runnerboy22

Ok I am new here and I just bought my first yota. It is a 1991 4 Runner V6 3.0L SR5 (if that matters) well I bought it knowing that it had hard starting problems I bought it for a 600 bucks...It did run before I got it home (had to get it towed) because whenever you quickly open the throttle it bogged out. Now wont start will crank though. I am mechanic and never had this problem before. Has codes 24 and 32.
has fuel pressure

has spark

so before that didnt get fuel so replaced fuel pump, filter, fuel pump relay, circuit open relay (also replaced cap rotor plugs wires stuff like that.

I would like some input I have searched and tried every suggestion that I found. any other thoughts?

runnerboy22

Also it will start for a second if I spray starter fluid in it but then die. thinking mabey fuel injectors or efi relay but I feel the relay opening and closing.

runnerboy22

Anyone? any suggestions would be nice Fuel pump is kicking on is there a relief on the rail somewhere?

kornhuskerwizard

how much fuel pressure? read newbie threads and fsms

scope103

This is a classic COR (Circuit Opening Relay) symptom. Fortunately, it's very easy to diagnose: jumper FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector to start the fuel pump. If it starts and runs now, your problem is in the COR circuit or the VAF.

(Your problem can be lots of other things too, but I suggest starting here).

DON'T drive around with the jumper in. If you get in an accident that breaks a fuel line, the fuel pump will keep pumping. That would be bad ....

runnerboy22

well I have tried 3 know good cor's so the fuel pump is kicking on... there is enough fuel pressure at the filter to put some fuel out all over (all over myself) basically about a quart before i looked and could reach the keys. now when I break the fuel rail loose (at the connecting tube) theres nothing... a lil pressure when i break it loose but when i try kicking it on while apart i just watch the fuel stay in place no movement... Does that kick any ideas?

scope103 thanks for the tip

runnerboy22

Also codes 12, 24, and 32 now but I will post some pics found some stripped back wiring need to know if that would effect starting mabey the black and white wire at the cor and also in the engine bay in front of the fuse box same color.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am not familiar with the 3.0 but had the same problem. Everything follows the manual and the way I did it. Mine would start with starting fluid bit then die. Post #664 on this link>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index27.html

scope103

When you turn the key to "On" the Fuel pump is NOT supposed to run.
Code 32 says there is a wiring problem in the VAF, which could keep the fuel pump from running after it starts.

WHY did you replace the COR --- three times? I didn't think throwing parts at a problem is the way a mechanic would fix something.

runnerboy22

Scope I replaced it 3 times because i pulled 2 from known running 4 runners and the 3rd new, thought I had bad luck with those things. well the fuel pump wont kick on till i try starting it I know that, from other threads but I did hold the flap on the air flow meter open and the fuel pump kicks on every time i open (with the key on. and did you mean MAF cant find anything relating to VAF if so can you please elaborate

and thanks all again for the help I need this thing running my accord took a poop even though I own 4 cars one is working (1990 jeep xj running, 1989 honda crx turbo engine being built, 1997 honda accord my girl smoked the clutch, and this darn 4 runner)

runnerboy22

and terry thanks for that link... on that pic though you see that black wire with the white strip that has been stripped back and had a wire just taped on it to a wire at the cor with same colors and then also at the cor the blue wire was stripped back I HAVE NO CLUE WHY>>> if you dont know wiring dont mess with it lol thats why i hate wiring and im not good at it either but I do it right....

scope103

I can't swear there is a difference between a "Mass Air Flow" sensor and a "Volume Air Flow" sensor, but Toyota calls it a VAF. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/volumeai.pdf

If you have the fuel pump running (by holding the VAF vane open), do you have any idea why you have no fuel pressure? Clog in the line (or filter)? Disconnect inside the tank? It's not THAT far from the fuel pump to the rail; that pressure has to be going somewhere.

runnerboy22

well there is fuel at the filter though... there is fuel in the rail but i can pop open the line and kick the key on and nothing just a puddle of fuel...this thing is kicking my butt up and down the road... going to get a new maf tomorrow and try it opened it up tonight and there was alot of build up and corrision in there but would that keep it from starting?

runnerboy22

Scope seen that you were helping another person out with his fuel problem how do i check to see if the fuel injectors are opening and closing just the spark plugs? also at the rubber hose at the fuel pressure regulator no fuel is coming out... just a couple thoughts on that. Also when it stops raining I will start opening wire looms and testing wires... Other then the efi relay fuel pump relay and cor is there any other relays that i should be looking for?

scope103

Slow down.

If no fuel comes out of the FPR overflow (the flexible line), then there is no pressure in the rail (or at least not enough to run). If you're sure the pump is running (you can hear it when you start it with the FP connector, or pushing the VAF vane), then the fuel line is clogged (or the pump is disconnected inside the tank). You're going to need to fix that before anything else (VAF, Injectors, wire loom, relays, ...) makes any difference at all.

runnerboy22

Ok so I went through everything starting from injectors to fuel lines i dropped the tank and had a buddy come over with his toyota pick up to swap parts (thinking it was the relay) so after dropping the tank we started with the injector relay well it fired right up so started putting the tank back up and it started dyeing well started looking around (grounded wires or something so felt the damn fuel line KINKED and so I found my problem I FEEL LIKE A BLONDE haha its right where i cant see it either

I just want to thank everyone that gave me tips and the help THIS IS AN AWSOME PLACE... all yall are very helpfull...

now to my next problem went to drive it has alot of power in first not 2 or 3rd or 4th seems sluggish they tranny fluid is kinda burnt so going to do a filter and flush hopefully that will help... any thoughts on that?

also is there the rear main seal known for going out (Leaking oil)?
is this v6 really gutluss?

runnerboy22

ok back to my original problem starting but sputtering and dyeing but it starts on it own now so there is improvement...

Im getting so frusterated with this thing im about to push it off in the ocean...

found a kink in the line so replaced the line and started great drove awsome (still gutless though) then went and drove around for a while then went down a dirt bumby (just gravel and pot hole ) road then it started cutting out after about 3 miles into the road barely made it to a real road to get a tow. So I am back to square one...
please i own 4 cars only 1 runs my honda accord

PLEASE HELP>>>