Very newbie question, but I'm fed up with trying to figure it out on my own...So I bent the crap out of my idler arm and went ahead and got one with lifetime warranty. Only problem is I can't get the stud out on the arm end. First the three bolts mounting it to the frame gave me a problem, but I got those eventually. I already checked out that link for "idler arm maintenance" and he used a pickle fork to pop the stud out. I tried that but can't get it to budge. Any other tricks or tips on how to get that thing out of there?

 

Beat on the end of the center link with a BFH. The idler arm will pop free. DO NOT HIT THE ARM OR THREADS! Been using that trick for years to remove them here at work.

 

I'll try that and let you know how it works. Thanks. I didn't do it but what happens if you do hit the arm or threads? Just wondering...

 

I suppose if you are replacing the whole thing, it wont really matter. But obviously hitting the threads or the arm will bend/casue damage so if you were planning on reusing parts, that would be a bad idea.

 

Thats what I figured...so where exactly am I hitting?

 

Here:


Works like a charm anywhere there's a tie-rod end.

 

Beat me to it. What he said!

 

I'm gonna have to quote mudhippy, that worked like a charm. thanks for the help. it's amazing how quickly things go once you get that out of the way.

 

when you replace an idler arm, must you also buy a bushing and put it on first? like from autozone, they have an idler arm and idler arm bushing, or is it just autozone?

 

IDea: Make sure when using the pickle fork, have the flat-side face up, and the wedge-side facing down. Also a light coat of oil helps a bit, so the fork will have an easier go at it. yeah, it does make a difference sometimes on how the tool is held, I don't know why.

**And yeah, get a BFH. If it still wont go, pick up some marvel's or WD-40 and coat the joint, and let it sit for a bit. If it's been in there for a bit, it'll take a bit to get it loose.

EDIT: Duh, is the front end jacked up or not? *Sometimes having it not jacked gives enough free travel to aid in removal also, kinda like a re-install on the diff control arm, sometimes it just "falls into place", know what I mean?

 

The bushing is in case you want to just rebuild your old one, you don't get the same as far as warranty though.

 

They come with new bushings.

These are some manganese bronze idler arm bushings I purchased from CustomMachiningUSA.com if you were wanting to upgrade. I believe they fit 92-95 stock idler arms, not 100% sure.

 

MudHippy has all the cool trinkets