Cumminsguy1

Well I got my motor back in and running today and it idles nicely for awhile then dies, when I hold my foot on the gas and shift into drive (IF) it does not die I have no power than it will stall shortly after. Another thing when I hold one foot on the gas and the other on the break my dash lights go crazy until I pull one off. I re wired the truck exactly as it was before only using new wires for the injectors, TPS and stuff like that, I'm wondering if I possibly capped off the wrong vacuum lines while doing the EGR delete causing some of my Issues? I also installed a crank case vent, Here's a pick of the top side if anyone sees anything wrong....

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Did you recently paint the engine bay? Are your ground wires to bare metal? Check with the ground wires to see that they are all connected and to bare metal.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

Try taking the breather filter off and put the stock hose back on and see if that helps. Im wondering if the engine is getting unmeetered air in from that and not liking it.

Cumminsguy1

funny you mentioned that yes everything has been painted, I couldn't figure out why the starter wasn't working, I had to ground the hell out of it just to get it to crank

Cumminsguy1

I guess I'll go buy some hose tomorrow, I already tossed the old one.....

Cumminsguy1

Also just because I know this question is coming yes I did use a timing light when I was setting the timing. And I apologize for the poor quality of the picture my camera kind of sucks haha

RAD4Runner

This affects cranking and other circuits that take ground from the engine block.


Yeah, sounds like wiring problem.

87-4runner

Redo all the grounds you can find... make them shiny metal on metal grounds NO PAINT, NO RUST, NO OIL... you can use dielectric grease to help with rust or seal it with an electrical sealer after you've got good ground...
add a couple of grounds from the motor to frame, motor to chassis...

snippits

Vacuum to fuel pressure regulator hooked up? I can't see it is why I ask.

Charcoal canister vacuum goes to P port on throttle body. Fuel pressure regulator vacuum to the three way port on the intake plenum.

From what I am seeing in the picture, you got it hooked up wrong. It's just a picture, and without being there in person to take a look at what I can't see that's the best I can do.

Cumminsguy1

I have the pressure regulator capped off in the back, I may have the charcoal canister going to the wrong port as well.

Cumminsguy1

found this pic doing a search on the vacuum diagram. Im assuming this is the correct way to hook up the pressure regulator? Thought I could cap it off my bad haha

snippits

Just run the charcoal canister to the P port on the throttle body. You probably won't have enough of the original vacuum hose to make the connection. The ports on the throttle body are 4 mm outside diameter, so you need either 3 mm or 1/8 inside diameter hose. None available around here locally. My local NAPA does stock 7/64 vacuum hose, and that will work.

You should have enough original vacuum hose to go from the fuel pressure regulator to the three way port on the intake plenum.

Yes that's the right way to hook up the fuel pressure regulator that's in the picture you posted.

Cumminsguy1

Alright so I'm pulling my hair out! I fixed the vacuum lines and pulled the crankcase vent off and put the original tube on, bonded all the ground wires to the frame (shiny clean metal) and even added a jumper wire grounding to a spot on the block (also shiny bare metal) and everything is acting exactly the same!!!!! No power, stalling, and dash lights flickering!

Cumminsguy1

Also forgot to mention I'm having trouble even getting It started now!

Cumminsguy1

First pick is the charcoal canister going to the "P" port, second pic is of the vacuum line going from the fuel regulator to the intake plenum

Cumminsguy1

Update: apparently a packrat made my tail pipe its home over the last 3 months while I was re- building the motor, re-wireing, and doing breaks. Anyway I've blown out about 15lbs of dog food out my exhaust, I have not taken it apart yet however any chance a clogged exhaust is my problem?

RAD4Runner

Lights as in display backlight OR gage lights?
Re: stalling, did u check crimps/splices on the ECU to injector wires? There's a thread about that.

Starting as in cranking or getting combustion?

Cumminsguy1

I re- wired the ECU to injector wires, I made sure my crimps were good while I was doing it and it's hard cranking now

snippits

Did you use the factory injectors, or use some other aftermarket injector?

Did you install a new fuel filter? I am not definitely sure if the flow is restricted installed backwards.

When I tore my engine down for repairs, I replaced the fuel filter. I first installed it with the arrow pointing toward the radiator which looked to be the right way at first. Then I got to looking at how the rail gets the fuel, and then installed fuel filter arrow pointing toward the rear of the truck.

It's been a long time since I installed it on my 92 pickup, but from what I remember the line loops back to the rail, and that's the reason the fuel filter arrow direction goes toward the rear. Mine has been working fine installed that way.

Look at the video here that explains the filter orientation at the 7:15 mark. Notice the arrow pointing towards the rear, and the big end of the fuel filter towards the front.

Cumminsguy1

fuel injectors are new from lce and were used before I pulled the motor same with the fuel filter