did it come like this? The switch valve on the pump doesn't need a hose to the intake if you're going to cap it off, just put three caps on it and it will look cleaner and remove points of failure.

Engine bay grounds, there is a thread (maybe even sticky) that covers where these go with good photos. The only thing I can add is regarding the ground plane configuration, it is designed to have a "star ground" this means everything has a single route back to a central location it's purpose is to eliminate multipath (circlular) ground connections. IE don't go adding random ground wires, consult the ground thread and add any that you are missing.

Fuel pressure regulator. This picture you show of a "simplified" system can give you startup issues. I do not see a port for the FPU temp switch, it would of been on the thermostat housing, so maybe you didn't have the FPU vsv either but I'd venture to say you or a prior owner removed it.

Ok now I'm caught back up to the point that made my hair stand on end and got me to get the PC out so I could reply in depth. Grounds! I sort of covered this already but now some detail..

The picture Ray showed is the block end of the negative battery cable, it goes on the block somewhere near the bottom end of the intake stay it is located here because of the proximity to the primary EFI ground which gets attached to the lower section of the intake it's critical for sensor and injector functions.

Packrat, that's a bummer. Grab new doughnut gaskets and disconnect the exhaust at the intermediate pipe between exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. This will eliminate and back pressure issues. Anything as far up as the manifold should shoot right out then.

Now on post #18 you mention it is "hard cranking", this is " hard to" or "slow to" crank over? Likely the ground not being attached to the block which grounds the starter through the starter body.

Post #23, You unplug the VAFM and the engine dies and you say the VAFM is good.. Sort of yes sort of no. This tells you the fuel pump circuit turns off like it is supposed to, it does not tell you anything about the other functions of the VAFM. Did you rewire those also, if so did you follow a good protocol such that you only ever had one wire disconnected if not you'll want to reverify you have the right signals reaching the ECU in the right spots.

Post #25, regarding the engine mods and thier effect on fuel ratio. The ECU can trim up to iirc 20%, if it goes past this it will set a code and light the check engine. You can also do the oxygen sensor inspection to verify. If it swings back and forth as the FSM indicates, your mods are fine and the oxygen sensor is functional.

Post #30, if you are using the factory air box and air filter. This "hissing/whistling" air sucking sounds are abnormal and indicate a vacuum leak. A few common places are the idle adjustment screw (specifically the oring), the idle air control valves air hoses (they are in a tight spot to see and prone to heat baking). It's really hard to describe the difference between sucking air and blowing air. Blowing air sounds more like uh a wheezy old man, this could be a plugged exhaust (if you disconnected the muffler and cat already, it's not that), or an exhaust valve leak (you can run a leak down test, maybe double check your valve lash).


Post #39, Shows a picture of your valve cover. Still has the PCV system in the wonky configuration. I can not understate how wrong this is.. On a positive note that sure looks like a genuine Toyota PCV valve, yay I hate those plastic ones you will find at the corner store parts places.

Ok let us have a look at the way the PCV system is plumbed originally. Working backwards from the plenum we go thru the J shaped hose, into the flame arrestor valve, across the oil vapor baffle, and come to the front port, from the front port there is a hose to the engine side of the VAFM flapper. When the PCV valve is open fresh air enters the air filter, passes by the measuring vane, flows thru the valve cover and enters the plenum in front of the EGR (this isn't coincidence, but I digress since it is already removed), mixes and gets burnt..

My keyboard is acting up

 

So which hose was it

 

it was this one circled in blue behind the timing chain cover, I think I have a air bubble inside my cooling system trying to burp it now

 

What's all that black goop where the hard pipe is connected to manifold with two bolts? That connection only requires an o-ring, but it looks like black RTV has been used.

 

This is an old photo?

The Union on the intake needs to face the rear, it's a kinked hose just waiting to happen like it is shown. It connects to the aft port on the water outlet, notice these are different sizes you'll have issues getting a hose to stay on if you used the one that points away from the block.

What did you wind up doing about the missing air valve (mentioned in your coolant routing thread). Where did you route the smaller outlet to, if you don't have the iacv/air-valve it should be capped.

 

yes that's an old photo, all coolants lines and vac lines have been found and that elbow has been turned, I'll post a more up to date pic in a moment

 

Here's everything on the top side, one thing I am starting to get worried about is this truck never had it a knock sensor hooked up ever since I bought it therefore I didn't worry about hooking one up when I put the motor in however after doing some reading on it it looks like I should start to get a little worried about not having one. I went and bought a new knock sensor today however after running through all my wires I don't even have a plug for it. There are a few extra plugs and wires that have been tapped off from the previous owner so I'm not sure what he did there

 

Guess the pic dint go through, I'll re try