Heater Water Valve Cable
#1
Heater Water Valve Cable
Needed the heat in my 94 pickup and moved the lever to red....no heat. Had someone look at the water valve under the hood while I switched the lever inside from cold to hot, and the cable does not move. So I pulled the eyelet on the end of the cable off the water valve. Then, tried to push or pull the cable in/out of firewall and it will not move. Is this cable connected to the dash lever or to a servo??
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
55907a in this picture. my guess is it's not connected, or the cable snapped somewhere in the cable housing
(link: http://www.toyotapartseast.com/compo...-15-11779.html )
(link: http://www.toyotapartseast.com/compo...-15-11779.html )
Last edited by irab88; 11-07-2011 at 10:51 AM.
#3
Replace Heater Valve Cable-94 pickup
Can anyone tell me what all I have to remove to replace the cable that goes from the control panel to the heater valve? I saw one post that indicated they had to remove the entire dash, but that was for an older model. I'm hoping I can pull the control panel straight out to replace???? I can't find a R&R procedure in the FSM.
#4
Registered User
sub'd. "like I need another subscription". Yup same issue with mine. Eventually I am gonna wanna replace mine as well since I just hacked it and took the heater control valve out and bypassed it.
#6
Registered User
I've done a cable change without tearing the dash apart.
Tie a 3-4 foot piece of twine on each of the four cables that run to the control once you disconnect them, remove the four buttons from the control levers, then remove the face plate by carefully prying one side loose and then the other, remove the three screws that mount the heater assembly to the dash. If your clock is along side of the assembly, unplug it and remove it will give you a little more room to work with. Unplug the electrical connection and slowly remove the assembly from the dash
Dont mix up the pieces of twine and don't pull them out. Once out replace the bad cable. The twine will allow you to pull each cable back in to where it belongs. Reassemble!
Tie a 3-4 foot piece of twine on each of the four cables that run to the control once you disconnect them, remove the four buttons from the control levers, then remove the face plate by carefully prying one side loose and then the other, remove the three screws that mount the heater assembly to the dash. If your clock is along side of the assembly, unplug it and remove it will give you a little more room to work with. Unplug the electrical connection and slowly remove the assembly from the dash
Dont mix up the pieces of twine and don't pull them out. Once out replace the bad cable. The twine will allow you to pull each cable back in to where it belongs. Reassemble!
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#8
Registered User
The only thing the water valve does is make the cold setting just a bit colder. I did away with my water valve a few months ago and still have full control of hot and cold. I say open the valve and not worry about getting it working again.
#9
Registered User
Having constant flowing coolant through the heater core does affect the cooling efficiency of the radiator, especially if it's an older one. It also causes a prolonged warmup of the engine especially in cooler climates.
#10
If it's broke at the hot and cold lever in the dash just take a pair needle nose and make a 90 degree bend and put back trough the hole on the lever then bend it again so won't come out, I had to do that to my old 87 Toy when I bought it in 96, If that is the problem and you do this route, by doing so it make the wire shorter and the lever might not go all the way so don't force it when it stops then that's the further it will go, but does open and close valve like before but saves time and you don't have to buy a new cable.
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#11
Registered User
Does anybody know where to buy replacement environment control cables other than the dealer? RockAuto does not have them, nor to the typical local part stores. Mine are rusted and won't move. Broke dash trying to move them.
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