dromomaniac

I just replaced the left axle assembly on my 94 pickup following the instructions in the following post:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-w-pix-144314/

Worked just great. Getting the a-arm level is key, and it took me a while to figure out that the jackstand I was using was too tall. Using this method, I didn't disconnect anything but the wheel, cap, flange, c-clip, the washer underneath it, the tulip joint, and the shock (which didn't turn out to be necessary).

Zelephant

I was told the whole deal about "if you get the angles right, the axle will slide out inboard." Baloney. There is no way the CV is getting past those studs. I tried unbolting the ball joint and using chisels to pry it off the knuckle, but there's no way that's working, either. I tried other stuff too, like jacking up the opposite rear tire, but nothing worked. I got really frustrated. Since my truck is project, and not registered, I worked on other things, until someone suggested pry bars instead of chisels. Knuckle popped off the BJ, CV slid out, bob's your uncle...

scope103

Several have said this but I think it could be clearer: you need the control arm UP, not down. If you let the wheel dangle (like you have a jack stand under the frame holding up the truck) the half-axle will never come out. You need to put the jack under the lower control arm (or remove the wheel, and lower the hub onto a jack stand) so that the weight of the front of the truck is compressing the torsion spring (and lifting the control arm).

That alone has been enough for me, but others have needed a wee bit of more compression by lifting on the opposite corner.

You don't need to take the studs out of the differential flange, or remove the ball-joints, or the shocks. You can do that if you want, but it is not necessary if you lift the lower control arm.

peow130

Interesting.
I got mine in AND out past those studs.
The trick is the angling of the CV...
And you need the studs at a specific location too.
It was a two person job really.

Next time i'll try taking off the knuckle lol

dromomaniac

That's well put. Using the method I did, the whole front end is lowered, causing the control arm to move outward (and down), but it is moving 'upward' relative to the diff cross member.

I'm still boggled at how to get the axle in with all the tulip studs in place. I really tried at it for a number of hours, including with a second set of hands and neither of us could get it. We were really going for it, too. However, pulling two of the tulip studs made it ridiculously easy, and I think the whole job would've taken under a half-hour, maybe even a few minutes, had I just done that to start with. What's more, if you leave all the control arm connections alone, you don't have to worry about messing up the alignment (I think? ).

nevermore1701

Yeah, I did knock out two of the studs when I changed mine. Between that, the diagonal jack-stand, and jacking up the LCA, it was cake.

It was not cake, however, figuring all that out in the first place

dromomaniac

Amen to that! It was only when I ran out and grabbed a new set of shorter jack-stands that it all came together. And I'm missing about 1/4 of the skin of my hand from trying to wrangle that little monkey past the tulip.

Sadly, my one really good torque wrench started acting funny when i reset the nuts on the tulip studs (probably because I had like a mile of adapters and extensions on so I cold reach the nut to start with), so now I have to go trolling through the local shops to see if I can get someone to confirm my work.

Again though, having gone through the process, I've convinced it beats the heck out of the method described in my much-despised Chilton, or the FSM.

bikerbob

So after reading some tips here I got both cv's replaces. My method was to use 2 car ramps. One was under the front wheel I as working on and the other was under the tire on the opposite side rear. The lower a arm rose up to a good angle and the cv slid right out.

Also one thing I have not seen mentioned yet. On the drivers side axle flange there is a cutout between two of the six studs. Rotate the cutout so that it is facing down toward the ground. It give you plenty of room to pull that cv out.

dutchboy

X2...
I had no problems getting mine out...in my driveway,by myself. Never took no ball joints apart or A arms. Just leveled the A arms,took shock out completely,a few swear words and finaggling and out she came.
Now I have to do it all over again. After market half shafts are horrible for longevity. Shop around for a good one. I got mine from Autozone and now have to replace it after only 4 years.

FredTJ

Since you only rarely wheel (information from your other post), pop on a set of manual hubs and leave 'em unlocked except when you do actually need 4 wd.
Your axles aren't turning and you'll have no wear on 'em.
Simple as.




Fred

jbtvt

Been a few years since I did the CVs on my 88 Runner but almost sure I had to remove the large axle nut you're talking about. To get enough room to slide it out I unbolted the upper balljoint, tie rod end, and sway bar, put a bottle jack between the lower and upper a arms, jacked them apart with the wheel turned out and just yanked the cv out.

BluVudu

That's basically what we are gonna do next time around. I have to have a hand with it and the only friend who will help me out is a truck driver so I have to wait till he is home and has time to do it. Thanks dude

Lumpy

This is going to look a little different but It will get you going. Really helped me out when I did mine.
I did not have to remove the big nut. 4 bolts holding the bottom ball joint, the lower shock bolt and the bolt in the center of the hub. Pull the wheel assembly towards you and then slide the shaft out.
Don't forget about the c clip either.

Again thank you Toyospearo!!!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-158106/

.

jb9437

sorry but, what's a tulip stud? the six coming off the diff flange

BluVudu

I got one of the cv's changed. After following the directions in the Haynes manual to the T, I ended up cutting the tie rod end off and also the stabilizer bar connecting rod to the lower A Arm to get the damned thing out. When I do the other side, I will just buy those as well and chop chop so I can get the thing done.

buckz6319

I know this is a old thread(I have all ready done this but I'm searching for info and photos), the cut out on the drive flanges positioned downward in conjunction with removing the bottom shock bolt worked for me with tires on the ground.if my memory server me well I think I did this with tires on the ground.....

toyospearo

You are welcome!!
I really didn't have too much trouble with the CV R & R. Pulling the wheel assembly out and slide the shaft out is about the krux of it.

roys914runner

thanks to everyone one who posted this i my verry first toyota and im replacing one my self im going to go out and try the lifting of the a arm never thought about that