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New motor, new issues: idle, power,timing strange acceleration at idle, power loss

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New motor, new issues: idle, power,timing strange acceleration at idle, power loss

Old 04-03-2011, 07:02 AM
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New motor, new issues: idle, power,timing strange acceleration at idle, power loss

I have gone over everything I can think regarding this motor. Somewhere I am missing something.
Just did a complete rebuild on my 1982 22r. Early block, bored, honed, shaved, new pistons, rings everything. Head done. Valves and 268 cam.
I need a Yota motor guru to give me some help please.
Cam timing is perfect, dizzy is seated correctly, valves good, carb is tuned and I recently rebuilt it. All new tune up components. Fires on the 1st crank. The timing is set at 8 degrees BTDC with vac ad off. This is the book recommendation. I have set it at 0 and doesn't make much difference in power.
The issue I am having is a slight power loss. It seems there should be a bit more power. It seems as if it is holding back on the top end. At around 2000 rpm and up there should be a little more kick. It is definitely lagging. In addition to the power issue there is an idle issue.. after it is warmed up and at idle (900 rpm) it will rev up and down periodically roughly every 5 minutes. What would cause this to happen and what is going on with it being a bit sluggish?

Last edited by toyospearo; 04-03-2011 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 04-03-2011, 07:42 PM
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Really?? No one?
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:05 AM
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Mine had the same problem, try the vacum lines around the carb. Even look at the vacum caps on the carb, mine would idle rough and then clear out. Sometimes wouldn't even idle, I replaced all my vacum lines and I gain more power and smooth idle.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:15 AM
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that idle issue up and down sounds like how mine acts after draining and filling the coolant because of the sensor having air pockets instead of liquid.....until burped it was like that. could it be you have air???

did you ever get you answer to the torque specs you asked me. we were away and it was anything but a relaxing time because we were on the go so much of the time. i can surely do what i can do to help you now.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:30 AM
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Jerry this one's the 22r not re so no coolant temp sensor that affects the engine running anyway (just one for the gauge and some stupid vsv's IIRC) , but yeah kinda sounds like how yours acted though.

Did you ever get this sorted out? 8* BTDC sounds kinda advanced and more like a 22re spec, but then again it's the 82 22r not an 87 22r. And the 85 FSM downloadable isn't much help as it could be describing the wrong engine. So 8* could be right for all I know.

x2 on checking all the vac lines. Especially ones that involve VSV's which open an shut at will and can cause intermittent vac leaks, also the EGR/Modulator vac line routing. Also double and triple check that steel vacuum rail as they like to rust out and cause pinhole vacuum leaks. Had that problem with mine.

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Old 04-13-2011, 05:41 AM
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I've had distributor one tooth off before and motor not run quite right. They all seem to have a "spot" they like. I'm terrible at it but got a guy I have set mine up.

Could be vac line that's dry rotted and leaking or collapsing.

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Old 04-13-2011, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r View Post
Jerry this one's the 22r not re so no coolant temp sensor that affects the engine running anyway (just one for the gauge and some stupid vsv's IIRC) , but yeah kinda sounds like how yours acted though.

Did you ever get this sorted out? 8* BTDC sounds kinda advanced and more like a 22re spec, but then again it's the 82 22r not an 87 22r. And the 85 FSM downloadable isn't much help as it could be describing the wrong engine. So 8* could be right for all I know.

x2 on checking all the vac lines. Especially ones that involve VSV's which open an shut at will and can cause intermittent vac leaks, also the EGR/Modulator vac line routing. Also double and triple check that steel vacuum rail as they like to rust out and cause pinhole vacuum leaks. Had that problem with mine.
arrrrrgh.....I try
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:55 AM
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I have been working all week and I haven't had time to swap in the LCE adjustable cam gear.
I have checked and re checked all the possible culprits and I have really think at this point it is the cam timing. This block has been through a few rebuilds and has been decked at least twice. I will know something by the end of this week.
The motor really sounds good and is super tight. It is definitely lacking a little power on the top end.
There is nothing like a problem with one of these rigs to send you one a learning journey

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Old 04-13-2011, 07:58 AM
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Also try messing around with the idle mix screw on the carb. There is a good chance with the bore and decking work that it could probably use a little more fuel to it. Just don't go too far overboard with it if your not sure what you are doing with it. Follow the Weber Lean Best Idle Method, or better yet this: http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/#is
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:59 AM
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THANK YOU!!
Any help on this is much appreciated!
I don't suppose you have a picture of the mixture screws? The pic I have is so blurry it's hard to tell what is what. I think I have them right but.. eh??

