No heat
#1
No heat
I installed new radiator, hoses, water pump, timing belt, AC condenser, compressor, hoses, belts, everything except the frame and hood! Now I have no heat. I am in FL so do not know if it worked before I started but looking at water it is unlikely.
Filled system with water to check for leaks and to flush, no leaks!!
Anyway 93 Toyota, V6 auto with AC. Fan works on all speeds, all flaps and such seem to be operational.
Hoses to heater core are not getting hot, so I removed the hose to the water valve on the block side,I'm thinking this is the supply side? Hmmm no water? checked water valve and it seems to be working properly.
I removed the other hose return?? I think. Nothing, no water. I flushed the core and the water that came out was nasty, but it did come out and seems to have a good flow. Tested water valve and it is functioning.
Looked at manual and there does not seem to be any other valves, What should I be looking for next??
Jim
Filled system with water to check for leaks and to flush, no leaks!!
Anyway 93 Toyota, V6 auto with AC. Fan works on all speeds, all flaps and such seem to be operational.
Hoses to heater core are not getting hot, so I removed the hose to the water valve on the block side,I'm thinking this is the supply side? Hmmm no water? checked water valve and it seems to be working properly.
I removed the other hose return?? I think. Nothing, no water. I flushed the core and the water that came out was nasty, but it did come out and seems to have a good flow. Tested water valve and it is functioning.
Looked at manual and there does not seem to be any other valves, What should I be looking for next??
Jim
#2
Hoses to heater core are not getting hot, so I removed the hose to the water valve on the block side,I'm thinking this is the supply side? Hmmm no water? checked water valve and it seems to be working properly.
I removed the other hose return?? I think. Nothing, no water. I flushed the core and the water that came out was nasty, but it did come out and seems to have a good flow. Tested water valve and it is functioning.
I removed the other hose return?? I think. Nothing, no water. I flushed the core and the water that came out was nasty, but it did come out and seems to have a good flow. Tested water valve and it is functioning.
It sounds like a big air bubble. Haven't seen much of that with the V6. Make sure you take your time bleeding the air out of the system. On a cold engine remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Move the heat selector to full hot and leave the heater blower off.
You may need to lift the front end as high as you can get it but that is normally something you do on the 22re, not sure about the V6. It won't hurt that's for sure.
Make sure the coolant level is just below the neck. No vanes or tubes should be exposed.
Look at what the coolant is doing inside the radiator. Look at the heat gauge once in a while and don't let it overheat. When the coolant starts rushing past the radiator filler neck that indicates the thermostat is open.
Run the engine like that for maybe 20 minutes and if the coolant level drops add to it.
Top it off with coolant and install the radiator cap then go for a drive. If you don't eventually get heat something is wrong. Maybe too low of a thermostat.
Last edited by Odin; 07-19-2015 at 01:52 PM.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Your in Florida How could you even tell if it is working??
If your not getting flow to the heater core thermostat not open
A Bad radiator cap can do this the quality of Aftermarket caps is really bad.
blockage in the block not allowing the water to flow.
Coolant level to low.
Heater hoses bad and just collapsing blocking flow.
Heater hose kinked
If your not getting flow to the heater core thermostat not open
A Bad radiator cap can do this the quality of Aftermarket caps is really bad.
blockage in the block not allowing the water to flow.
Coolant level to low.
Heater hoses bad and just collapsing blocking flow.
Heater hose kinked
#4
Thanks for the responses, greatly appreciated. I rehooked the hose not connected to the water valve. Dropped the clamp and it is gone somewhere? Put as much water in the core as I could and installed the other hose (without dropping clamp)
I am glad this happened now as the water in the core was extremely nasty, likely been in there a long time and unlikely it would have flushed out. It may have even have been a blockage?
Refilled the system and it is working now, so anyway I fixed it! How? I don't know? What was wrong, I don't know? Damn I'm good. Thanks Jim
I am glad this happened now as the water in the core was extremely nasty, likely been in there a long time and unlikely it would have flushed out. It may have even have been a blockage?
Refilled the system and it is working now, so anyway I fixed it! How? I don't know? What was wrong, I don't know? Damn I'm good. Thanks Jim
#5
If you missed that you're not as good as you think you are
The block and heater core both need a very thorough flush. Without it the leftover rust and debris will spread to your new radiator and you can expect problems down the road with electrolysis and rust.
The block and heater core both need a very thorough flush. Without it the leftover rust and debris will spread to your new radiator and you can expect problems down the road with electrolysis and rust.
Last edited by Odin; 07-19-2015 at 04:45 PM.
#6
I have to agree with that. My Stant cap was bad right out of the box. The only other cap I could find in town was made in Israel. Alot of the thermostats the parts stores stock are made there too. I'll be replacing my cap with a Denso or a Sankie.
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