Idler Arm Replacement Problem
Very newbie question, but I'm fed up with trying to figure it out on my own...So I bent the crap out of my idler arm and went ahead and got one with lifetime warranty. Only problem is I can't get the stud out on the arm end. First the three bolts mounting it to the frame gave me a problem, but I got those eventually. I already checked out that link for "idler arm maintenance" and he used a pickle fork to pop the stud out. I tried that but can't get it to budge. Any other tricks or tips on how to get that thing out of there?
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Beat on the end of the center link with a BFH. The idler arm will pop free. DO NOT HIT THE ARM OR THREADS! Been using that trick for years to remove them here at work.
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I'll try that and let you know how it works. Thanks. I didn't do it but what happens if you do hit the arm or threads? Just wondering...
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Originally Posted by traben27
(Post 50635306)
I'll try that and let you know how it works. Thanks. I didn't do it but what happens if you do hit the arm or threads? Just wondering...
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Originally Posted by DeathCougar
(Post 50635321)
I suppose if you are replacing the whole thing, it wont really matter. But obviously hitting the threads or the arm will bend/casue damage so if you were planning on reusing parts, that would be a bad idea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1/IMG_0235.jpg |
Originally Posted by traben27
(Post 50635333)
Thats what I figured...so where exactly am I hitting?
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...A/IMG_0235.jpg Works like a charm anywhere there's a tie-rod end. |
Originally Posted by MudHippy
(Post 50635339)
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I'm gonna have to quote mudhippy, that worked like a charm. thanks for the help. it's amazing how quickly things go once you get that out of the way.
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when you replace an idler arm, must you also buy a bushing and put it on first? like from autozone, they have an idler arm and idler arm bushing, or is it just autozone?
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IDea: Make sure when using the pickle fork, have the flat-side face up, and the wedge-side facing down. Also a light coat of oil helps a bit, so the fork will have an easier go at it. yeah, it does make a difference sometimes on how the tool is held, I don't know why.
**And yeah, get a BFH. If it still wont go, pick up some marvel's or WD-40 and coat the joint, and let it sit for a bit. If it's been in there for a bit, it'll take a bit to get it loose. EDIT: Duh, is the front end jacked up or not? *Sometimes having it not jacked gives enough free travel to aid in removal also, kinda like a re-install on the diff control arm, sometimes it just "falls into place", know what I mean? ;) |
Originally Posted by ks_yota
(Post 50635399)
when you replace an idler arm, must you also buy a bushing and put it on first? like from autozone, they have an idler arm and idler arm bushing, or is it just autozone?
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They come with new bushings.
These are some manganese bronze idler arm bushings I purchased from CustomMachiningUSA.com if you were wanting to upgrade. I believe they fit 92-95 stock idler arms, not 100% sure. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...A/P5070012.jpg |
Originally Posted by MudHippy
(Post 50635424)
They come with new bushings.
These are some manganese bronze idler arm bushings I purchased from CustomMachiningUSA.com if you were wanting to upgrade. I believe they fit 92-95 stock idler arms, not 100% sure. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...A/P5070012.jpg |
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