Poppie51

I am trying to get my 1988 22r to crank after replacing the head gasket. It will turn over and run for about a second then dies.The spark plugs are firing and the cold sensor injector is getting fuel but I don't think the main injectors are firing.How is the best way to test them to know for sure whether they are firing or not? I tested the voltage at the first injector and both pins have 11.8 volts. The battery itself has 12.08 volts. Both pins having voltage doesn't sound right to me. Is this correct? Thanks

Flash319

The ecu grounds the injector to fire it. So your 12v on both wires is right. It is hard to tell if the injector is firing, but you can usually hear them or feel with a screw driver or something pushed against it. Check your distributor timing. The usual issue people have is not timed properly.

TC22RE

Just a thought, after replacing the head gasket, there are several grounds that you had to remove when you took the head off. I would make sure they are all attached. If I recall correctly, there is one on the back/side of the head, near the #4 spark plug. Also, there is a big bundle of grounds that attaches to the intake plenum near the #1 runner. I mistakenly forgot to reattach it after doing a head once, engine wouldn't run. And there is also one that bolts up near the power steering pump, (I think). If it ran before the head gasket, and not after. I would check those grounds first.

Poppie51

OK, thanks TC22RE. I'll check those ground wires. The engine ran great until the head gasket blew so i'm sure it's something simply that i'm overlooking. Thanks for the info.

Poppie51

I just went and looked at the ground wires. I have one going from the battery to the fender,one going from the battery to the engine block,one coming from the wiring harness near the intake manifold that is actually disconnected at the moment but was connected earlier to the intake manifold. I wasn't sure this was a ground and tried to post to yotatech to determine that it was actually a ground wire but I lost internet connected before posting. Another wire coming from the wiring harness just below the alternator going to the power steering bracket and the last wire going from the engine head to the firewall. Does this sound right and are there any more grounds I need to check? Thanks for the help.I know i'm posting a lot on here but can't afford taking it to a mechanic and need it back on the road asap.

TC22RE

From what I recall, those all sound correct. The ground going to the intake manifold does need to be attached, you said it isn't right now ya? I would go ahead and re-attach it. I'm pretty sure it killed my fuel pump along with some other stuff, when I left it disconnected by accident. Once you've got it reattached give it a shot, if it still acts up, I would check any other electrical connections you may have unplugged during the head removal, as well as anything else that may have accidentally gotten knocked loose when you were taking things out.

Robert m

iTrader: (2)

Did you happen to disconnect the AFM while doing this job and not hook it back up? It starting and stalling out a second later is usually a sign of a bad or disconnected AFM

Poppie51

I also have another wire that may be causing the whole problem. Does anyone know what this wire is for and where it connects? It has a rubber gourmet on it that looks like it may be to keep dust or water away from the connection. It comes out of the wiring harness near the intake manifold and the best I can tell it is coming through the passenger side firewall but I could be mistaken since it is in the harness. It is a single black wire and has 1.65 volts with ignition on and 0 volts with ignition off.

TC22RE

Robert M makes a good point. The AFM being unplugged will result in the same symptoms you have. I will say that the big wire bundle in that picture (not the wire you questioned us on) does need to be attached to the intake manifold. Slip it over one of the studs when you tighten up the intake. The wire in question tho, I am not certain. The only way to know for sure is to look very close at your intake for anything missing a plug. Also look at the passenger side of the block for anything missing a plug. If I recall correctly, there would only be an oil pressure sender and possibly a knock sensor there. Neither of which will keep the engine from firing. Hook up that big bundle of wires to the intake first, see what happens!


Edit: Thinking more about it, and looking at the location of that wire, it probably goes to oil pressure sender or the knock sensor. Looks like it got pulled out of the plugin accidentally. I'd check those (located on the passenger side of the block, near the oil filter).

2nd Edit: After attaching that big bundle of wires (grounds) to the intake, if it still doesn't stay running. Jump the Fp and +B in your diagnostic box (near the fuse block), and see if it runs. Doing so forces the fuel pump to run continuously. ( if it does fire, dont drive with the jumper in place, lets figure out whats up from there )

Poppie51

The AFM is still connected however, after checking the AFM I attempted to start the engine again and now my starter is dragging. The battery has 11.81 volts but it sounds like it has a dead battery. I'm wondering if the starter is going bad causing the engine to not be turning fast enough to start., Is this a possibility?

TC22RE

Well, since your original problem is it starts then dies, I would say no. I'm willing to bet the battery is just getting low after all the testing. It's possible the starter is dragging, but I don't think that is the cause of your problems right now. Charge that sucker up overnight, get some rest, and hit it hard again in the morning!

