I just recently bought a 88 pickup 4wd with th 22re in it. The brake and charge light was flashing and now it stays on I've read a lot of posts everyone poi ts to the alternator when checking with a volt meter I have 13 volts off and 14.5 when the motor is running seems like the alternator is working to me. Also the oil pressure guage, volt guage, and fuel guage do not work. I've had to fix some other electrical issues on the truck because the last guy thought that duct tape is just as good as a butt splice. Any info is appreciated thanks.

 

Duct tape is most likely better then a poor butt splice.

Your warning lights might be on because the alternator may be over charging you did test it with all the electrical loads on lights, blower motor on high etc

Remember the lights come on if the charging system is under charging or over charging.

some vehicles are just more sensitive then others

Your meter might be a little on the high side hard to tell.

One just needs to work through one circuit at a time.

Might be as simple as poor grounds and corroded connections .

 

The brake light is "supposed" to come on with low brake fluid. (It often shows up in pairs with the alt light, but I'm not sure why.) Check that you have brake fluid, and if you do, use your multimeter to check that the switch is working (push the float down with your finger).

Kudos for STARTING with a voltage reading before asking for help.
Words to live by.

 

Toyota used charge light and brake light to get your attention !!!

Charge light comes on people figure no big deal brake warning light comes on you might check things out .

Back in the old Carb days you could run the voltage pretty low till the coil lost output.

Now with the EFI computers it only need drop to about 11.5 VDC before the ECU shuts down.

I learned this lesson the hard way!!!!

 

OP said Which ONE light stays on?
Or do THEY both stay on?

In case of charging system fault, both brake and charge light come on.
In case of brake system fault, only the brake light comes on.


Second that.

 

Electrical could be several problems. I am going by what I have seen a few times in the past. With your gauges not working, it sounds as if the Engine fuse is blown. The Reverse light plug if not mounted correctly can rub the insulation off and short causng the fuse to blow. It does not take much at all to expose the wire. The three times I have seen it, it was at the top of the connector. When you pull the connector out of its holder, the sleeve may slip down and cover the bare wire. Slide it back up and see if there is a bare spot.

It is located on the drivers side. It is just a guess but a freebie check. Could be a poor design by Toyota. I have removed hundreds of butthead connectors. I suggest solder, heat shrink, and then wrap with electrical tape.

 

I like that Butt head connectors

If the wiring has been modified in a not good way no telling just what problems the O P is dealing with.

 

Thanks for the info so far guys I had the alternator checked out today it checked good. Both lights still stay on I've checked for grounds I haven't found anything yet. I'll have to check the reverse light plug tomorrow its getting chilly outside right now.

 

Yes, looks like this.

 

Well I've checked the engine fuse and the wiring harness it all checks out fine

 

These are theoretical possibilities:
Your battery is good? If it has a dead cell (theoretically an internal short?), it might be overloading your alternator so latter is struggling to keep charging voltage up?

And you're sure you don't have issues with brake system, e-brake switch, brake fluid level switch?
Charge light is ONLY SUPPOSED to come on with charging problem but IF a diode in dash light system is shorted, a brake issue could also make charge light come on.