I got the pan on. I had to jack up the engine though. The only other way within my limited time and tools would have been to drop the whole front diff assembly. I tried but couldn't get the bolts on the CV's to come off, So I went with what stepside suggested and jacked up the engine. As for the front diff... I'm going to try it tomorrow. My plan is follow stepsides suggestion and loosen the rear bolts (vertical ones) and pitch my front diff upwards so I can get the bloody cross member in. The only problem after that is getting the front diff mount (horizontal bolt) into the cradle of the front diff. I mean maybe once it seats I could do the punch and hammer trick but Getting that fat bushing in is going to be a pain. Then after I can finally drive!!... after I figure out the trouble codes

 

after you get the three mounting bolts loose, you should have no prob. maneuvering that thing around. When you get the cross mem on there, just to play it safe and easy, use your punch to open up the diff mount on it just enough for the diff to slide in. You can WD40 the bushing to make it slippery. when you go tighten everything up, it will close the mount back to spec, as long as you tighten to spec. There shouldn't be any binding......

 

ur trouble codes r probably from ur vacuum lines not hooked right.follow the vac. diagram sticker on your hood, and if you don't have one, borrow 92's from his thread, I believe they should be the same. I glanced through 92's thread per lumpy's sugg. and could have sworn I saw one, just don't rem. what page........

 

of course, if that is alright with you 92..... I feel like I am hijacking this thread, I'll just sit back now and resume my wallflower status................

 

look from the beginning...i rmeember OLHARLEMAN posting a pic....otherwise there's the FSM

 

Stepside your not hijacking anything...good info there. If you see some of my postings on 92's thread...now that's hijacking. Then again I think he hijacked his own thread a few times as well.

 

Oh for God's sake, my thread is like textbook A.D.D.

you can't hijack this thread unless you start posting pics of sunflowers or spiders and ask what size gears if i have a 22re w/ 31's and it tuesday etc...etc..etc...

as long as you are being helpful, that's all that matters.....if you feel guilty, go to my thread and post as much as you want....it's nice and cozy and like a man-cave over there......

 

Was like Dang War and Peace. loved it.

 

Stepside you are the man! I'm gonna work tomorrow and I'll let you guys know whats up. The rest of you guys are hilarious. I'm really excited to get back on the road again. Hopefully everything is ok since my dad is coming and he wants to go to the other side of the island...

 

see if these help.....

 

I've got an '88 4Runner SR5 with a 22RE and just replaced the timing chain and all the smaller vacuum hoses. I'm not sure I'm clear on the question. Do you want the attachment points for the 2 small vacuum lines coming off the first and the second VSVs on the top of the driver's side of the valve cover?

After re-reading your post I've got it now.

The Red VSV ---looking from the front of the engine,
the front small vacuum hose is very long (guessing ~2 to 2.5 feet) looping up and behind the manifold (fits into 2nd slot in plastic clip with 3 other lines behind top rear of manifold), then drops down and loops forward to attach to a small (but larger, see below) flying saucer-like device at the bottom rear of manifold under the last 2 flutes going to the rear fuel injectors. The attachment port comes out parallel to the top of the saucer-like device, pointing downward and a little backward.
the rear small vacuum hose is approx 8" long, has an orange and black check valve and attaches to the bottom port of a round device with 3 ports. The round device is the last thing bolted to the driver's side of the manifold, immediately behind the power brake booster vacuum line attachment.

The Blue VSV----looking from the front of the engine,
the front small vacuum tube is about 8" long and goes to the top front port on the small black round device behind the power braker booster vacuum line referred to in the attachment for the rear vacuum tube of the red VSV.
the rear small vacuum tube is long, ~18". It loops behind the rear of the manifold and fits in 3rd slot of the plastic clip which also holds the front vacuum line of the red VSV. It then drops down and attaches to a smaller flying saucer-like device midway down and behind the rear flute for the fuel injector (Your 2nd picture in post #259). The attachment port comes straight out of the top of the saucer.

 

Thanks for the help 92 and petdoc. I'm gonna eat some grub and get to working.

 

dude, your thanks is welcome. just pay it forward. i've had so much help with my stuff that i feel i owe it to provide whatever info / insight i have. i know you will do the same.

 

crossmember is proving to be a real inhibitor of progress. I moved the diff out of the way but still no can. I can get the side closest to the diff cradle in but it's the side furthest away (driver side) that I can't get on. It's like something is blocking it. I'm out of pateince and I'm going to sears to buy a 2lbs sledge or something to drive that mother$&#% in! Unless someone has a trick up their sleeves.

 

2lb sledge is how I got mine out and i predict how i will get it back in too.

just don't hit that pan for God's sake.

 

can you get a long 2x4 or something to put some leverage on it?

 

my plan is to get some long landscaping nails and hope that they are a smaller diameter than the holes and one by one try to hit each hole to essentially pin it into place. the crossmember came off (for me) after the front bolt on the diff, so in the reverse order it will go back on. i wouldn't recommend using any of the bolts to pin it because you will probably crush threads.

 

do you have your top 2 mounts on yet? the 2 big circular things that are attached to the frame.

 

I removed all the mounting bolts for the diff. It's just hanging out.. out of the way. I just picked up a 2.5 lbs sledge, punch and 19mm 3/8 socket. Removing those diff mounting bolts with a breaker bar is an absolute pain in the a$$

 

Finally I am almost done! I got the front crossmember on. It was much easier with this:


For the record: Front crossmember installation requires a BFH. No other way, period.

Once I got the crossmember on I had the daunting task of putting the front diff mount into the cradle. I tried hitting the BFH against a 2x4 on the diff. Worked for a couple CMs. I tried direct contact, chickened out. Then a stroke of genius hit me.




TADAA!!


For the record: To reinstall the front diff mount into the cradle: One must acquire 3 spare tires and the factory toyota bottle jack. Place one tire against the rear tire, one in the middle, the last positioned in front of the front diff. Start cranking slowly, and check progress. I didn't have to used the leverage attachment. Ghetto but works.

I feel like now I have contributed to the forum.

Current Problems:
- I have a miss that doesn't stop. Regardless of rpm. vacuum leak?
-- I'm gonna change the cap and rotor since they are worn. While waiting for an answer haha.

- I'm still getting the check engine light. It comes on after I pass the 2000rpm mark. I think it's the same code 52. I was reading someone's thread about it, only difference is their truck is a 3VZ
-- Any takes? Possible wrong knock sensor?

Besides that the truck is running and has some fresh new blood (toyota red coolant, Super crazy expensive (liquid platinum))