I've had mine off for close to a month and haven't noticed anything different. The engine temp has stayed the same. I just put a 1k ohm resistor in the plug for the sensor and reset the check engine code, fixed the problem. you can get the resistor at radio shack for $.99 for a pack of five. I would guess you are doing this for power and fuel mileage. if so I would also clean your MAF (Mass air flow sensor) it is in the top of your air box where the tube starts to go back to the throttle body. It is a small white button thing that sticks down with a hole at the top of it. there is a mass air flow cleaner that you should use. I gained 3 mpg after I cleaned it, thats what I think did it anyway. All you do is spray it a lot and then let it sit and dry. mine had all kinds of dirt built up on it.

 

I might clean the MAF. I've been wanting to, just haven't gotten to it. And I want to remove the EGR not so much for power, but for better mileage and a smoother idle. If I finally do remove it, I'll see how well it does and decide where to go from there. If it runs better, I'll leave it off. If it doesn't, it'll go back on.

 

when cleaning the maf on a 94 from what I was told and found out there is nothing to remove except the top of the air cleaner box you can't get to the maf as well on this rig as you can some but what I clean seemed to help. good luck and cleaning the MAF takes 5 min or less from start to finish.

 

I took a few pic's w/ my cell phone but I'm having trouble uploading to this thread. If you email me, I can reply back to you with an attachment...if you're still interested in what it looks like.

 

See post 114. Did you read the thread or just skip to the end?

 

I saw your pictures and they helped me a ton. Would anyone know if any companies out there make the block off plates for this? I notice the ones you used are very clean and what not. Did you make them yourself and buy them somewhere?

I am looking to do this mod this weekend, wow this site rocks.

BTW, I have the 3VZ (in case anyone missed the sig )

 

why do you have to cut it and fill it with RTV and totally destroy the EGR valve? Why cant you just take like a piece of sheetmetal, cut it the shape of the flange, and put it between the mounting surface of the EGR valve and the plenum?

 

That's pretty much what I did. One thin piece of stainless, some gasket material and done.

 

or would just plugging the 2 vacuum lines be the equivalent of removing it?

 

Anyone who is still having trouble picturing what to do I dug around and found this (3VZ):
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f166...emoval-142505/

Good write up and it definitely made me feel more confident in tackling this mod.

 

only problem i have with this, is that the friggin check engine light always stays on, that stuff bugs me like no other.... or i would do it to. My 22re burns oil, so it already hates earth......

 

Plugging the actuating vac line would be sufficient to block the EGR. If it can't open, there's no exhaust passage. Unless, in case where the pintle valve is sticking open or leaking. So, the best way to get around any concerns is to use blocking plates.

I've done this mod to both my 4rnr's and I can say after so many years I've not noticed any real benefits to doing it. My mileage stays the same (unless there's something else going on unrelated to EGR), the motor doesn't run any better or more powerful, and junk will build up in the intake just the same. Although, the build up is well reduced if you actually have healthy oil rings.

The build up comes from carbon gases/blow by and will still escape passed the rings through the PCV system. If you have a substantial amount of that, removing the EGR or disabling it will not help but a little and only in the short term. On older engines with ring wear, it's only a matter of time before it gets worse and worse.

More notes...
Unless you have removed the cat, by removing the EGR to solve a carbon build up problem, the cat will clog faster. Not to mention, O2 sensor degradation. Plus, since the EGR does reduce combustion temps to some degree, the valves, heads and gaskets are stressed more. Of course, that be can be offset with a higher flowing exhaust system.

This is just what I've seen and gathered from what I've read and understand about how the whole thing works. Also, this is just what could happen in the long run. What you see immediately as a result maybe nice, but down the road you could be dealing with other issues.

So, anyone does whatever they want, but my opinion is permanently removing the EGR overall is not worth it. You'd be fine to temporarily solve a running issue and/or if you don't have EGR funding, but eventually you just need to fix the real problem.

Here's some good reading...
http://www.autoshop101.com/

 

I am unsure how far down the road you may be referring to or if it's specifically for Toyota motors, but I have blocked my EGR in my Eclipse GSX and have had the thing for over 4 years. I never once had an issue with gunk build up on the intake nor have my o2 sensors worn faster etc.

The only real benefit I could see coming out of this is saving a little over $100. To me...that's a nice benefit.

 

Well, I don't know why you removed the EGR on your vehicle. If the EGR valve had gone bad, even with a healthy motor, they do that over time.

Mostly what I'm commenting on is trying to resolve an issue they would have it's real cause somewhere else....worn rings. Apparently you don't have that problem, so in the past four years you're not seeing any detriments. However, in the next four years....or later...you could. The combustion temps are now higher and acclerates wear on engine oil and the motor itself, and you won't see what's been happening until you have to take the motor apart.....particularly on the pistons and cylinders.

On that note, and in regards to Toyota or others, I don't know the dynamics on anything more than the 22re and 3vze. So, I really can't say how well or badly a Mistubishi would respond to not having an EGR. But, if they are anything like Toyota designs this would certainly all apply. And, since this is a Toyota forum that's all I'm really addressing, anyway.

 

The EGR is removed from the vehicle because I upgraded to a sheet metal intake manifold. With my GSX, nothing has been left alone. The motor has even been rebuilt and the rings were fine. I would have thought motors in general had similar parts and the same theories applied. Saying that something will happen years down the road to a wearable item anyway does not really justify to me not to do it. (This is my opinion alone so please don't take offense)

Either way I am still going forward with this mod, if something breaks/wears years down the road I will address it then.

 

No offense taken.

Like I said, it's whatever anyone wants to do, but you didn't remove it because of underlying issue. And, yeah, wearable parts are wearable parts. But, my mentality is "how much longer will the motor last?". If it doesn't concern you, then it ain't a problem and no justification is needed.

I do have a question, though. When was the motor rebuilt in relation to the EGR removal? And, why was it rebuilt?

 

A couple months ago. I have DSMLink (EMS) and I raised the rev limiter on it and went to ATCO, NJ for test/tune night weekly. It's my "drag"/street car so I literally beat the piss out of it. With the continual beatings and over revs I finally snapped/chipped a valve, it went through the bottom end, and scored the cylinder wall pretty badly. The car still ran though for a good 5 months...on 3 cylinders.

When I pulled the head to find what the deal was, I tested the rings by filling each cylinder up with oil. I constantly checked it everyday and the oil levels stayed the same (which indicates to me the rings were still good). Everything was replaced anyway just for safe measure.

Not to go completely off topic...but this is the other car:

 

Yeah....I guess you're not too concerned with wear parts or mileage..lol!
That's a nice car. Hope you don't drive your 4rnr like that....

So, why are you removing the EGR on the 4rnr, anyway? I haven't read the entire thread, so I'm not sure if you've posted about that already.

 

Boostin that has got to be the funniest avatar I've ever seen!!!

 

Haha! Well my goal with my 4runner is more of a DD, fun mud, snow mobile because I make a lot of weekend trips up to the mountain during snowboarding season. I don't want to be super agressive so nice 33", some BL, and possible suspension lift are my major plans. My EGR is making this weird tick and when I pull the throttle cable the tick gets louder and there is a wine. I also replaced the cat-back/cat converter and the car still shakes just a bit. I wanted to eliminate the EGR as the issue to determine if I still have an exhaust leak at the exhaust manifolds or elsewhere, and quite frankly don't feel like spending $100+ up front.

Thanks! Some of my friends look and ask me "WTF is a ghost-kakke?!?"