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Old 04-13-2011, 08:02 AM
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are you using an aisin or a weber?
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:08 AM
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Aisian sorry
1982
Thanks Xtreme!
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:21 AM
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If it hasn't been messed with before it will have a flat cap on the hole that goes to the screw, be careful taking it off and you might need to use a small drill bit in order to get it out. If you go too far in you can hit the screw head with the bit and move the screw inadvertently. Don't get the idle speed/ high idle screws mixed up with the idle mix screw. It kinda sounds like you have.

P.S. It is NOT the one with the halfmoon it's the one below it.


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Old 04-13-2011, 01:49 PM
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When I follow the instructions on that site the idle goes up to 2000rpm and I have to adjust the air mixture (in the pic) in order to get the idle to get back to 950.
So if I did screw up these screws is there a good diagram to get back on track? I haven't found any in my FSM.
Or what should I do to get it balanced out?
CRAP I can build a motor from back to front top to bottom and I can't seem to tune 3 screws on a carb! For hell sakes.
Thanks for any help!

Last edited by toyospearo; 04-13-2011 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:12 PM
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back the idle speed screw out till it's not touching the tang on the butterflies then turn it in about 1/4 turn. Then screw the idle mix screw in all the way (not hard though) and back it out 2.5 turns. Leave the high idle adjusting screw where it is for now. Start truck on the low idle setting. If it doesn;'t want to idle turn in the idle speed screw a little more til it will idle. 500 rpm is ok at this point, once you get it to idle when off the clutch then turn the idle mix screw out a little at a time till your highest idle is reached. THen go back and lower your idle back down with the idle speed screw, then go back to the idle mix screw and turn it out some more, if your idle goes up then go to the highest idle again. then use the speed screw to lower the idle once again. If turning the mix screw doesn't raise the idle then go back to where you had just had it and raise the idle to your liking with the speed screw. All of this should be done with the engine at temp and off the choke/high idle.

DO NOT USE THE IDLE MIX SCREW TO ADJUST THE IDLE.
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Old 04-13-2011, 04:35 PM
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Okay, here is my carb.
There are three carbs listed in my FSM, NONE of which are mine. At least none that have the same screw grouping. Below I have marked each screw with a color. Could do me a giant favor and label each screw as the idle mixture, idle speed, and so fourth?? Also, when you say 2.5 turns of the mixture screw are you talking about each turn being a complete 360 revolution? I went back and fourth with a mech one day about what a turn was.
I am pretty sure I know which is which with the screws but I wanted to be sure.

Last edited by toyospearo; 04-13-2011 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:25 PM
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Xtreme will correct me if I'm wrong, but the green circled screw, lower right, is the mixture, and the green/yellow circled screw, left, is the speed screw. My guess at the red circled screw, top center, is a high idle/choke adjustment screw.

Not 100% sure though, sorry. When I looked into rebuilding the Aisin on my '83 when I got it, it was about as good as a paperweight.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:50 AM
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I think you are correct, I am not 100% though either. Not sure if I even still have my old Aisin around here, and those earlier models look a tad different. But that Green circled one is definitely the idle MIX screw I am 100% certain on that.
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:29 PM
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New motor, strange acceleration at idle, power loss..

Just put in a new motor in my 1982 22r 4x4, new head, 268 cam, bored 0.60 over, dual row chain, LCE adjustable cam gear with the same carb and intake, new electronic fuel pump. Carb was recently rebuilt and ran perfect on my old motor.
I Didn't change anything on the carb during the swap and I am experiencing an acceleration at idle after the motor comes up to temperature. The rig will race up to around 1200rpm from 950 all on its own. I continues to do this. I am also at a loss of power. Not a huge loss but noticeable.
I have timed the rig to spec. Cam timing is perfect. Everything is new tune up wise.
When the truck reaches temp I spray starter fluid along the edge of the head where the intake meets the head and the idle speeds up. There are no visible leaks. I have looked and looked. What would cause this?? There is something up but I can't figure it out. It should also have a bit more power. I have great compression and I just installed an adjustable cam gear from LCE.
I am pretty certain at this point it is carb related and that is why I started this thread.
Someone please help!

Last edited by toyospearo; 04-16-2011 at 02:32 PM.
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