haha ok. they are so hard to remove! I have no leverage

 

PB BLaster.............let them sit.

can you raise the diff??

I am running out of available time here.......raise and support that diff , it's probably making things bind.

 

ok I'll be blast them now and let em sit. yes I can raise the diff. Thanks 92!

 

gotta go....I'll check back in in a little bit....it's the end of the day routine here....round up 2 kids etc.....

 

So my goals went to hell today. The 4 17mm bolts that secure the front diff crossmember are an absolute pain in the @ss! I'm gonna wait for my cousin to give me a lift to sears to get a couple 17 mm wrenches.

All I got accomplised today was:
- Unbolt oil pan and pickup
-Get timing cover off
-clean timing cover surface with many razor blades.

Side note:
I was pretty thrilled when the crank pulley slid off. that was pretty nice after that it turned ugly.



Hopefully the bolts will be easier to remove after a night of pb blastin and some new 17mm wrenches.

Goals for tomorrow:
- Get front diff cross member off.
-remove and clean oil pan.
- start the reassembly of timing components.

I really gotta get this all buttoned up by this sunday and the aboslute latest is before my dad comes to visit april 10th! God grant me speed.

 

good luck man, you are on the right track

 

Razor blades work really well I use them as well. Make sure you get the older for them it will make all the difference. When you get to the aluminum parts take heed. The aluminum is soft and it is possible to get bad groves real quick. Keep it flat and take your time use a bunch of break cleaner to get the old gasket material soft.



Seem like a good list but I'd stay away from the Locktite! I didn't use any RVT on the intake gaskets at all. I'd only use it where the FSM says to use it. Now some folks will use a "very light" film on the paper gaskets. I didn't need to use any. Now I didn't pull the timing cover or the pan, just the heat and the manifolds were completely out.



I would not use anything on the HG I know some folks like to use it but I wouldn't. I like the smell of PB Blaster!!!



Ok now to keep on reading...Nice little project here.

 

Ok all caught up now...Your doing quite well keep it up!!!

 

Thanks lumpy. I just gotta get the crossmember off! It would be nice to use like a cordless impact wrench to get it off. I saw one at sears for like 100 bucks. rated at 200ft/lbs of torque. Getting that could potentially speed things up. That would be sweet. haha!

Question to all:
- What should I do next? After I finally get the pan off and cleaned?
if you were in my shoes what would be your next course of action or courses?

Heres the badboy I was talking about:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917090000P

 

I'd hesitate on power tools.....I didn't need them....like to be able to feel what's happening....i really don't think you need it.

let me look at those bolts a little, i was just doing some research to identify a part for YOTAROB.....searching my pics. but i do have those bolts in a box ...I really didn't have that much trouble with them.

as far as what's next?.......with the pan off, you have some serious cleaning to do...of the pan, the oil strainer and tube and have to start thinking about going in reverse order now.

get your timing cover assembled and ready to go....your head is off, get your timing chain parts ready to go and possibly installed....that's where i am at.

 

were you able to jack the diff up at all??

 

yes, you need a 17mm socket and I assume a corresponding 17mm wrench for the other side (nut).....these bolts are about 3'' or so long, with about only 1'' of thread.

 

I can get my diff high enough to hit the pan. I'm not sure why my bolts are so difficult. I know when I get down there I can't break them loose even with a cheater bar.

 

Sometimes you gotta grunt a bit to get them to break.

 

OK...we'll be right over....LUMPY, I'll pick ya up in 10 minutes.








there are little holes on top of that crossmember.......I think...i will check for sure.....you can probably spray PB Blaster at the inside of the bolts from there......that's my only other idea....that and eat a steak and potatoes dinner

 

here's a silly idea......put the socket on the NUT side, not the BOLT HEAD side........hopefully that's a help.

 

that's a good idea. I'll try that. Did you just wrench away and they came out?

 

I believe that will likely be your solution....or did you mean the steak?

put a wrench on the head of the bolt because it will eventually want to spin too.

 

Always when you can turn the nut not the bolt...they will turn much easier. Good call 92.

See you in 10!!!

 

Man right now I really wish I was in the states! haha! ohh boy well none of my friends are texting back so that means I might have to walk to sears... thats like a 30-40 min walk.. maybe a vice grips will work..