Another 88 rebuild/questions thread (in Hawaii)
#282
almost forgot, try adjusting your timing, and then reset your comp......also,you need to put lock tight(red) on your cross member bolts, that is how they came from the factory, which is why you had a hell of a time getting them off........
#284
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From: Currently Hilo Hawaii, Saipan 670 Is Home
Hey guys initial report: the truck runs but not like a top. It has a miss that doesn't go away. I tried playing with the timing but to no avail. I don' think there are any cracks in the air tube and I got all the vac lines squared away. Do you think think there might be a leak where the two intake manifolds meet? I think I left the old gasket on.
Second problem: The truck feels really sluggish. Like I can hold the gas down and the truck revs but hardly picks up like it used to. I have a feeling it's the knock sensor since the check engine light only goes on when I pass 2K rpms. I also have a feeling it might be the tps. I don't wanna think that since I didn't touch it during the rebuild. Is there a way to test it without the ohm meter? I think this code 51 or 52. I have both.
Help me out guys! I gotta the thing running straight before my Dad comes to visit this saturday.
Second problem: The truck feels really sluggish. Like I can hold the gas down and the truck revs but hardly picks up like it used to. I have a feeling it's the knock sensor since the check engine light only goes on when I pass 2K rpms. I also have a feeling it might be the tps. I don't wanna think that since I didn't touch it during the rebuild. Is there a way to test it without the ohm meter? I think this code 51 or 52. I have both.
Help me out guys! I gotta the thing running straight before my Dad comes to visit this saturday.
#286
Well as far as the miss it could be a few things...Plug, cap, rotor, vac leak, or the gasket that was left on instead of being removed.
As far as the sluggishness yes that could very well be the knock sensor. That's the way mine acted when it went, well it ended up being the wiring but all the same. 52 is the knock sensor.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
As far as the sluggishness yes that could very well be the knock sensor. That's the way mine acted when it went, well it ended up being the wiring but all the same. 52 is the knock sensor.
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/
#288
#289
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From: Currently Hilo Hawaii, Saipan 670 Is Home
I might have to buy another one. I think mine is yellow one with the red trim. Do you think my tps is messed up too? I can tell that if I'm good with the throttle it acts ok but if I like floor it fast it bog down and stuff. I'm vague since i'm about to go to lab. Thanks guys
#290
rog., you seem to be dead set on your knock sen. being the root of your prob. If that's the case, then just do what you need to do to fix it and move on bro, when all is said and done and you are still having trouble, at least you will have peace of mind that it isn't your knock sen. My thought is if it wasn't bad to begin with, and you didn't do anything to it during your rebuild, then I don't see how it could've gone bad, make sense to you?? But ultimately, only you know what you did to your ride, so go with your gut and let us know the out come. Process of elimination is the route you need to take to track down and eliminate your gremlins, good luck, we'll be waiting for the out come and we'll go from there..............
#291
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From: Currently Hilo Hawaii, Saipan 670 Is Home
No bro I broke the original knock sensor in half when I was pulling the head off. I'm starting to think the TPS is jacked up too. It's really sluggish when I pass 2k RPM and the check engine light comes on. I can floor it and it just bogs down, but if it's gradual increase it's bad but not as bad. I have like no power.
#292
ok rog., lets crack open a cold one and get to work on this!! First, I wasn't aware of the broke knock sen. Second, why would you think your TPS is jacked, did you damage that also, loosen it to adjust it, what?????Why??? Have you gone over all your wiring to check for cracks, frays, cuts, shorts, loose, burnt.....etc....? Your timing, did the motor respond when you adjusted the dist.?? What about your valves, did you make any adjustments to those when you took the head off?? During reassemble, did you align all your timing marks, crank sprocket, cam sprocket,main link on chain, did you align those on TDC on the intake stroke (very important)??? You say the motor is running, pull the plugs and see if they are saturated. When you installed your distributor, did you align the rotor with the num. one tower on the cap?? Is the housing sitting flush on the head,is the adj, bolt centered so you have room to advance or retard timing?? are your plug wires good, in the correct firing order?? Your valves, did you mess with them, did you adj. them in any way shape or form, did you take a feeler gauge to them, it's possible you could be loosing comp., hence the sluggishness. Time for another beer. Now with all that crossed off, time to move to your sensors.
#293
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From: Currently Hilo Hawaii, Saipan 670 Is Home
Thanks prim. from the top
- I didn't touch the tps at all. Reason I think it's tps is cause I'll pass 2krpm and then the the check engine light comes on and the throttle is really picky. If I like hit ~2.1-2.7krpm it bogs down really bad but if i floor it, it sorta responds. Pretty much any sudden hit of the throttle causes it to bog.
