brokeneck613

Like the title says, I need the trick, secret, guru logic... Something to get this thing off. I've searched to no avail.

1989 4runner, 239k, with 3vze. Removed the bolts and nuts, idler pulley, everything required per FSM. I think it is glued on with carbon and rtv or something that's even stronger. Possibly it has never been removed.

I'm waiting on parts to put the top back together and decided to remove the intake and clean it since its a mess. Knock sensor and wire are probably going to be done since ill be in there.

Thanks in advance

ThatGuy1295

Make sure all the bolts are out, then give her hell. Peice of wood and a dead blow. If it doesnt move after all that then somthing is not right.

brokeneck613

Got the BAMF and a piece of wood, worked my way around this hunk of metal and it is loose except for the back. Soaked it with PB blaster and will see how easily it comes off in the AM. Thanks for the help!

TNRabbit

Make sure you have the vacuum hoses off the TVV before you pull it off. Are you SURE you have all the bolts out?

scope103

I sure didn't see anything that looked like a "trick" to get mine off. (I don't recall if the water bypass outlet held the intake manifold down, but the FSM does say to remove it first. Did you?)

DO recheck that you've got all the bolts and nuts out -- count them! The intake is only aluminum; it will only take so much pounding.

brokeneck613

Positive all bolts and nuts are off. 12 bolts, 4 nuts. Removed the water bypass to begin with and the amount of rust in it leads me to believe the back side is rusted together. The whole system in this thing was rusted up at some point. The p/o replaced the water pump and radiator but from the looks of things, never really cleaned it.

I'll post pics when I get it off.

brokeneck613

It is loose all the way around except the drivers side rear stud hole. soaking it with pb blaster, scraping what I can out of the stud hole around the stud with an angled pick...

Any ideas on how to unstick the stud from the intake?

brokeneck613

Although the example hear is about a bolt threaded through the aluminum not a stud, the ideas on how to release it are great.

http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...ntake-manifold

Below are penetrating oil tests from the post. Looks like I'll be mixing ATF & Acetone:

"Machinist's Workshop Mag (tm)recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. the magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test."

JohnnyCanuck

ATF-Acetone was de-bunked on Mythbusters. Kroil ftw.

wcasey5

I think you missed a bolt. Double check. Happened to me, I had a hard time removing the intake until I found the bolt I missed.

scope103

I love a good de-bunk (particularly of "home-brew" stuff.)

But I went to the MythBusters site http://dsc.discovery.com/tv-shows/mythbusters , searched both "ATF" and "Acetone," and came up with nothing.

Do you have a reference?

brokeneck613

Well, I got the intake off. I tried heat and soaking the stud and the intake would not free itself. Next step was stud removal so I butted two nuts together on it and snapped the stud off about 1/4" above intake. Made for less drilling. Drilled stud out of intake and now have about 1/2" above block to work with.

This thing is corroded in, big time. I feel the intake gasket failed on the outside of the bypass port allowing serious corrosion to take place.



Here's the mess..



Got it cleaned up and will post pics later. The plan today is to try the acetone & ATF mixture and let it soak a while. I searched high and low and couldn't find anything from myth busters to debunk it so ill give it a shot.

What's the general consensus on heating the block? My plan is to let is soak for 30+ min, clean the solution off and dry area (don't want a fire, lol), apply heat to block around stud and try to back out with vise grips with out snapping stud off in block. Are there dangers to heating the block at the back on the #6 side?

brokeneck613

Just to close this thread out here's the solution that worked very well for me.

Nothing I soaked the stud with worked to loosen to serious corrosion.

After 2 days fighting with it I very carefully drilled stud and inserted helicoil and new stud. I was a little hesitant about this to start with but the broken stud drilled nicely, used new bits and cutting oil, so it really worked good.

scope103

Nice job.

Thanks for closing it out. So many postings are like a mystery novel with the last few pages missing!