stb94tsi

these are just some final questions i have before i go forward with my lift on my 94 runner with 33x12.5 bfg muds, so any links to threads, quick tips, or things to look for would be great.
first, i have a quick question about what size ball-joint spacer to use??? 1.5" or 2.5" spacer kit.
second, i will be getting a set of fj80 springs, but also wanted to know if i should use the back or front set of springs off a fj80???
also i will need shocks with up to 4" of lift correct....
and where to get rear brake line extions...

thanks

2DoorRunner

There is a couple links in my signature about bj spacers. It will tell you what you need.

And as for the fj80 coils. Use the REAR coils.
And for shocks, take a couple quick measurements to be sure you dont get ones that are to short or too long.

And dont forget about the panhard drop bracket.

rattlewagon

You can get the break line extensions ant any auto parts store.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Think you might find that there is often no difference:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...cer.shtml#FAQ2

clydehatchet

assuming you have a 2nd gen 4runner. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-155339/

xxxtreme22r

from 4crawler's website:

An interesting thing to note is that some vendors are advertising ball joint spacers as a 2" (or even 2-1/2") lift option. While that is true, realize that the spacer itself is likely to be only 1.5" tall and any additional lift is accomplished via the torsion bars. 4Crawler Offroad has chosen to advertise the spacer by it's inherent height rather than some arbitrary height.

And on a side note, why are ball joint spacers taller than 1.5" not made?? Because putting a spacer that tall would cause the angle on the front CV joints to be very steep at full suspension droop. Even at 1.5", you need to be sure and run stock height bump stops to limit the suspension's down travel to a safe level. It was found that most IFS front ends would start to bind with a 2" spacer installed, so the maximum height was backed off to a more reliable 1.5" height. Even so, owing to CV joint manufacturing variations, there are cases of CV joints that just show signs of binding at full droop with the 1.5" spacers. In this case, an easy fix is to install a front differential drop kit to lower the front diff and lower the angle on the front CV joints. So what would be the point of making a 2" ball joint spacer that would likely cause almost every set of CV joints to bind up at full droop? Also, tie rod end angles get steeper as the spacer height is increased as well as hitting the limits of adjustment on the front suspension alignment cams (this applies to 2WD and 4WD applications). So, 1.5" is the tallest practical spacer height that works well for most vehicles.

clydehatchet

x2. good post xxxtreme. also consider panhard bar drop bracket, for the articulation on the rear will be limited after taller springs are installed. these are basically 'build your own lift kit'. once you buy the bj spacers and the rear springs, you need to include other items that somewhat counter act the negative effects of the lift. such as idler arm brace, possibly front diff drop, panhard bar drop bracket, shocks, and to aid in the longevity of your cv's, a manual hub conversion.

xxxtreme22r

forgot to mention drop pitman arm too possibly.

clydehatchet

and since we are totally redoing your front end, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ng-sfa-217670/
or you could just SAS it.

stb94tsi

wow thanks for all the info guys.... yes clydehatchet it is a 2nd gen runner ("my 94 runner") and i have read through the old 15 page lift guide, but i just needed some specific questions answered that wasn't to clear on the lift guide..
yes I'm going to get a pan-hard drop bracket, thanks for the reminder though, and clarifying witch fj80 springs go with(2doorrunner), the guy at T.A.P. recycling said to use the front ones but i swear i read that a couple of people use the rears..
i am going to just order the 1.5 spacer from 4crawler also the pan-hard bracket.
but i haven't found too much on the front diff drop, i would really like some more info on that..
so this is my list so far
1.5 spacers
fj80 REAR coils
pan-hard drop bracket
rear brake line extensions(thanks RE-RE)
front diff drop????
downey truss?????
drop pitman arm??????
i have rancho rs5000 shocks already, might need new ones?????

2DoorRunner

He said use the front ones because 3rd gen 4runners use the front coils in the rear, and 2nd gens use the rear coils in the rear.

Diff drop is from 4crawler too. I would suggest you just remove the front sway bar though, so no need for the sway bar drop brackets.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml

clydehatchet

i have the 1.5'' bj spacers, but i didnt get the fj springs. i got the OME 901 coils. so i cant tell you to get the fj springs, i can only recommend the OME's, which i am very pleased with.

conrad

I'm also using the OME rear spring setup and I'm real happy with it. I would highly recommend the diff drop, I'm using it and have had no issues whatsoever. Before I installed it my CV's would bind up at full droop - I'm using the 1.5" BJ spacers. Panhard drop is a must as well, my pinion angle was trash and i was getting shudder in 1st gear until I installed the panhard bar.

I blew my idler arm quickly after some light wheeling running 33x12.50's. Got a new idler arm and a NWOR idler arm brace. Although NWOR is not the best company ever, they are the only place making one unless you can find a used Downey one out there somewhere. Another option is the TC Idler Arm, but it's around $300.

I didn't have to drop my pitman arm. I've never heard of anyone doing it with the BJ spacers alone. I did use an OME steering stabilizer (OME SD33), and that helped out with the feedback from the 33's.

Check out my build thread, it's in my signature. Quite a few pictures of how I did it. Oh and don't forget you'll need an alignment asap after install.

Good luck!