- I haven't done all the wires yet but I will today.
- the dist reponds to extreme difference in timing (one side to another) but small stuff not really.
- valves left the same
- I'm pretty sure the timing sprockets and chain links are aligned. I think I checked like 3 times before assembly
- TDC of the intake stroke is 1st cyl TDC with crank timing at 0 degrees yeah?
- Plugs look good but I've noticed excess gas consumption.
- When I installed the dist, I did the 4crawler trick where you put it at 12 o clock and then it turns to counter clockwise to the #1 tower. Atleast it looked like it.
- housing is flush and there is room to adjust
- wires are correct with brand new cap and rotor (40 bucks!!)
-never touched the valves
-- I'm gonna go over this with a fine tooth comb for as long as I can. Otherwise dad is gotta keep the revs below 2k haha!
Oh yeah and I'm gonna try to get the big v6 brakes on. I'll do a little write up or something.
- I didn't touch the tps at all. Reason I think it's tps is cause I'll pass 2krpm and then the the check engine light comes on and the throttle is really picky. If I like hit ~2.1-2.7krpm it bogs down really bad but if i floor it, it sorta responds. Pretty much any sudden hit of the throttle causes it to bog.
- I haven't done all the wires yet but I will today.
- the dist reponds to extreme difference in timing (one side to another) but small stuff not really.
- valves left the same
- I'm pretty sure the timing sprockets and chain links are aligned. I think I checked like 3 times before assembly
- TDC of the intake stroke is 1st cyl TDC with crank timing at 0 degrees yeah?
- Plugs look good but I've noticed excess gas consumption.
- When I installed the dist, I did the 4crawler trick where you put it at 12 o clock and then it turns to counter clockwise to the #1 tower. Atleast it looked like it.
- housing is flush and there is room to adjust
- wires are correct with brand new cap and rotor (40 bucks!!)
-never touched the valves
-- I'm gonna go over this with a fine tooth comb for as long as I can. Otherwise dad is gotta keep the revs below 2k haha!
Oh yeah and I'm gonna try to get the big v6 brakes on. I'll do a little write up or something.
Last edited by rogerman; Apr 10, 2010 at 02:59 PM.
#294
Saturation on your plugs is a sign that your timing may be off(plugs not firing when they should). TDC on the num.1 cyl. @ 0 degrees is right, BUT, you still need to visually make sure your CAM intake lobe is opening the INTAKE valve and not the exhaust valve. Because your cam sprocket dots may be aligned, BUT, they can be aligned with exhaust valve open. Have you checked your MAF sens. wires?? I've had instances of cust. pulling on the wires and disconnecting it without knowing it because the plug boot is covering it, usually happens during disassembly. You don't need to take the boot or the plug off, just push it back in. Push the individual wires back into the plug itself also. Now for your brakes, just be prepared to do some trimming/grinding, use some loc-tite on the caliper bolts, and bleed furthest from the master cyl. first. If you change your master, bench bleed it first, before you install.
#296
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From: Currently Hilo Hawaii, Saipan 670 Is Home
I'll check the timing and maf tomorrow. Maybe it's off by a tooth? But would that yeild a check engine light after 2000 rpm??
How do you test the knock sensor? I have no idea bro
How do you test the knock sensor? I have no idea bro
#298
your MAF will throw a CEL, saturated plugs can be from timing. To test your knock sens.,(it may sound archaic, but it really works).Hook a 12v. power source w/a test light in series. With a metal tool,(screwdriver, pliers...) strike the sensor(not very hard mind you), if the test light lights up with every strike, then your sensor works. If not,well then, you have your answer. Do not hit the plastic piece, only the metal part of the sens.
#299
It's the knock sensor tossing the codes at 2K gotta get that straightened out first!!! It will make the truck really sluggish like it's starving or something. What it does is throw the timing wayyyyyyyyy off.
#300
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From: Currently Hilo Hawaii, Saipan 670 Is Home
hey guys back at it again. I haven't had time to work on my truck since my dad was here visiting. I've used 3/4 tank of gas in less than a week! this thing is using a whole lot of gas!
-Knock sensor: I think I might have ordered the wrong one. I think the one I ordered is meant for the earlier years. I'm looking at this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=350340192562
Let me know what you guys think.
As far as the miss, I haven't had the time to go over it. I'm hoping it's just me reusing the old upper/lower intake manifold gasket. If not then :/
-Knock sensor: I think I might have ordered the wrong one. I think the one I ordered is meant for the earlier years. I'm looking at this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=350340192562
Let me know what you guys think.
As far as the miss, I haven't had the time to go over it. I'm hoping it's just me reusing the old upper/lower intake manifold gasket. If not then :/


