I got a 94 manual 4x4 with the 22RE. Driving the other day it started to bog when accelerating and than the check engine light would come on and off and finally stayed on when idling, but would go off when I started driving it. I checked the code and it came back with 22. According to the Haynes manual that means: Water Temp Sensor Circuit, Water Temp Sensor, or ECU. I replaced the Water Temp sensor and it is still acting this way. Is there anyway to test the ECU, before spending money on another one? Checked all the plugs and wires also. What else should I be looking for?
I tried to upload a video, but can’t seem to get it to load.

Thanks

 

We had this issue 23 years ago. Shop put in new rings.

I really doubt that was the problem, so I am interested in this one. Did you check the basics, like a clogged cat?
Is the cooling system actually free of air? If the sensor is in a pocket of air...

 

If the ECU perceives the water temp is colder than it actually is it may add fuel to the mix causing the motor to bog down. Since you replaced the temp sensor already check your wiring and PIN connectors for faults. If those pan out you may have a bad ECU. That would all be according to the code 22. I'd still inspect the air intake for bird or mice nests, chewed wires shorting out somewhere, and all the basics, just in case. Sometimes just a loose connection can cause low voltage and that causes all kinds of weird things to happen.

When was the last time you checked your fuel filter? I'd check your fuel pressure also.

 

How do you check if the cat is clogged?

 

That is the plan today, is check out the fuel filter.

 

Happened to my months-old Nissan Sentra in late 80's. Got starved of fuel when accelerating. Used STP Fuel Injector cleaner and it went away.

Pressure Gage Piggybacked on CSI: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52312190

Exactly which water temp sender did you replace? Also a good idea to eliminate doubt on connectivity and cleanliness issue. Manual does not say this but ALL temp senders, their connections, mounting threads and where they mount on the block need to be cleaned to bare, shiny metal every 25 or so years . Some of them need electrical connection to block for ground.

 

And those sensors, like BVSV's that are in your coolant, need to be removed and wire wheel polished to remove the rust/corrosion that turns them black. This makes sure they remain accurate and respond correctly.

 

The circled one.
Is it true that to relieve the fuel line pressure, you can just remove the fuel cap? Read this somewhere, but have a hard time believing it.

 

one-half true.
First, even a very tight fuel system will lose all its pressure in a few hours. (The spec is "stay above 21psi for 5 minutes." http://web.archive.org/web/201003261...87fuelpump.pdf ) Just let your rig sit overnight, and the pressure will be as low as it can go.
Second, gasoline is incompressible. If you open a connector with the full 37psi behind it (fuel pump off), you might lose 5-10ml. Just stuff a paper towel under the connection you're opening. And wear safety glasses. (But you're already doing that, aren't you?)
But, third, even though gasoline is incompressible, fuel vapor is anything but. On a warm day, the fuel vapor will positively pressurize your fuel tank. Not by much, but easily enough to slowly push gallons of fuel out an open connection (as the fuel leaves the tank, more fuel vaporizes, maintaining the pressure). That is why you remove the fuel cap, to relieve the fuel vapor pressure above the fuel in the tank.

You'll sometimes read to run the engine, and pull the COR to shut off the fuel pump, with the idea that the engine will run down the pressure in the rail. Or, you might hear to use a hand vacuum pump on the fuel pressure regulator, and use the hand pump until the engine dies. These are all a waste of time. The engine will lean out and die long before the fuel pressure gets much below 20 psi. But more importantly, see the second point above. The amount of fuel you'll lose with 37psi v. 20psi will be less than you can measure.

Last, and certainly not least, remember that the crush washers (on either side of a banjo connector) must be replaced every time. Easiest to get from a dealer, but cheaper than dirt even there. You'll hear occasionally someone who will say "I reused mine, and I didn't see a leak." You're dealing with gasoline that could dribble out onto a hot engine. Is that really a chance you want to take?

 

Not very clear but that seems the temperature GAGE sender - Will not affect running. Here are other temp sensors, including BVSV mentioned above:

 

Replaced the fuel filter and thermostat today and that did t help the issue at all. Looking for parts to be able to test fuel pressure also.

I’ll look at those other sensors that RAD showed me pictures of. Sorry my picture wasn’t more clear.

Thanks

 

I believe you can rent a fuel pressure gauge kit from a local parts house. Harbor Freight sells some pretty cheap also.

 

The HarborFreight fuel pressure tester IS a good deal https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html , but doesn't have the adapter, and has a somewhat non-standard connection. You'll have to plumb it up on your own.

I recommend the Actron CP7838, because it uses the more-standard Schraeder fitting, and it comes with the banjo adapter (and even has the crush washers). I installed the adapter on my truck and just left it there. The gauge itself is out of harm's way in the tool cabinet.

 

The green Temp sensor had a crack in the plastic, allowing it to move, disrupting the connection. When I checked voltage everything was good, but couldn’t tell that it was broke until I moved everything out of the way to pull it out. For now she is running like normal.

Thanks for everyone’s help and input!

idyota

 

I edited my post above to use yotatech photo hosting, instead of google photos.
I think the one with green connector is the Sender for the ECU, so yes, that would affect running.