Poppie51

Thanks TC22RE, The oil pressure sender is connected but i'm not sure about the knock sensor. Will have to find what that looks like and it's location but if it's near the oil filter it shouldn't be a problem.I'll check it tomorrow.It's after midnight now and every time I go outside my neighbors dogs starts barking so if I keep it up i'm going to have more problems than an engine that wont start.lol Thanks for all the help.

scope103

"Starts and runs for a few seconds" is the classic sign of a VAF-COR problem. The STA (start) signal closes the COR to run the fuel pump, and once you let go of the key the switch in the VAF keeps the COR closed. You're probably not getting that signal to the COR, the COR opens, and the fuel pump stops. A second or two later the pressure in the fuel rail drops far enough to stop the engine. That's why Robert M pointed you to the VAF connector.

Fortunately, this is the single easiest thing to diagnose on a Toyota. Put your voltmeter on FP (in the diagnostic connector) to ground. You'll get 12v with the key to start, and once the engine starts (and you release the key) it should stay at 12v. If it drops, your fuel pump is not getting power, and the problem is in the VAR-COR circuit.


11.81 IS a dead battery. Charge it before you do anything else.

Poppie51

TC22RE,you were right about the wire connecting to the knock sensor. I charged my battery and the starter was still dragging so I replaced it. It spins at least twice as fast now. While working on the starter I noticed the knock sensor and sure enough the wire wasn't attached. I didn't have anyone to help while testing the VAF - Cor. Maybe someone will be available for a few minutes tomorrow to help. I appreciate everyone who has offered advice. It means a lot knowing I can get on yotatech and have so many people willing to help. Thanks again.

Poppie51

OK, I have the ground connected to the intake manifold. I connected the wire I questioned you guys about to the knock sensor. I connected my volt meter from the Fp and ground. When the engine is turning over I am getting 10 volts but the engine doesn't start so when the key is released the voltage drops back to 0 volts. I jumped the Fp and +B in the diagnostic box and the fuel pump runs and I have fuel to the cold start sensor but the engine still acts as though it isn't getting fuel. I tested the front fuel injector and both wires has power. How can I be certain the injectors are firing? What is between the cold start sensor and the spark plugs besides the injectors that could prevent fuel flow? Where is the best place to either pour fuel or spray starting fluid into the engine to see if the engine will start? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

RAD4Runner

You mean one side of injector connector has 12V and the other also has 12V? There will always be 12V on both sides of the injector when IG is on, unless the ECU pin 10 or 20 connects one side to ground (split second) to fire injectors.

Did you inspect the crimp(s) in red and the wires (in orange)? they connect to ECU so it can ground the negative side of injectors. They're tucked hear hot intake manifold, get corroded and stiff and easy to break.

Poppie51

Yes, both sides of the injectors connection has 12 volts. Are the th wires in the diagram connecting the injectors to the ECU? I haven't checked those connections but will do that next.

Poppie51

I just found a chart at http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/ showing the engines that are used by Toyota. It is showing the 1988 Toyota 4Runner with fuel injection to be the 22RE. I have been told by several people that the engine I have is a 22R. I don't know if they are just classifying all the 22R's into one category but the plate on the firewall is illegible so is there any other way to identify the engine?

RAD4Runner

I think the block is classified as a 22R.
If it has a carburator then it is a 22R. If it has fuel-injectors then it is a 22R-E (stands for fuel injected 22R).

Poppie51

I checked all the wires and terminals that RAD4RUNNER mentioned but everything seemed to be in good shape. I was told that I could test the injectors by removing the distributor and rotating it while listening to the injectors. As I rotated the distributor I could hear all 4 injectors making a clicking sound. I don't know if fuel was passing through them but it sounds like they were opening and closing. I am getting fuel to the cold start sensor but not sure where to test for fuel past that point. Another question I have concerns the timing. I have been told to set the timing mark that is located on the harmonic balance to "0" others say to set it on "5". I've also been told that setting it on "0" is for the engine with a carburetor and setting it on "5" is for EFI. I have a four cylinder that is fuel injected, which mark should I place the timing mark on? And will there be enough difference between the two marks to keep the engine from starting? I placed a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole and when I reached TDC the timing mark was on the edge of the metal plate that is used for timing. Mine doesn't have the numbers written on it like the ones online has but it would be on the edge near the "0". And the marks on the cam should be straight up,12 o'clock, right? Thanks for all the help i've been receiving.