Extremesolo

My son just bought a 1995 4Runner with the 3.0 and an automatic transmission. We went to pick it up tonight and it will not start. It has a brand new battery with a measured voltage over 12V. The dome light works but nothing inside. No dash lights, power windows, sunroof, etc. The dome light is fed from the fuse panel under the hood but all interior items are fed from the fuse box in the driver's kick panel. It seems to me like the interior fuse panel is not getting any power. Could it be a bad ignition switch or is more likely a corroded or broken wire? If it is likely a wire, any ideas on which wires/connections to check? I checked all fuses and they all seemed good with none being blown. I was having a difficult time figuring out exactly how the interior fuse box gets its power but it was dark and looking with my headlamp tonight just wasn't cutting it. The previous owner said he last drove it about two weeks ago and said everything worked fine then. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

RAD4Runner

Start by finding a schematic and getting a multi-meter. Pls see my signature.
Then put us AT YOUR VEHICLE.
Share exactly what you see, hear, feel what you are dealing with.
I have a 22RE but could help IF I SEE, HEAR, FEEL WHAT YOU ARE DEALING WITH.

Extremesolo

Ok, so I have the 4runner in my garage now so I can work on it. A little more info - I cannot get the transmission to shift out of park even if I use the over ride button. I had to disconnect the driveshaft to get it on the flatbed to get it home. I have the led the starter relay and I have 70 ohms between pins 1 and 2 . I still have no power to anything on the inside except the dome and door lights. It is really frustrating and I don't know what to check next. I cleaned the positive and ground connections at the battery and replaced the cable from the battery to the under hood fuse box but it did not make any difference. I was trying to research today and saw on a few forums people who seemed to have the exact same issues but no one ever came back to post to say what their fix actually was.
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scope103

You mentioned the battery voltage, which suggests you have a multimeter. Good! If that's not true, and you don't have a multimeter, Bad!

Here's the '93 manual for power source. Proceed carefully; the wiring is probably correct for your vehicle, but the exact location of the fuses moves around a little year-year. Given that you have power to the dome lights but "nothing" powered from J/B 1, that suggests one of the "big" (30 or 40 amp) fuses has blown. First, check the headlights and horn. If they work, you're getting closer. On my '94, the 40 amp fuses are JCASE style, so they can be pulled out. The 80amp fuse is a PAL style fuse, which is bolted from below. If you pull on it hard enough, you'll just break it.

Use your multimeter, measuring voltage to ground, to work your way through the fuses to find which are powered (on BOTH sides) and which are not.

Good luck!

RAD4Runner

Extremesolo,
Yours is simple problem.to fix IF we can see exactly what you are working with.
Post clear pictures of what you are dealing with. See my posts for example.
I suspect the 80A or 100A fusible link on this schematic.

Extremesolo

I do indeed have a multimeter. Last night I pulled the 80A fuse and checked it for continuity and it definitely had continuity. I can look down at the top of the 40A fuse and the other large fuse and neither of them appear to be blown but I did not pull them to actually test for continuity. I did try the headlights and they work but I did not try the horn at all. I am currently at work so I will have to wait till I get home to try that. The battery was purchased a few days ago but I put it on the charger all night last night just to be sure it is at full strength.I talked my son into buying this and selling his Ranger and now the 4runner won't start and is just sitting looking pretty in the garage. I know it is going to be a great vehicle once we get these few bugs worked out.

Extremesolo

One more thing I just remembered. Last night I was in the kick panel fuse box and had my test light. I pulled what I assumed was the power feed connector (it had a 10 or 12 ga white wire and several smaller wires on the connector). I clipped the ground lead to the door pin and the light lit when I touched the pin inside the molded connector where the white wire connects. So, assuming this was indeed the power wire, it seems that I do have power to the kick panel fuse box but I have no power out of it. I can not visibly see where that box derives its ground from. The previous owner assures me all he did was install the new battery prior to me purchasing the vehicle and that it worked fine two weeks ago.

scope103

Oops! The link to the manual: http://web.archive.org/web/201204170.../2powersou.pdf didn't make it into my last post.

Make things easier. "Regular" (ATC) fuses have two slightly recessed metal tabs on top, one on each side of the fuse. Connect one end of your multimeter (or even test light) to ground, and touch each tab on each fuse. If you get two lights, good. One light, fuse is blown. No lights, the fuse is not powered.

As you can see from the page of the manual, knowing which fuses HAVE power will tell you where the break is. Also, do these tests with the ignition switch on.

Extremesolo

I turned the key on and tested the fuses inside the cab with a trouble light. The only fuses that light it up are the ignition fuse and the stop fuse. None of the other fuses light on either side of the fuse. Based on the schematic of the electrical system, I believe there is likely and issue with the ignition switch and it is not sending power to any of the other fuses. Does this make sense? The only thing I don't understand is why the power door locks will not work and the transmission will not shift out of park even trying to use the bypass switch. The door locks should not be dependent on the ignition switch position and I still have no idea why the transmission will not come out of park. I'm open to any other suggestions or input at this point.

scope103

Do you have the 30amp door "Power" fuse? Is it powered? Did you check any fuses under the hood? Did you check both with the key to "on" and to "accessory"? The FSM gives the pinouts to the ignition switch; did you check for power in and out?

You could have a problem with the ignition switch. You could just replace it without any further testing. There's a small chance that will help, and you'll only be out ... $91 https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...445035120.html (I'd test the switch first, but it's up to you.)

Last time I checked, the transmission lock bypass is mechanical, so should have nothing to do with your electrical problem.

Extremesolo

All under hood fuses have power. I only checked the in cab fuses with the switch to on and not accessory. I have not removed any of the panels to gain access to the ignition switch yet to check it for power. I don't know how or why the transmission is locked. I had searched through some threads from a few years ago and saw someone with a very similar issue to mine but unfortunately there was never a fix to his problem actually posted so I don't know if he ever got it resolved or not.